Rear Wheel Bearing Replacement on Honda Jazz GD

Honda Jazz (FIT) 02-08

  1. legend-ary
    Difficulty Level:
    I finally couldn't stand it any more and decided to replace the rear wheel bearing on my 2003 Honda Jazz.

    Disclaimer: I know to a lot of people this will look quite crude and I would agree but this DIY was done in tight constraints of time, budget and tools. Wheel bearing is a critical part so don't cut corners and make sure its tightened properly.. As this was my first time just to double check I got mine checked from a garage and all was deemed ok.

    Honda Jazz GD 2002-2004 with Rear Drums (with out without ABS) but can be used for 2004-2008 ones with rear discs as long as you buy the correct part.

    Parts Required:

    For me the part number was #PFKL580897 (I used eBay special, already replaced nearside with one and has been fine for 6 months)

    It is not handed so you can use it on either side. Please make sure to get the correct bearing for your car. There are three versions:
    Rear Drum No ABS, Rear Drum with ABS (Mine), Rear Disc with ABS.

    Tools Required:
    * M8x1.25
    bolts (Got them from Screwfix, required for opening the drum up)
    * 30mm socket (usually comes for 1/2" drive)
    * 1/2" Breaker Bar (the nut is tightened to 162nm so you have no hope if you don't have one)
    * Hammer
    * Narrow Chisel
    (to open the dust cap, raise the indented nut and put indent if using a new nut)
    * Axle Stands (recommended, not essential)

    This diagram summarizes the process well. Rest of the description is just a real world elaboration of the process.

    Step 1
    Put the car in gear and chock the wheels up as you will be lifting the rear up. Release the handbrake. Undo wheel nuts and put the car on Jack/Jack Stands. 1.JPG

    Step 2

    You will come face to face with the wheel hub. As I said, this was done on a car with drum brakes, but can be used as a general guide for cars with Discs as the wheel bearing part is pretty similar.

    Step 3

    If you haven't done your brakes for a while, the drum will be pretty stuck and if like me you don't like to hammer it, there is a solution!

    See those two holes on the face of the drum? These are you salvation

    Step 4
    Clean the muck inside them and carefully thread M8 bolts into each. You need to take it nice and slow and switch between tightening each until the drum pulls out.. Don't tighten one more than the other.. patience is key.

    Step 5

    13mm socket fits just fine.

    Step 6
    You will see the drum coming off the backing plate. Put the socket aside and just pull it off by hand.. might need some wriggling but it will simply slide off.

    Step 7
    Drum off, you can now see the wheel bearing assembly/hub.

    Step 8
    Behind this dust cover is the 30mm nut which is holding the whole thing in place. Because of all the grime you might not be able to see where the dust cover ends, the red arrow points to the narrow gap you need to carefully attack.

    Step 9
    I used a flat head screwdriver with metal back as it was meant to be hammered, if you use plastic ones they will split.

    Step 10
    A few hammers later it will start to come apart. You need to make sure you keep rotating the hub so you undo it from all sides and not just one.

    Step 11
    Once the dust cover is off you will see the 30mm nut holding the hub in place. The yellow is where the indent is. 12.JPG

    Step 12
    You need to lift the indent up before you can start undoing the nut. This is where I got stuck so make sure you have the right sized screwdriver with metal back or chisel before you go ahead.

    Step 13
    At this point, I stopped taking photos and started my epic struggle to undo the nut. It is on pretty damn tight (162nm to be precise) so unless you have a breaker bar, you have NO HOPE! Because I didn't have axle stands, at this point I put the wheel back on (without drum) and put the car back on the ground and then used the breaker bar to open the nut up.. this way there is no chance of car dropping off jack and you can put as much force as you want. Once undone you can jack the car back up and take the wheel off..

    oh and don't buy cheap tools/

    Step 14
    Anyways once nut is off, the hub just slides out.
    15. 15a.

    Step 15
    Simply slide the new hub/bearing on. Re-tighten the nut to 160nm if you have a torque wrench or pretty damn freaking tight if you don't. Some dealers say you can re-use the nut, other say always use a new nut. I went for old one for now but will replace it with new one sometime later.
    Step 16
    Make sure to put an indent if the old indent doesn't align.

    Step 17,18,19
    Put the dust cover back on. (sorry no pics as my break was about to end.)
    Slide the drum back on.. yes it will just sit like that as the wheel holds it in place until it freezes in place by rust and stuff..
    Put the wheel back on and go for a drive and enjoy the peace.

    Special thanks to TG from ClubJazz for providing necessary info that enabled me to take on the task.
    AndyB1976, K24 CL9 GUY and Ichiban like this.

Recent Reviews

  1. K24 CL9 GUY
    K24 CL9 GUY
    Wish there was one for the front on an Accord as going to give it a go myself but this will help thanks :-)
  2. RogerH69
    Great guide and job well done
  3. SpeedyGee
    Great guide @legend-ary !

    One point to note though, when doing "heavy" jobs likes this, a proper jack and stands are a must ! There's danger of that scissor jack toppling over.
    1. legend-ary
      Author's Response
      I had to put the car down before undoing the nut, afterwards I lifted it back and took off the hub.