Engine & Gearbox 6th Generation Accord Oxygen / Lambda sensor

Discussion in '6th Generation (1997-2002)' started by SayamaAccord, Wednesday 9th Nov, 2011.

  1. SayamaAccord Top Contributor ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆

    This sensor monitors the unburned oxygen content in the exhaust gases and feeds the data back to the ECU (electronic control unit, or electronic brain) in the car, which uses the information to decide how much fuel to inject into the engine.

    When the car gets older the sensor can become faulty. Sometimes but not always, the yellow engine management light on the dashboard will illuminate to warn the driver of the problem. (It is always worth having the code read however, as this issue is often the reason the light illuminates, but will not always be!)

    If the sensor is defective the car may fail the emissions requirements of the MOT test and be refused a test pass certificate.

    There are two oxygen sensors on the 6th Generation Accord. It is usually the primary sensor which becomes faulty. On the 1.8 this is located on the exhaust underneath the vehicle, just before (i.e. nearer to the engine than) the catalytic converter. On the 2.0 it is located in the exhaust manifold situated between the engine itself and the radiator.

    As a temporary fix, an injection system cleaning fluid added to the fuel, such as Forte Gas Treatment, might assist.

    The Accord is very particular about replacement oxygen sensors. It likes the genuine Honda item manufactured by NGK but may not work with many cheaper aftermarket alternatives. If you are lucky you might find an NGK version on the internet for around £80, or a second hand one from a breakers, but otherwise a Honda main dealer will charge more like £200.
     
    Last edited: Friday 30th Dec, 2011
  2. hondream Senior Member ★ ★ ☆ ☆ ☆

    Simon Walsall
    238
    64
    Hi
    That's an awesome post.
    At what sort of mileage would you expect these sensors to start failing?
    Thanks
     
  3. Ichiban Founder Staff Team

    England CJ Leeds
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    Dependent on usage and if you don't get contaminated fuel with silicone, if you are lucky car anything between 80k-100k miles.Then there are some which never will need changing.

    Like everything else its the luck of the draw, with component life.
     
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  4. hondream Senior Member ★ ★ ☆ ☆ ☆

    Simon Walsall
    238
    64
    Thanks for the reply.
    When you say dependent on usage, do have any examples in mind?
    How can I avoid getting silicone in my fuel?
     
  5. Ichiban Founder Staff Team

    England CJ Leeds
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    you can't do a lot to to avoid silicone poisoning but avoid using supermarket fuels. The last major outbreak of that was purely down to supermarket fuels and people who had the fuel receipts could claim for damages.
     
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  6. Mike c Valued Contributor ★ ★ ★ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Mike Telford
    363
    121
    Mention was made of Forte , is this the advanced formula gas treatment?
    As both my wife's Jazz and my CR-V do low mileage and short journeys I have been advanced to use some of this in my fuel.
    I am told that this stuff helps to keep the Lamda sensors clean and working efficiently and the same applies to the whole of the fuel system.
    At around £10 per bottle ( only required every 6 months) this sounds like a good investment.
    Any users?
    Mike c
     
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  7. n3utr1n0 Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    UK
    57
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    i changed mine. 143 pounds, original denso sensor. check engine light no longer on. (requires obd2 reset)
     
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  8. synaesthesia Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    Nick Derby
    64
    £143? Just looking at doing mine now (on original, 120k miles) - not looking to spend any more than 30 notes!
     
  9. Ichiban Founder Staff Team

    England CJ Leeds
    30,130
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    30 quid :Rolf: good luck finding a new part bud.
     
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  10. synaesthesia Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    Nick Derby
    64
    Clearly it wouldn't be Honda :Grin: I doubt my car is worth that much!
    Looking at Bosch/NGK on mine. Will likely outlast the rest of it.
    On which note, I wonder what the differences are between the real el-cheapos (15-20 solder-it-yourself kits), the midrange (such as above, ngk/bosch) and the denso OEM parts? Electronically they carry out the same tasks, I can clearly understand what the electronic side does (it's just 1 and 0 so a 10 quid part can't differ from a 200 quid part) but the sensor bit is what interests me. Aware of the materials used, idley wondering what each type does, why its of a lesser quality etc.
     
