Disclaimer: I'm not in any way qualified and I haven't got any decent mechanical experience, I've probably not followed best practices, consider this thread a "learner's experience". Seriously, listening to me might make pixies explode from your exhaust.
Earlier today I received my Injen Intake kit from the USA after 12 days from ordering, if you're interested in my reasoning behind choosing this particular intake, or where I ordered it from, take a look here.
I battled the rain this afternoon with soggy clothes, because I'm an impatient bugger. Here's my experience of the installation, I'll later up-date the thread with a stock comparison video, then again for a full review once I've had a few days to play and make loud noises.
Let's start with the box:
First thing I noticed when grabbing it from the postie, the box was scarily light - and huge considering the minimal parts inside. I could see the box had been resealed by customs after an inspection.
Everything was tightly packed inside despite the inspection, each item was wrapped in clear plastic and tucked into paper padding.
The complete set, the instruction booklet (attached below for your convenience) comes with a parts list that matched everything perfectly.
Guess it's time to get removing the factory air box and resonator:
My engine bay's a little poorly, there's a few bolts rusting and some numpty stuck in a Halford's battery. This is our starting point. I went ahead and removed the bitch clips from the shroud covering the grill/headlights in preparation for dropping the bumper later.
I also took the liberty of jacking the car up with the standard spare wheel jack, axle stand in place as a failsafe. This isn't strictly needed but did actually come in handy later on.
Injen Guide: Step 1
First off, removing the air intake duct. Untighten the circular clamp holding the intake tube against the throttle body, either with a crosshead screwdriver or a spanner/ratchet. Gently remove the sensor by twisting slightly as you pull.
Injen Guide: Step 1
For me, the screw sheared straight in half. This gave me great hope for the rest of the install. My throttle body's starting to get some carbon build-up again.
Injen Guide: Steps 2
Next loosen the screw next to the fuse box to loosen the air box. The tube down to the resonator can be pried free with a flat head screwdriver if you struggle. Pull out the injector breather line and the CCV box.
The air box and tubing to the throttle body/resonator can now be completely removed.
Injen Guide: Step 3
Injen Guide: Steps 4 / 5
In order to get the resonator out, I needed to drop the bumper. I won't go into too much detail as you can find out more precise instructions here. However it basically involves removing any bitch clips and screws for the grill, part of the wheel arch, and under the bumper lip. My car's missing so many trim bits and clips it's hardly applicable.
Injen Guide: Steps 4 / 5
Now we're free to remove the resonator, you can ignore the HID ballast box in the first picture, it was being repositioned. The second bolt, rusted to high hell, nearly caused a premature on-set of dementia. It was a while before I got that sorted.
Amidst the saga if the rusty nut, a DPD delivery guy came, proceeded to tell me his car history starting at age 17, and then it started pelting it down. I'm unsure whether this was a good or a bad thing given the timing. Suffice to say, things got very icky from there on out.
Don't do this. This is what happens when a bolt is seized, it's raining, and a lake full of WD-40 doesn't work. Also, I removed the passenger side wheel to carry out my barbarianism. Good job I jacked the car right?
Injen Guide: Steps 6 / 7
Completely ignore the guide and don't even bother removing the battery and tray, in no way is it needed.
Injen Guide: Steps 8 / 9
By this point, soaked, battling the dark and in a general rush my own pictures aren't quite so concise. As the guide depicts well, remove the PCV hard pipe and coolant hoses at 4 points.
Injen Guide: Step 10
Connect the small coolant hose that was disconnected from the PVC hard pipe to the coolant outlet port on the throttle body.
Injen Guide: Step 11
If you followed my advice and didn't remove the battery, Step 11 in the guide can be done at this point in the order. I did this right at the end.
Injen Guide: Step 12
Connect the 71cm 45 degree tube with a clamp and tighten till the point where there's still some movement for adjustment as you go along.
Injen Guide: Steps 13 /14
Connect the primary intake pipe to the 45 degree tube and loosely tighten again with a metal clamp.
Injen Guide: Step 15
If you removed the battery, ignore this step. If you left it in place, screw one of the rubber mounts into the battery clamp and then the primary intake pipe bracket.
Injen Guide: Steps 16 - 18
Install the rubber grommet into the large bored out hole on the farside of the intake. Plug in the sensor you disconnected earlier from the throttle body, followed by the injector breather line into the long port.
Injen Guide: Step 19
Insert the 2" CCV hose over the large port by the fuse box and loosely fasten with 2 small circular clamps.
Injen Guide: Steps 20 - 22
Insert the metal pipe coupler into the crank case hose, press the top end of CCV case into it, connect the large port on the CCV case into the CCV hose and fasten.
Injen Guide: Step 23
Press the 3.5" hose over the exposed end of the primary intake pipe and loosely fasten.
Injen Guide: Steps 24 - 27
Screw a rubber mount into the hole by the resontator opening. Connect the secondary intake pipe to the primary via the 3.5" hose and fasten clamp, then screw the rubber mount into the secondary intake pipe bracket. At this point you can go about making sure every pipe/clamp is sitting at the best angle possible and tighten completely.
Injen Guide: Steps 28 - 30
Finally, push the cone filter into the bottom of the secondary intake pipe by where the resonator previously sat, and clamp. All done, my final shot was just before I resat a few bits and tightened everything once again. As you can tell, it had gotten a little bit dark by that point!
I'll be adding an Injen Hydroshield Pre-Filter (X-1034BLK) to the set-up once it arrives in a few days, as we all know it gets a little bit wet in Britain at times.
The after video was filmed the following day once it was dry and light.
I'll leave my full impressions of the kit until I've had a better chance to test the car out. I will say there's some extremely positive results. I'll likely revisit and tweak a few bits on the guide.
The optional Injen Hydroshield which matches the filter for our intake kit (X-1034BLK) just arrived today.
Just a small little package, went through the letterbox without a signature.
The Hydroshield pre-filter literally just wraps around the existing filter. The material has a slick, slightly reflective and almost waxy surface that stretches slightly with a pull. Blowing through the material you can feel that there's very little resistance / air restriction.
As I've tried to demonstrate above, the material beads water much like a waxed/sealed paint surface. I do find there is one huge design flaw with the Hydroshield, if the elastic opening at the top were made all of an inch longer, I could have sealed the whole thing under the metal clamp for peace of mind. There's not much to say in the way of installation, pull off the filter, add the pre-filter, reattach. If you have nimble hands I'm sure you could get it on without removing the existing filter.
Effect on driving? None, the sound is no different, nor the performance.
The area surrounding the filter got pretty wet during the install, again today pulling back my wheel trim things were pretty soggy. Small droplets won't water-log your engine, but they certainly don't do it any good. When it comes to big puddles, under spray or even snow you could face a problem.
Good purchase? Definitely, this is Britain after all.