Suspension, Steering and Brakes 2005 CR-V Brake issues.

Discussion in '2nd Generation (2002-2006)' started by Jason, Sunday 15th Feb, 2015.

  1. Jason New Member Getting Started

    jason
    3
    OK, Thanks for taking the time to read and I really really hope someone out there in the land of Karma can help me because my mechanic can't.

    Essentially the problem is just a spongy brake pedal, easy fix right?, wrong! Here's what I know so far. I have a 2005 CR-V, it's 2l petrol automatic. Last month the brake pedal sank to the floor a few times while holding the car at the lights, mechanic checked and as suspected the master cylinder had failed. The car has 105,000 miles on it so not unusual I guess. So master cylinder was replaced, now this is where I need your help, the brakes now work but the pedal is really really soft, more like an on/ off switch, 2/3 way down and I got nothing, a little more pressure and the wheels feel like they are about to lock up and the car comes to a rapid halt. Meanwhile there is almost no feeling through the pedal, it's just soft and squishy all the way to the floor, which it will go to however, I can hold it there all day long and the brakes won't come off so the master cylinder seems to be holding pressure.

    I know the guy didn't bleed the cylinder before he installed it (he said he never bothers doing that to any car and the pedal while soft was fine and anyway it's a 4x4 and they all do that) and the brakes were blead using the old two person pump method. I arranged to have the car checked by a different garage last week (won't be using the first guy again) and something rather strange happened (this is really why I need advice).

    A few days before the car was due to be looked at we got a snow storm, the weather was icy and the roads were frozen over, so the ABS activated a few times on the way to work, by the time I got there the brake pedal felt almost normal again WTF? I checked the car after work and found a small leak from the R/R calliper, took to garage and had them test the brakes, mechanic said they were fine and the pedal felt normal but that the caliper needed changing. This was done yesterday, got a call from the garage who said that despite changing the caliper the pedal has become soft and bleeding the system doesn't appear to be working. So what now?

    If there was air in the lines from the master cylinder being replaced (which I thought seemed plausible) why would a leaking rear caliper make the brake pedal return to normal?

    Could the master cylinder be the "wrong size"? The guy at the shop used a micrometer to measure the bore of the old one just to double check and the new one is identical in every way and is a "Blueprint" model not a cheap copy.

    How much air would need to be in the system to cause a pedal to get so soft? are we talking about a few bubbles or a whole lot?

    The mechanis thinks some air may have got into the system during the caliper work and found it's way up into some u-bend or other hard to reach place and has suggested a power bleed using a bleeding machine and also a cycle of the ABS. ?

    Could there be air in the ABS control unit? or air still trapped in the new master cylinder?

    This is driving me crazy and I am rapidly running out of patience, why is it so difficult to fix a flipping brake pedal!!!!!!!!!

    Oh yeah, the reason
     
  2. Ichiban Founder Staff Team

    England CJ Leeds
    30,098
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    You won't like to read this but its time you went to the experts or a Honda dealer what I have read these guys who have repaired the cars with pattern parts don't have a clue and a lot of guess work is being applied.

    A Honda dealer will pin point the fault in matter of hours and parts that just work and no measuring and wasting time.
     
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  3. Jason New Member Getting Started

    jason
    3
    True, I have no doubt that a Honda dealer would fix the issue but at what cost?

    The only reason I am hesitant is because from experience main dealers seem to be like KWIK FIT techs and can't/won't fix anything, just replace parts. Last summer the air-con stopped working (same car) took it to HONDA in CARDIFF. They had a look, said it was the condenser and quoted £584 for a new one. That was on a Friday and they couldn't do anything till the Tuesday as the parts were overnight delivery. I took a look over that weekend and found the joint between the high pressure line and its connection to the condenser was leaking. I unbolted the line and found the o-ring had perished, poped down to the motor factors and bought a seal kit for £6, fitted new o-ring and had the system recharged for £30, been ICE cold ever since. Honda clearly didn't even check the condenser and I would have been £550 pounds worse off if I had trusted their "expert opinion". So you can see why I they wern't my first port of call. I did go back to them and explained to the service manager what the problem actually was and asked him what he had to say about their quote. The reply was "well we couldn't see anything obvious and it's usually the condensers that fail, it would have had to have been done at some point anyway".

    But thanks for your reply, ill pop back down to Honda tomorrow (with some KY jelly) and wait for the proverbial f$%&*$g from the service manager.
     
  4. Ichiban Founder Staff Team

    England CJ Leeds
    30,098
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    I see your distrust it a viscous cycle when that sets in.
     
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  5. ourmark Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Mark Otley
    29
    9
    I'd say that the 2 person pump method is inadequate for clearing the lines after major work like that. It's too slow to force bubbles down to the bleed nipple faster than they rise up through the fluid.

    I use Draper's one-man bleed bottle which still relies on pumping the pedal, but has a one-way valve so the only limit on speed is how fast you can pump and how often you have to stop to fill the reservoir.

    I'd either go with their suggested pressure bleed, or try the Draper 37316 if you want to have a go yourself.
     
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