    Last edited: Sunday 20th Oct, 2013
  11. Ichiban Founder Staff Team

    England CJ Leeds
    30,130
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    I will surprised you will be able to find a aftermarket sensor at 30 quid..then will this sensor be accurate? will your fuel consumption go up as this sensor cannot take accurate reading? will your CAT get fouled up ?etc etc?

    30 quid cheap sensor = long term potential losses ?

    genuine sensor = no nasty surprises.

    IIRC NGK do a sensor for the 6th Generation it approx 70 quid http://www.amazon.co.uk/NGK-Lambda-Oxygen-Sensor-Accord/dp/B00B1RWHTS
     
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  12. synaesthesia Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    Nick Derby
    64
    Aye, I can source those at 45-50 notes from most places. Local factor says 60. That's doable, and I reckon as that's about what my car is worth, it'll do :Smile: Doing some reading up on them at the moment, just having a genuine interest in how things work.
     
  13. n3utr1n0 Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    UK
    57
    4
    the problem with the lambda sensor is that this particular model is extremely fussy about the lambda. I read that many people changed the sensor with non OEM one and the problem persisted...

    I would have liked to have mine for 30 as well... but it wasn't meant to be... :Frown:
     
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  14. Duncan Mills New Member Getting Started

    Hi guys and girls I have a 2000 Accord, VTEC SE 1997cc.

    The engine management light came on and my code reader told me it was the Primary HO2S No 1 Heater system P1167. Being a cynical chap I checked this with another reader and got the same fault code.This was identified as the sensor towards the rear of the car close to the catalytic converter.

    I bought a brand new sensor . It was not cheap at £130. The make is Blue Print.

    The management light is still coming on with the same fault as before.

    I cleared the fault when I fitted the new sensor. What is now happening is that from cold the fault light will come on after about 1 to 2 minutes of the car idling on my drive. I can clear the code and it will not come back on unless I turn the engine off for about 30 minutes and then if I start it the code will come back again.

    It displays the normal symptoms of rough idling and a propensity to stall when approaching a junction etc.


    I fitted the sensor myself and so I know that I did not damage the wires etc.

    Any ideas?



    Duncan
     
  15. SpeedyGee Administrator Staff Team

    England Speedy Birmingham
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    Are you sure you replaced the correct lambda sensor ?

    Primary HO2S No 1, is the lambda sensor on the downpipe before the cat. You mentioned "to the rear of the car", that would the secondary lambda sensor.£130 sounds quite expensive. Didnt CJ say in one of his posts that a NGK one costs £70 ?
     
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  16. ScottyBoy Junior Member ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    I had the same problem. after 2 different types of sensors the problem did not go away. in the end I went and bought a genuine sensor which worked. I have been told that aftermarket sensors do not work which seems true in my case. the genuine 1 I think is a denso sensor and only those will work.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Also NGK ones didn't work for me, I think I payed £70 for a genuine denso one from Honda.
     
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  17. n3utr1n0 Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    UK
    57
    4
    just as stated up before your post , you need to buy original sensor. Denso is the brand you are looking for.
    All others are most likely to fail as the computer knows it s not an original one.


    denso one will cost you around 160 pounds.
     
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  18. ScottyBoy Junior Member ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    Sry I didn't buy mine at Honda I bought it from VTEC Direct and it was around £70, I had to swap the plugs over tho as they were different so a little cutting and soldering is needed, and to this day it is still working fine :Smile:
     
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  19. n3utr1n0 Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    UK
    57
    4
    Me neither , I bought mine from the internet. but denso one...

    Funny enough , I just ordered some ngk spark plugs the other day...
     
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  20. ScottyBoy Junior Member ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    I always go to VTEC Direct now for all my parts, only go to Honda as a last resort.
     
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