Daily Driver 2003 CR-V 2.0 Petrol

2nd Generation (2002-2006) vehicle added by ourmark, Sunday 1st Feb, 2015

  1. ourmark Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Mark Otley
    29
    9
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  2. Nels Moderator Staff Team

    Good to see you breezing through the jobs. :Niceone:
     
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  3. ourmark Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Mark Otley
    29
    9
    I've got the head unit fitted now which is great, but I miss the clock:

    20150308-e01.

    And also took a general photo of the car:

    20150308-e02.
     
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  4. SpeedyGee Administrator Staff Team

    England Speedy Birmingham
    14,999
    5,593
    4
    Looking good Mark :Thumbup:
     
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  5. ourmark Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Mark Otley
    29
    9
    Thanks, guys

    Jobs to do:

    Adjust boot door striker plate (boot open light flickers on uphill bumps)
    Switch tyres front to back to even out wear and improve handling (feels a little twitchy, as if the back end wants to go faster)
    Replace OS headlamp washer
     
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  6. ourmark Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Mark Otley
    29
    9
    It looks like the boot open light was from the window hatch rather than the boot door itself. I've lubricated the lock and haven't seen the light since, but I'll give it a while longer before I decide it's fixed.

    I swapped the tyres around so that the fronts have most tread. The front wheels needed a mallet to shift them so I'm glad I found that out today rather than when I got a puncture. Copper grease on the edge of the hub will keep them free. I also upped the front pressures a bit, as they seem to carry more weight and I wanted the rolling diameter to be at least as much as the rears. The car handles great now.

    While I had the wheels off, I bled the front brakes, but one nipple rounded off under my 10mm brake spanner. I was able to hammer a 3/8" socket on and get it turned that way, but it was so stiff that I had to do the same to tighten it up again, so not the best bleeding procedure. Still, brakes feel fine. I might fit stainless steel bleed nipples if I can figure out what thread size / pitch I need.
     
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  7. ourmark Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Mark Otley
    29
    9
    Note to myself (and any other weirdos with an interest in stainless bleed nipples).

    From looking at parts for sale and what specs are listed, it looks like the front calipers take M10x1.0 bleed nipples and the rears M10x1.25.

    CCS Fasteners sell both sizes for £3.50 each.

    So there you go. Another job to do!
     
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  8. Raf_75 Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Raf York
    28
    4
    That's one thing that I find annoying, I like to see which radio station it's on while the wife likes the clock. First car I've seen that relies on the radio for the clock lol

    I've had the driver's door switch stick once, only noticed due to no lights on warning, hasn't done it since I wiggled it lol. I've just noticed that the door open warning light on the dash only comes on with the ignition is that normal?
     
  9. ourmark Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Mark Otley
    29
    9
    Yeah that's normal, although the interior light should operate (depending on whether it's set to come on) even with the ignition off.

    The door switches are really easy to get off and on again, but if a quick wiggle has it working then that's even easier!
     
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  10. Raf_75 Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Raf York
    28
    4
    Interior lights work fine, doesn't help when its on a timer tho, on my old car I used to check the passengers had closed their doors properly before getting out lol
     
  11. ourmark Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Mark Otley
    29
    9
    An impromptu round-up of my experience of various oils in the PG1 gearbox:

    Honda MTF-3 is the manufacturer's recommended oil and will set you back about £11 per litre:

    0826799902HE_LRG.

    Let's give the Honda oil a score of 10/10 for starters.

    I'd expect it to be good for that money, but what options are there for a cheapskate like me?

    It says in the owner's manual that 10w40 engine oil will do in a pinch, so I tried some Triple QX 10w40 I had lying around:

    521776011.

    You can pick this up for £15-20 / 5L so it's £3 a litre. Less than a third of the price of Honda oil.

    The bad news is that the oil performs badly. Gear changes are slow and occasionally missed entirely. There is a noticeable increase in noise. I give it just 3/10.

    Next up is Millers Trident 10w40 which claims to comply with MTF-94, probably due to some extra additives:

    trident_10w40.

    This stuff is about £30 for 5L so £6 a litre. About 2/3 the price of Honda oii.

    It's better than the vanilla 10w40, but still has some drawbacks. Changing 1st - 2nd is particularly awkward and makes for a slightly clunky drive. I'd give it 6/10 which is par for the course.

    Finally, after a bit more reading, I have decided to try Triple QX 75w80:

    $(KGrHqN,!rUFJ!Hi5Yh2BSWFL0,N5!~~60_12.JPG

    This costs about £7 per litre, but 5L containers are also available and may work out a bit cheaper than this.

    I haven't yet tried it, as it only arrived today but I'll let you know.
     
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  12. Nels Moderator Staff Team

    Did you have these oils already or have you bought them for this test?
     
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  13. SpeedyGee Administrator Staff Team

    England Speedy Birmingham
    14,999
    5,593
    4
    Highly ill advised to use motor oil in a gearbox, they are totally different in nature. The motor oil in a gearbox will froth and cause over heating.

    Honda gearboxes need thinner gear oil which is why they developed their own gearbox oil. I would stick with Honda MTF. It's not worth worrying about a few £s difference.

    Out of everything that you have listed the Triple QX 75w80 is next best thing after the Honda MTF.
     
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  14. ourmark Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Mark Otley
    29
    9
    The Triple QX 75w80 has been in for just over a week now and it's OK. Not brilliant, as first to second is still a little notchy, but it's way better than any of the 10w40 options. I'd give it a 7 or 8 out of 10.
     
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  15. ourmark Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Mark Otley
    29
    9
    Headlight haze removed with T-cut today.

    Nearside top view before:

    20150413-e01.

    Nearside top view after:

    20150413-e05.

    Nearside front view before:

    20150413-e02.

    Nearside front view after:

    20150413-e06.

    Offside top view before:

    20150413-e03.

    Offside tip view after:

    20150413-e07.

    Offside front view before:

    20150413-e04.

    Offside front view after:

    20150413-e08.
     
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  16. Nels Moderator Staff Team

    That's much better Mark. :GoodJob:
    Well worth the time and effort.
    Did you do that by hand?
     
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  17. ourmark Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Mark Otley
    29
    9
    Thanks, Nels

    I started doing it by hand but then remembered that I have an electric polisher. So that made it a lot easier.

    I wouldn't say the lights are perfect now, but it was certainly worth an hour of my time!
     
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  18. Nels Moderator Staff Team

    You've hade a huge difference. Now it's just one of those jobs you can chip away as time permits until it's how you want it.
     
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  19. Raf_75 Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Raf York
    28
    4
    What sort of T cut did you use? Was it a headlight restorer kit? Mine are the same as your before pics.
    Can't belive the difference you've made!
     
  20. ourmark Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Mark Otley
    29
    9
    It was just what I had lying around. T-cut for metallic paint.

    Anything mildly abrasive will do but probably a good idea to test on a small area before going over the whole thing.
     
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