There are four of these links on the Accord, one near each wheel. They connect the anti-roll bar (also known as the stabiliser bar, or in the USA as the swaybar), to the lower suspension arm. The anti-roll bar provides stability to the car when cornering, by resisting roll into the corner. The links are about the size of a pen or a bit smaller, and they have a ball joint at each end allowing movement in multiple directions. They are found here on the vehicle: and look like this: [Insert diagram showing location and a pic of a droplink please bud!!] These links work hard and are unlikely to last the full life of the car. When they fail there is excess movement from the ball joint when pushed and pulled on inspection. This movement is unmistakeable and easy to spot. When failing, they also make bumping and creaking noises when the car passes over bumps, pulls away from standing, comes to a stop, or sometimes if someone gets in or out the car . The parts themselves cost around £50 each from Honda. Cheaper aftermarket replacements are available from as little as around £10 but may or may not be of questionable quality. They are supposed to be replaced in pairs. Removal involves undoing the two nuts attaching each end of the link to the anti-roll bar and the front lower arm respectively. However this is not as easy as it sounds. The first problem is that nuts are self-locking, so that they do not work loose from the considerable movement they encounter during use. This means there is a nylon ring on the top of the nut, which you are working against when taking the nut off. The second problem is that the threaded shaft coming out of the ball joint which the nut threads on to, spins when rotated! Honda’s answer is to have inserted a hex/Allen key hole at the base of the shaft, the idea being that the key prevents rotation when you take the nut off. This is not always sufficient, because the third problem is that the threads, the nut, and/or the hex key hole, can become clogged with dirt and corroded, making removal an ordeal. If this happens, the best way forward is to knock the main part of the link off from each shaft, using a cold chisel or other suitable instrument. The plastic underneath can be cut off with a craft knife, leaving the metal pin itself. [Pic of pin needed] The back of the pin can be gripped using Molegrips while the nut is turned with the spanner. Do this after cleaning the threads with a wire brush, and using plenty of WD40 or penetrating oil. If all else fails, some decent heat on the bolt will usually shift it. If you try this job yourself, make sure you have some spare change handy for the swearbox. And be ready to eat humble pie and get the garage to finish the job if you get stuck. You wouldn’t be the first, and you won’t be the last!