I did a clutch change on a 2005 EU8 Civic 1.6 last weekend, thought I'd document the process for all to see. I'll start by saying that this is pretty big job, it can be done as a DIY task but you will need lots of clearance under the car. Luckily I have some handy ramps that help me out here. These allow me to work safely under the car and give lots of ground clearance. I did this job totally on my own but ideally it should be a two man job. Remember that safety should always be paramount. Tools, what tools do you need ? Can I just answer that with "Lots" ? I don't have a precise list of tools but I have the following to hand (and probably more) :- At least 2 sets of metric spanners, 3/8" Blue Point socket set, 1/2" Draper socket set, 1/2" impact set, a fair few 3/8" and 1/2" extension bars, breaker bars, low range and high range torque wrenches, impact gun, homemade compressor, screw driver set, pliers set, long nose plier set, crowbar. Two hydraulic jacks, two sets of stands, one 6 ton air/hyrdraulic jack. Clutch centering tool Anyway here goes, ramps setup :- Excuse the messy garage, it's been awhile since it's had a thorough clean. The patient arrives :- Mucky engine bay The car is jacked up and both wheels are removed, We need to get the drive shafts out, normally I'd crack the bottom ball joint so the hub assembly stays connected to the suspension leg and the whole leg pulls back but on these EU8s the bottom ball joint is an absolute pain to crack. So instead, in this case I decided to undo the to big bolts holding hub assembly to the suspension leg. Before you do this actually you need to unbolt the caliper and hang it up safely. Also you need to disconnect the ABS sensor, it has two small 10mm bolts securing it, unbolt these, pull the wire forward and you'll see the connector that can be unplugged. You also need to remove the big hub nut at the end of the drive shaft, that nut has a pinched/indented slot, get a pointed chisel and straighten this indent out. Now remove the nut, it needs a 32mm socket. I have decent air impact gun which makes light work of such bolts. If you don't have one of these, then I recommend removing this with the wheel on and car on the ground, centre wheel cap off and use a breaker bar with a long extension on it. Get someone to firmly push the foot brake, whilst you try and crack the nut. Once cracked you do the same on the other side and get the wheel back off and car jacked up again. End result is this :- Go under the car with a strong flat screwdriver, wedge the screw driver between the gearbox and the driveshaft and push the top of the screwdriver outwards. The driveshaft should un-click and start to come out. Push the hub assembly out of the way and remove the entire drive shaft. (Apologese for the fuzzy picture) With both drive shafts out, let's move to the engine bay. Remove the battery, battery tray and the battery holder plate, this has two bolts on top and two bolts underneath, which don't need removing entirely, just loosening. You may find the the battery holder plate is stuck down still after removing the top bolts and loosening the bottom two, the plates can sometime have some sealant under them, use a flat screw driver to pry the plate up. Removing this give you extra space to work. You also need to remove the entire air box, this has 5 bolts holding it in place, two at the back right connecting it to the air filter, onw towards the front right and two on the left hand side of it. Next, there is a clutch line bracket just above the back of the starter motor, undo the bolt for this. Next unbolt the clutch slave cylinder, first unclip the connector for the lambda sensor, so you can get to the two bolts. Remove these two bolts and tuck the slave cylinder out towards the offside headlight out of harms way. Next up lets tackle the gear linkage, remove to two lock pins from the gear linkage. To remove the two linkage cable from the gearbox, you can either pull off the two spring clips or remove the 3 bolts. I went for the three bolts as they were easier to get to.