Many 7 Gen ICTDI owners will, at some point, need to replace their fuel filter. This is a fuel filter 'how to' for the pre-facelift ICTDI.
Small flat head screw driver
10mm sockets (1/4 and 1/2 inch) + extension bars and ratchets
10mm ratchet spanner (a must if you are loosening the filter clamp from above the engine)
Time: This took me 2 hours of messing around figuring it out. But, if you are prepared and focussed, you could probably complete the job in an hour.
People on the forum always say this: Make sure you use a Genuine Honda Fuel Filter.
I was always a bit dubious about this, as how could two Bosch fuel filters for the same car be different?
Well... the photo below shows two fuel filters. The smaller one is a 3 month old filter, supplied by Euro Car Parts, said to be correct for the car. It fitted, the car ran, but under load the engine would cut out and record the 'low fuel pressure' error codes.
The larger filter was supplied (at a very reasonable price) by Holdcroft Honda. My theory is the larger filter has a greater filtration surface area and hence can support a higher flow rate, which is required when the engine is running at high revs/full boost under load.
First steps (no pictures).
Disconnect the battery to protect any sensors/circuits (negative removed first, then positive). Remove the battery and plastic engine cover to help with clearance.
You will need to remove the airbox for clearance. Using the screwdriver to lift the clip, unplug the MAF sensor then remove the 2x 10mm bolts holding the airbox down.
If the jubilee clip holding near the MAF does not have a mark showing where to tighten the clip too, make a mark to prevent over-tightening, then fully loosen the clip.
You will need to gently pry off the intake pipe and the cold inlet pipe from the bottom of the airbox, then pull the airbox free (the locating lug will give some resistance, pointed out by the arrow below.
Once the airbox is out of the way, remove the hand pump cover.
Now you have a little more access, unclipping the green clip, and removing the fuel heater will provide a little extra clearance. Best done before you unclip the hand pump from it's holder.
Gently pull out the hand pump from the holder and remove by unscrewing the bolts.
Once the holder is gone, make a mental note of which pipe is which and remove them from the filter. Tucks the pipes out of the way.
Now the next photo shows the holder without the filter to highlight where the 'clamp' is loosened from. Access to the 10mm bolt is restricted. Some people access this from underneath the car, but you can use the ratchet spanner to slowly loosen this bolt. The movements are very very slight but you will get there! The ratchet spanner makes this much much easier (I couldn't find a comfortable position for a ratchet and socket).
Once you have loosened the bolt enough, the filter will move. However you will find it tricky to remove.
To aid removal, loosen the bolt to the left of the filter till you can tilt the holder and pull the filter out.
Now swap out the filter!
Once the new filter is clamped in place, reattach the fuel pipes as they first were. The output from the filter sits as shown in the photo below (highlighted red). Make sure the bungs are seated neatly in the clamps around the filter. The feed to the filter is the shorter pipe.
Once attached - follow the reverse of the removal (except do not cover the hand pump!). Note, the locator bung below that the airbox will need to sit into.
Once everything is back in place you will need to prime the pump/bleed the filter. Pump the hand pump till it goes hard, then loosen the 10mm bolt to release the air/bubbles, then tighten the bolt back up. Repeat this process (I had to repeat 5 or 6 times) till no air/bubbles come out and only gorgeous diesel fuel exits the bolt hole . Tighten the bleed nut and replace the pump and cover.
Clean up, pack up and you should be good to go!