Engine & Gearbox 2.2 CTDi Exhaust Manifold Change

Discussion in '7th Generation (2003-2008) [Acura TSX]' started by f1ack2, Sunday 23rd Sep, 2012.

  1. f1ack2 New Member Getting Started

    I have a 54 Plate 2.2 CTDi and it appears the exhaust manifold has cracked. The car has done 155k miles, but when I drove it yesterday I smelt fumes, on opening the bonnet I could smell fumes from the rear of the engine. The question is has anyone attempted to change the manifold themselves? It looks fairly straight forward, just lots of pipes to disconnect to get to the manifold. I can't seem to find a workshop manual for the car on the internet to download.

    Any help appreciated.
  2. Jon_G Guest

    Hi and welcome to the club! When you have a few spare minutes, it would be good if you introduce yourself here: Introduce Yourself • Honda Karma

    This problem is fairly common, but - due to the "Honda Happiness" 7 year/125k mile extended warranty on the exhaust manifold - not many owners have had to do this themselves... I haven't, so can't offer any real advice.

    If it's any consolation, mine emits fumes when cold. It's been doing it for a long time and I don't think it's got any worse.
  3. f1ack2 New Member Getting Started

    I replaced the cracked manifold on Saturday, it is actually a very straight forward job. I bought the complete kit from Honda including all the nuts and gaskets. It was interesting how many changes there were from original spec to the new kit. The main one being the new manifold is a single piece cast iron unit rather than a two piece unit welded together. Also a lot of the gaskets were metal rather than paper, and copper rather than plastic. If you are going to attempt this give yourself a full day and take your time. Here are the general steps that you need to take.

    1. Drain the cooling system
    2. Remove the plastic engine cover
    3. Remove the front section of the exhaust
    4. Remove the turbo oil feed and return pipe
    5. Remove the intake pipe and the pipe to the intercooler
    6. Unbolt the actuator
    7. Remove the manifold heat shield
    8. Unbolt the turbo water feed and unclip the water return
    9. Unbolt the turbo and remove (be warned it is quite heavy)
    10. Unbolt the manifold and remove

    Refitting is a reversal of removal. Space is a bit limited, but it is easily doable with a socket set and a couple of extension bars. As most of the work is under the car you will need axle stands so you can crawl under the car.

    I hope this helps someone who might consider doing this themselves.
    squeezes, Primarycare and Ichiban like this.
  4. Ichiban Founder Staff Team

    England CJ Leeds
    Could you do a step by step DIY that provided you did take pictures of the job?
  5. f1ack2 New Member Getting Started

    I didn't take pictures (as I was very oily), however it is easy to see what you are doing if you follow the steps above. As you take one bit off you can see the next bit you need to do. It took me all day, but that is partly because I wasn't rushing, and partly because I recently broke my collar bone and I haven't got the full strength back in my arm yet
    Ichiban likes this.
  6. SayamaAccord Top Contributor ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆

    Great job, and thanks for the write-up.
  7. AccordCU2 Premium Member Club Supporter

    That is some serious DIY,well done.:GoodJob:
  8. Doc Expert Advisor ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

    Matt Peterborough
    Were the nuts holding the exhaust manifold on very rusty. Snapping rusty studs would always be my biggest concern doing this job.
  9. Jon_G Guest

    Nice one... thanks for the details!
  10. f1ack2 New Member Getting Started

    No none of the bolts were rusty at all, some of the studs came out of the head, but a stud extractor got the old nuts off, and new nuts were included in the kit.