General 6th Generation cambelt change and automatic gearbox

Discussion in '6th Generation (1997-2002)' started by matt park, Sunday 21st Feb, 2016.

  1. matt park Senior Member ★ ★ ☆ ☆ ☆

    matt North London
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    I have a mate who is thinking of getting a 6th Generation accord and he has a few questions. If anyone can help that would be greatly appreciated.

    Can anyone tell me when a cambelt should be done on an automatic 2.0l 6th Generation? And roughly what it should cost to get done?
    And also, what are those automatic gearboxes like? Is there anything to look out for or are they fairly reliable?

    Cheers chaps

    Matt
     
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  2. SpeedyGee Administrator Staff Team

    England Speedy Birmingham
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  3. matt park Senior Member ★ ★ ☆ ☆ ☆

    matt North London
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    Speedy by name, speedy by nature. Thanks mate.
    Do you know anything about the auto gearboxes?
     
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  4. exec Premium Member Club Supporter

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    Every 72k miles to change but do it early for peace of mind, think its 6 years for date period.

    Gearboxes are generally ok, some of the autoboxes in that period were not upto usual Honda durability, but generally they are fine, easy to tell if a box is faulty though.
     
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  5. Harvey Expert Advisor ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

    As @exec says its 72k on the timing belt. I got mine done early from when I got the car, thing the total was about £270. I was under the impression that some autos suffered a little bit, mostly on the 2.3's but I could be wrong.
     
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  6. Chunkylover53 Expert Advisor ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

    Auto boxes are pretty reliable but I would recommend getting the ATF changed ASAP when your mate gets the car.
     
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  7. stuscrv Valued Contributor ★ ★ ★ ☆ ☆

    Spain stu lanzarote
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    I know how vital belt changes are but in my case I'm faced with a slight dilemma. With no service history whatsoever and mileage at 142k what do I do now ?
    A belt and water pump change would be I guess £300 minimum on a car that cost £600
    That with the added worry of serious corrosion underneath leads me to just hang on and hope for the best. I'll have it looked at in a few weeks when I'm back then decide to have the work done or just enjoy till December when motty runs out.
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    I don't want a repeat of what happened to my triumph vitesse, luckily the car in front stopped because when I shifted from 1st into 2nd it broke in half ! ! And that was with a so called MOT.
     
  8. exec Premium Member Club Supporter

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    You would defo want to change the belts if the last change date is unknown, water pump and tensioner isnt necessary on these cars in my opinion unless they are making noise.
     
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  9. stuscrv Valued Contributor ★ ★ ★ ☆ ☆

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    I seen many short cuts fail in the past ie tensioners failing new belts jumping off etc but admit don't know much re Honda engines. If and its a big if, the rest of the car was good I would probably have it done. I suppose its like you buying a car for 10k then spending 5k on a service.
     
  10. exec Premium Member Club Supporter

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    Yeh it can hard to justify spending money on an old car that isnt worth much, I guess it depends on how good the rest of the car is, if its all corroded everywhere, I wouldn't bother myself.
     
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  11. Harvey Expert Advisor ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

    I could argue the point some more.
    I purchased my car about 2 years ago. I paid £375 for it. I did know when the cam belt and balance belts where done, but only through a document from a dealership that had sold the car previously. However despite the fact that I had not spent much buying the car, I still went ahead and had the timing belts changed anyway. Because I did not want the engine to fail on me as a result of neglect. My car may not be worth much to most people, but this car is my baby and also my daily driver, so I want it to be reliable. It has gone through its last 2 MOT's with no real issues.

    The same thing applies to the tyres as well. Just because the car is "just an old Honda" doesn't mean that I should skimp on tyres, which I have not. Admittedly there are different brands front and rear but they are rated the same and have the same size and speed index (Fronts are Dunlop SP Sport Blue Response (195/60R15) and the rears are Goodyear Efficient Grip Performance (195/60R15).

    When I got the car it needed a new exhaust, new front and rear brakes and I found it needed some welding, all of which have been done and I absolutely love this car and it makes me WANT to have another HONDA again.
     
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  12. stuscrv Valued Contributor ★ ★ ★ ☆ ☆

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    Thanks for advice, she's all good on top, no rust but am peeved cos the first MOT I had it failed on rust so had it done £250 for everything including the test which I thought was cheap ( mates rates )
    Last test ( different place ) said it was getting bad although it passed. I just had the feeling they meant don't bring it back next year ! I'll ask them to put it on a ramp so I can poke around.
    Seems to be rotting under the side trim (cills) and in suspention areas so sounds terminal.
     
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  13. Harvey Expert Advisor ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

    Mate, I had my cills done on a couple of places. Only minor repairs it cost a total of £120 to have some patches done.
    I had a little bit of rot on the subframe, which was tiny and I've had that welded too. so all is good.
    It depends on whether they are trying to blag work out of you or not. The MOT station told me that they thought my car wouldn't last another couple of years, yes it has issues, but as long as it doesn't cost a fortune to maintain and you do things as you find them then come MOT time it should pass.

    That is the problem with a lot of people who drive older cars. They leave things until MOT time and then wander why they have a list as long as their arm of things to fix.
     
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  14. stuscrv Valued Contributor ★ ★ ★ ☆ ☆

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    Sure I understand the love of your car, I'm attached to mine but I think you would all think I'd lost it (even more !) If I did the list of known faults. Exhaust system and possibly cat shot. Clutch getting to end of its life. Problem when throttle released ( takes 3 secs to return to idle ) price of welding and price of belt change brake pipes corroded god knows what else, must be pushing 2k ! See nice ones with low miles on eBay for 1500/2000. Its moted till end of year so will see what transpires.
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    Well I sometimes don't have much choice, I'm here, the cars in London ! Will have a look when back in a few weeks. No worries re getting ripped off as mate owns garage although its 60 miles away.
    I'll see what he recons.
     
  15. Harvey Expert Advisor ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

    Whole exhaust system for mine (middle and back box ) was about 130 quid. A cat you can get for as little as 80 quid. Brake pipes, depends on how corroded, I had that for 3 years as an advisory on my astra. I just kept greasing them up each year.
    Throttle could be a sticky cable or a sticking butterfly valve in the throttle body, or the throttle body just needs cleaning.

    Timing belt I see as no more than 300 even at mates rates. Most of that you could probably do yourself over a weekend with hand tools.
     
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  16. stuscrv Valued Contributor ★ ★ ★ ☆ ☆

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    I was hoping that to. I've obviously checked cable, stripped the whole throttle body and cleaned everything it was clean anyway. I mentioned before this all started when I filled with ultimate before I took for MOT. Dealer told me NOT to use it . 1 I'm wasting my money and more worryingly it confuses the ECU because the burn time is different. Their words not mine.
     
  17. Harvey Expert Advisor ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

    The ECU is tuned to run on 95 RON, but I can't see what harm running 97 or 98 would do. I know lots of people who put premium fuel in cars that don't require it. As far as I am aware the higher the octane the lower the chance the fuel has of self ignition and more so relies on the spark from the plug to initiate a clean burn. And it has something to do with advancing the timing also.
     
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