Suspension, Steering and Brakes 7th Generation Tourer CM1 CM2 CN2 rear brake pad change

Discussion in '7th Generation (2003-2008) [Acura TSX]' started by Ichiban, Friday 12th Apr, 2013.

  1. Ichiban Founder Staff Team

    England CJ Leeds
    Safety points before you start working on brakes.

    Use the correct sockets and wrenches for the job and always use a torque wrench for all brake work. See master thread for torque settings. 7th & 8th Generation Honda Accord vital brakes information

    Frequent inhalation of brake pad dust, regardless of material composition, could be hazardous to your health.

    Avoid breathing dust particles.

    Never use an air hose or brush to clean brake assemblies. Use an appropriate vacuum cleaner (workshop grade only seen them in Japan) or aerosol based cleaners.

    Don’t use sharp screwdrivers when removing or handling the pin rubber boots.

    Use the correct grease for the job M77 for pads and pad retainers and silicone grease for pins don’t use any other grease. Under no circumstances should other types of grease be used especially copper slip grease as it accelerates corrosion due to chemical reactions between copper and steel.

    Raise the rear of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. 7th Generation Accord jacking up the car

    Thick gloves and eye protection if you are working with aerosol or power tools.

    Dust mask to protect you from brake dust, splatter and flying debris with the use of power tools.

    Loosen the wheel lug nuts on the two rear wheels, if you have locking wheel lugs you should have the key at hand.

    Remove the rear wheels remember which is left and the right wheel.

    AOCUK CM2 rear brake2.

    I put the lugs bolts back on the studs so I know where there are.

    Remove the flange bolt 12mm (A) while holding the pin (B) with a wrench being careful not to damage the pin boot, and pivot the calliper (C) up out of the way to visible see wear on pads see below for wear limit. Check the hose and pin boots for damage and deterioration. Pin boots with tear and cuts should be replaced.

    Top Tip
    Never let the calliper drop or hang off with the rubber hose pipe attached to it.
    Always support it with mini bungee cords and don't twist the rubber hose.
    Don't step on the brake pedal when the callipers are removed.
    Always get the hose back into its natural position.If you do not follow this the rubber hose will swell and will restrict the flow of brake fluid to the calliper causing poor braking and uneven pad wear.
    AOCUK CM2 rear brake2a.JPG

    Check the thickness of the inner pad (A) and outer pad (B). Do not include the thickness of the brake pad backing plate.
    Brake pad thickness:
    Standard: 9.0 mm (0.35 in.)
    Service limit: 1.6 mm (0.06 in.)

    AOCUK CM2 rear brake1.JPG AOCUK CM2 rear brake1a.

    If the brake pad thickness is less than the service limit, replace all the pads as a set.

    Remove the pad retainers (A).
    Clean the calliper thoroughly; remove any rust, and check for grooves and cracks.
    Check the brake disc for damage and cracks remove excessive rust on the outer circumference and any flaky rust formation.

    AOCUK CM2 rear brake3.JPG

    In this DIY I am removing the carriers to clean the slider pin carriers and to remove all traces of old grease. Remove the two 14mm bolts holding the carrier .
    AOCUK CM2 rear brake4.

    Once you have stripped the both wheel layout the entire gubbins according the side where they were removed from and thoroughly inspect all components for general wear, sign of fatigue and state of condition. This will give you an idea in the level of cleaning and what parts need changing.
    AOCUK CM2 rear brake5.
    Carrier pin slots soaked in WD40 for one hour and regularly agitated with cotton buds
    AOCUK CM2 rear brake6c. AOCUK CM2 rear brake6b. AOCUK CM2 rear brake6a. AOCUK CM2 rear brake6d. AOCUK CM2 rear brake6f. AOCUK CM2 rear brake6e.

    Now get all the brakes fasteners pin boots thoroughly cleaned clean all the thread pitches, top tip do not soak the rubber boots in any solvent they will expand and swell. Brake cleaner fluid is their biggest enemy keep them away from it.
    AOCUK CM2 rear brake7a. AOCUK CM2 rear brake7b. AOCUK CM2 rear brake7d. AOCUK CM2 rear brake7c. AOCUK CM2 rear brake7e.

    Cleaned carrier pins pictures don’t show how perfectly clean they are within, degreased and scarred up and masked for spray of sliver paint. You don’t have to paint them but mine are looking grubby.
    Insert AOCUK CM2 rear brake8a.

    Camera dead at this point.:Blushing::Blushing: battery discharged.

    This is a VERY IMPORTANT step when the paint has dried and cured get the rubber pin boots on the end with a collar goes into the pin slot. Insert a liberal amount of silicone grease into the boot and nothing else. Slide in the correct pin for the right slot. The one with central flat profile pin is the top one the all smooth rounded one is for the bottom pin. Pins in the wrong slot will result in faster and uneven pad wear. Get the pin up and down repeatedly to get the grease evenly distributed within and to check the pin operation. Check its compresses and decompresses cleanly and the rebound is on its own without any resistance. Whilst this is happening always keep an eye on the bottom of the boot to see it’s still clamped in it holder. It will take 4-5 goes to get this right the boot has a habit of coming out. To save the hassle of reinserting the boot back on, try releasing the air pressure from the top by pushing it from one side to release the vacuum pressure created in this air tight pin.. Once the pressure is reduced it works flawlessly. It took me one hour to get mine right..

