1. Fordham1984 Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    I went to get my A/C re-gassed last weekend and it turned out there is a leak. Most common is the rad for the ac so I have replaced that today but are there any other places these leak, and is there anyway I can pressure test it before I got back to the AC recharge place.
     
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  2. Ichiban Founder Staff Team

    England CJ Leeds
    30,101
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    Prefix changed to HVAC
    - - - Updated - - -
    The leak can be anywhere all the joints , pipes drier....etc , soapy water and sponge will do the trick. Get the suds on all pipe and joints and see what happens it should show the leak.

    old school trick or you can go for the modern UV dye and light test.
     
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  3. Fordham1984 Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    How can I do the soapy water way if the system is not charged?
     
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  4. Ichiban Founder Staff Team

    England CJ Leeds
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    Then UV dye is the way forward when the guys do a vacuum they can inject the dye and with a UV light it will show up as clear as day.
     
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  5. Fordham1984 Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    Oh ok I will get them to do that.
     
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  6. stuscrv Valued Contributor ★ ★ ★ ☆ ☆

    Spain stu lanzarote
    463
    137
    Agree , can't advertise but have mine serviced every year in London for under £50 ( mobile ) as part of the service they always add a UV dye to the mix so detecting future leaks is easy. I now have such a leaj in the condenser so don't bother although found brand new one on eBay for £50.
     
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  7. Westman Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom John Kings Lynn
    47
    9
    I had a leak to a joint on the Condensor fixed and the aircon regassed with a uv marker last year.. The aircon doesn't seem to be as cold as it was .Is there a particular type of uv lamp to look for a leak?
    Thanks
    JR
     
  8. Ichiban Founder Staff Team

    England CJ Leeds
    30,101
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    One way of finding out aint it.
     
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  9. stuscrv Valued Contributor ★ ★ ★ ☆ ☆

    Spain stu lanzarote
    463
    137
    Yes the technician always uses a UV lamp to check for leaks. Mine is very slow and lasts about three or four months, the technician said Hondas are usually very good but as bumps nearly twenty I thought for the week or so a year you need it its not worth the outlay
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    Also changing the cabin filter made a world of difference to the power of the fan. Seen the topic on here before, its only a cheap paper filter which stops leaves twigs and insects being blown into the cab. I'm sure mine isn't as good as a pollen filter ( £5.00 ) if you think back to the cars of the past they managed without one at all .
     
  10. Fordham1984 Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    Well leaks been sorted and charged back up but it only gets cool and not cold, is this normal? How much gas should there be in the system? Mines a 2.4type s
     
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  11. jimjams Expert Advisor ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

    United Kingdom nobody zoned
    2,154
    1,225
    550 gms

    If it's not getting cold enough there are several possibilities, but rather than go through them, there is a self-diagnostic system for the aircon in the 7th Generation Accords.

    Try this and make a note of the readings for each "sensor"


    106455_SEA3E50K71100000000BBAT00_4.


    The only problem with using the diagnostic is that it uses the display at the top of the dash (where the "target" temperatures are normally displayed). So as you alter the "target" temperatures, which will/should affect the "air-mix" % values, you cannot actually see the "target" values.

    Thus, when the engine is warm and the compressor is kicking in and out, ramp the temperature all the way up by pressing the "up" button many times, then ramp the temperatures all the way down. You should see the "air-mix" % values changing at each push of the up/down buttons.

    Note that "sensor 9" is a "virtual" temperature and is a function of "target" temperature minus in-car temperature.

    Note also that you can drive the car with the aircon in the diagnostic mode, and the aircon will still function as normal (except you can't see the "target" temperature value).

    Basically, check the operation of each sensor, see how the values change according to relevant inputs ....in particular see if the the value for sensor 5 goes very cold when the compressor is running.
     
    Last edited: Monday 4th Jul, 2016
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  12. Fordham1984 Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    Well just been out and checked that self diagnostic. Sensor 1 sat at 30 no matter what, checked the sensor in the dash and it was covered in fluff. Sensor 5 only got down to 25 after a 20minute drive is that normal? The rest all seam to be working fine.
     
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  13. jimjams Expert Advisor ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

    United Kingdom nobody zoned
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    Sensor 1 might not be changing because the A/C is not cold (which Sensor 5 proves).

    1st thing in the morning check Sensor 1 without the engine running (or with it just started), its value should then be reasonably close to Sensor 2 (and Sensor 4 as well).

    Is the compressor definitely kicking in ?
    Is it on all the time ?
    Is the pollen filter blocked ?

    With the cmpressor running there are 3 possible reasons why the evaporator in the A/C is not cold
    1. faulty compressor
    2. low on gas (slow leak)
    3. perished condenser
     
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  14. Fordham1984 Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    Ok I will check again in the morning, I know there are no more leaks as I had the whole system checked and I have a new condenser on so that's good. The leak I had was on the fittings that go into the compressor( the rubber seals were damaged as if it had been put together badly) so the compressor might be bad :Frown:
     
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  15. Fordham1984 Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    This saga continues. I have replaced the compressor and had it re-gassed but now sensor 5 goes up in temp the place are redoing it on Saturday but how could it go up and not down??
     
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  16. jimjams Expert Advisor ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

    United Kingdom nobody zoned
    2,154
    1,225
    check that the valve on the heater matrix is closing, you can see it on the bulkhead at the back of the engine, it is only ever fully open or fully closed

    With target temperature set to HI the valve should be OPEN
    IMAG0555__open.


    With target temperature set to LO the valve should be CLOSED
    IMAG0556__closed.


    When sensor 5 was rising, it depends on what you set the target temperatures as to why it was rising. I assume that the reason is that the A/C is still not working for some reason, and with the valve on the heater matrix open, the evaporator will get warm. If the valve on the matrix is working properly make sure that, whenever you check the A/C, you put the target temperatures to LO (so that the heater matrix is not getting hot water from the engine).

    Next, check that the air mix flaps are working properly (sensors 6 and 7). As you ramp up the target temperatures from LO to HI, you should see the air mix % change on each sensor.

    Finally, if the heater matrix valve is working properly, and the air mix flaps as well, if sensor 5 is not going cold with the target temperature set to LO, then the compressor is still not working for some reason.

    Can you definitely hear the compressor coming on ?
    Is it on all the time ?
    Are you sure that there are no other leaks ?
    Are you sure that the replacement compressor is working properly ?
     
    Last edited: Thursday 28th Jul, 2016
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  17. Fordham1984 Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    Every thing does as it should do sensors 6&7 show change when you ramp up and down the target temps. The heater matrix valve is opening and closing correctly, you can hear the compressor come on and it stays on. They didn't detect any other leaks under the vacuums test and the compressor is brand new. The only thing the guy said when I booked it back in for Saturday was he think he put in 500gms I did then say it should be 550 but surely it would still kinda work.
     
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  18. jimjams Expert Advisor ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

    United Kingdom nobody zoned
    2,154
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    Well the compressor should not stay on all the time, it should be cycling on and off, but being on all the time is better then not being on at all.

    A vacuum test doesn't really find leaks, the difference between outside pressure and internal pressure under vacuum is less that 15 psi, but leaks usually occur around old seals when the system is under pressure (which can be as high as 15 Bar into the condenser).

    If the compressor was brand new (~£700 ?) then I agree that you should be able to rule that out, which suggests a leak elsewhere, maybe other seals ?

    I also think that it should work with 500 gms, best thing to do is to take it back and get them to remove what they put in, if it's less than they put it, then there's a leak in a high pressure part of the circuit.
     
    Last edited: Thursday 28th Jul, 2016
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