Service at 76,000 miles, as you can see from the pictures under the bonnet is not the best so in need of a clean. Possible small leak from somewhere too I need to investigate later.
- Difficulty Level:
Engine Oil Drain
Firstly after knowing the engine was warm I drained the oil, this was done by lifting the front of the car via the central jacking point. There is one bolt in the middle of the splash guard that allows access to the oil drain bolt.
Remember there is almost 6 liters of oil in there so unless draining into a large drum you will need a couple of containers to capture up to 6 liters.
Once draining I lowered the car and left the engine to drain while did the other jobs.
Next was the oil filter, this is situated to the left of the engine at the front. I used an oil filter removal cup type tool, it would be a pain to try and do it with the strap type. You unscrew the cap and when free from the threads pull the cap upwards and this should pull the filter body and the filter out with it.
The filter is a paper cartridge filter and just pulls off the body, there are 3 O-rings attached to the filter body which need replacing and come with the filter (Genuine Honda used). I used a small screw driver to lift them out of their groves.
Smear engine oil on the new O-rings, this will help get them on and also helps with the seal when fitted. You then just push fit the new filter.
Once re-assembled, you just push the whole assembly back into where it came from, I soaked up some surplus old oil first to help avoid old/new contamination.
You then tighten the filter cap back on to 25N.m, which the nice Honda man has clearly put on the filter cap to let you know.
Next I tackled the fuel filter; this is situated at the back of the engine bay on the right-hand side behind the air filter box. You need to remove the whole pump/filter assembly to do this job and also you will need to remove the air filter box completely to gain access to it.
To remove the air filter box there is 1 screw at the bottom front of the box and 2 push fit tabs which hold it in place at the back; it’s a bit tight but can be removed without removing the battery if you loosen some of the obstructing cables etc. You will need to disconnect the air flow connector block and the 2 air intake pipes from the front and back of the air box, the air pipe at the back is held in place by a ring jubilee type fitting and the front is just a push it.
Once the air filter box is removed, you now need to unclip 2 wire connector blokes from the filter and 2 fuel pipes. I colour marked the cables and pipes with their connecting points to assure they were re-connected correctly.
To remove the pump/filter assembly there are 2 x 10mm nuts holding it to the bulk head, you can gain access to these from the left-hand side of the filter. You will need a long socket extension to reach them, I put a bit of grease in the socket so that the nuts stay held in the socket once loosened. Once bolt nuts are undone you just pull the assembly off the fixed retaining bolts.
You need to remove the pump/ filter from the body which holds it to the bulk head, to do this there are 2 x 10mm bolts holding a cover over the top which needs removing, this gives you access to 2 bolts which holds the pump/filter in the body. Once removed you now have access to the filter.
I put the pump body in a vice using rag so as not to mark it, using large plumbers grips and I removed the electrical part from the bottom of the filter which unscrews, place a suitable container underneath to catch surplus fuel. I then used a filter strap to unscrew the filter from the pump body.
When fitting the new filter smear engine oil on the O-ring in the filter to help with the seal and also helps next time you want to unscrew it, assembly is reverse of above.
Once all back together it’s just a case of bolting the assembly back to the bulk head and reconnecting the 2 pipes and wire connecting blocks to their respective colours.
Once all connected you need to pump the fuel bulb to bleed the fuel through the system again, this is situated to the left of the filter. Once the filter is full and primed the bulb will feel hard, there is a bleed bolt but once the filter is back in place it is ney on impossible to gain access to it. I just revisited and re-pumped the bulb several times before starting the car.
The car will start but may stall or run bit rough for a couple of seconds but mine soon picked up and has run fine since doing it this way - PLEASE NOTE THAT IF FOLLOWING PROCEDURE AS WRITTEN, NOT TO START THE ENGINE UNTIL YOU HAVE REFILLED THE ENGINE WITH OIL!
Excellent guide here curtasy of @DieselPower Guides - Removing Fuel Filter
Air Filter was next, so while the air filter box was out for access to the fuel filter I changed this out of the vehicle.
There are 4 screw bolts to loosen the filter box lid, these are captive bolts so will not pull all the way out. Once loosened you just lift the lid which is hinged at the back and remove the filter and replace with new, make sure to clean out any of leafs and dirt before fitting new filter.
To refit the air filter box you locate the 2 O-Rings at the back of the air filter box over the 2 begs situated just below the fuel filter assembly. Push down firmly on the box and then replace the bolt at the front to secure the sir filter box into place, then re-attach the 2 x air intake pipes and air flow connector block.
Engine Oil Re-fill
I now went back to filling the Engine with oil, I cleaned around the drain area and cover first and then re-fitted the drain bolt using a new sump plug washer, the oil drain bolt torque’s up to 39 N.m and the oil drain cover once re-fitted torques up to 9.8 N.m.
Once bolt is in place it’s just a case of filling the engine with oil, with a filter change this is approx 5.9 Liters of oil. I chose to use Castrol Edge Titanium 0W/30.
Run the engine up to normal operating temp and then turn off and leave for 5 mins and check the level on the dipstick, add oil if required.
Next I checked the brakes and flushed new brake fluid through to bleed the brakes (sorry no pics L), I loosened both front wheel nuts and lift the car from the front using the central jacking point, with help from my dad we flushed new fluid through by depressing the brake peddle 30 times each calliper while using a one way bleed pipe, make sure you keep checking and filling the reservoir so you do not run dry and get air into the system.
We repeated this for the back brakes; luckily no issues and the pads have plenty of wear left on them.
Wheels nuts torque to 108 N.m