    If this boot is not held on securely it WILL come out and it WILL contaminate the pin and leading to early seizing, rusting , pitting, scoring, poor brakes, poor disc life and pads life.. you get the picture. Don’t rush this job.
    Once this is done get the carriers back on their original side and nip the two 14mm bolts to the specified torque settings.

    Prepare the new pads grease up between the shims.#

    Apply Molykote M77 grease to the brake pad side of inner pad shim A, inner pad shim B both sides of outer pad shim (C), the back of pads (D), and the other areas indicated by the arrows. Wipe excess grease off the shims and brake pads. Contaminated brake discs or pads reduce stopping ability. Keep grease off the brake discs and pads.
    Install the brake pads and pad shims correctly. Install the brake pads with the wear indicators (E) on the inside.
    AOCUK CM2 rear brake11.JPG

    If you are reusing the brake pads, always reinstall the brake pads in their original positions to prevent a momentary loss of braking efficiency.The inner pad towards the piston how it’s made? see pictures belowThe outer pad has one shim and is also repeated with same attention to details.Put the made up pads to a side.
    Insert AOCUK CM2 rear brake9a. Insert AOCUK CM2 rear brake9c. Insert AOCUK CM2 rear brake9b. Insert AOCUK CM2 rear brake piston side m77. Insert AOCUK CM2 rear brake piston side m77 first shim. Insert AOCUK CM2 rear brake piston side m77 second shim. Insert AOCUK CM2 rear brake piston side m77 second shim greased.

    Get the pad retainers on the carrier get M77 on the retainers before you put them on

    AOCUK CM2 rear brake10.JPG

    Push in the piston with a wind back tool (A) so that the calliper will fit over the pads. Keep an eye on the brake fluid reservoir just in case. I use a dremle to clean up the piston and grease up the internals of the piston with silicone grease to stop corriosion.

    AOCUK CM2 rear brake12.JPG
    Put the calliper back on (B) down into position. Install the flange bolt (C), and tighten it to the specified torque while holding the pin 17mm open ended spanner (D) with a wrench being careful not to damage the pin boot.
    Start the engine press the brake pedal several times to make sure the brakes work, then test-drive the vehicle.
    NOTE: Engagement of the brake may require a greater pedal stroke immediately after the brake pads have been replaced as a set. Several applications of the brake pedal will restore the normal pedal stroke.

    After installation, check for leaks at hose and line joints or connections, and retighten if necessary.

    Install the rear wheels torque the lugs nuts to 108nm in a star formation and evenly.
    Enjoy your perfectly done rear brakes.

    all done 2. All done 1.

    Personal Note
    I have two tourer both are on original callipers original hoses this nonsense that tourer has poor calliper design they are prone to poor life and seizing is total nonsense. The boot pins are the key to the life of the calliper and the correct grease with correct practice and in handing the calliper once removed you will not induce damage which you can see. On major drawback calliper pin boots do not come as spare parts they come as a calliper overhaul seal kit and they are expensive:Blink:
    rayhoop likes this.
  2. vanderlei Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    nice one mate:GoodJob:
    Ichiban likes this.
  3. SpeedyGee Administrator Staff Team

    England Speedy Birmingham
    Top job and top write up as always Ceej !!

    Ichiban likes this.
  4. rayhoop Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    Keerat Amersham
    I don't have a tourer... but that is a quality write up!
    Ichiban likes this.
  5. Ichiban Founder Staff Team

    England CJ Leeds
    Thanks guys this is how I have been repairing the rear on my tourer for years and never had a issue! its all about good practices and techniques and following Honda practices.:Thumbup:

    One thing which I forgot to state since we live in very wet and damp country, the rear disc have a tendency to developing 3mm outer and 2mm inner rust line on the circumference.. see here.

    AOCUK CM2 rear brake2.

    if you are soft and gentle progressive braker the pads don't get in touch with this area despite the pads having the surface area to get in touch with this area.

    When I used to drive the car this rust was not there as I am late and heavy breaker,so when you replace the new pads these rust line cause a noise when you rotate the disc as they pads are new and flat they don't have a ridge on them.

    Just make sure you do some heavy braking once a month , do it safely on the roads. The pads will then use the entire braking surface on the discs.
  6. perfect pete New Member Getting Started

    thanks for all the info. just managed to replace the rear discs and pads myself, taking much the same time as the garage quoted, happy days.
    Ichiban likes this.
  7. Ichiban Founder Staff Team

    England CJ Leeds
    Glad the information was beneficial for you and the joy of doing it yourself and properly give you the reassurance.