Suspension, Steering and Brakes A couple niggles, your advice

Discussion in '1st Generation (2004-2011)' started by Paulcornwall, Wednesday 11th Feb, 2015.

  1. Paulcornwall Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Paul Penzance
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    I changed the rear brake pads a few hundred miles ago, one of the calipers was a bugger to push back in but I managed it. Recently I've felt something holding the car back and tonight felt the rear wheel - it was quite warm. I'm assuming the caliper is sticking, has anyone had much experience of this ??
    Also...I have noticed the engine need a longer than usual crank to start, am I looking at a crank sensor? Thanks guys , thinks it's time I join the club.
     
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  2. moob Valued Contributor ★ ★ ★ ☆ ☆

    Scotland Rob Glasgow
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    Caliper failure is unfortunately pretty common with Honda. If the discs are seriously hot you can bet it's seized.

    I'm guessing yours is a diesel, get your battery checked. It may need a new one, thread on here with batteries around 40 quid, genuine Honda.
     
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  3. SpeedyGee Administrator Staff Team

    England Speedy Birmingham
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    Calipers ceasing is common problem. The caliper/s if ceased will need a full rebuild or replacement with a new or refurbished one/s.

    Engine taking longer to crank could be a number of things, including spark plugs, condition of battery, starter motor, earthing etc.

    Please add your car to the Club Garage, this helps us to help you in that we can immediately see what variant of car you have.
     
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  4. Paulcornwall Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Paul Penzance
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    Caliper rebuild / replacement seems expensive. I'm assuming difficulty in pushing the caliper back in at pad replacement is an indication of a seized/ing caliper? Will get a few pics in the garage.
     
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  5. moob Valued Contributor ★ ★ ★ ☆ ☆

    Scotland Rob Glasgow
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    Around 90 quid via part trade in.
     
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  6. SpeedyGee Administrator Staff Team

    England Speedy Birmingham
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    Yes, it is.
     
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  7. Paulcornwall Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Paul Penzance
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    Any recommendations where I should get the replacement?
    - - - Updated - - -
    My car is a 2l petrol manual. Cranking problem is intermittent so I'm sure its not the battery. No other electrical niggles indicating an earthing problem. Feels like a crank sensor, as the engine runs smooth as once started.
     
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  8. Beefy Expert Advisor ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

    United Kingdom Stoke
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    doubt a crank sensor. not replaced one yet on an FR-V regardless of engine/age. get your battery checked and that there is no current drain as your priority. I assume you fitted the pads and they are free in the sliders (you didn't have to force them in? did you use copper slip and how much did you put on? depending on how worn the pads were before replaced, you will find the further the piston is pushed out, over time at near full extension they do become difiicult the wind/push back in. depends how much difficulty you had but its not uncommon for them to seize. it sounds like you may not have the experience to take on a caliper re-furb. I would not recommend anyone trying this job unless an experienced mechanic. you will be better to take the option purchasing a re-furb caliper. if you do have someone fit new or carry out the re-build on your calipers, the cost of labour to strip down and new seal kit/brake fluid on top its cheaper to fit a new/re-con
     
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  9. Bones126 Top Contributor ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆

    England Dave Birmingham
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    Personally, if you are having a reoccurring problem with the calliper it may be that the piston is suffering from corrosion causing it to stick in which case it will be also damaging the seals etc. As @Beefy suggests, it will be less hassle, less time consuming and sometimes works out cheaper to replace the calliper with a refurb after all the running around for parts etc. Job done, calliper off, calliper on, bleed :Smile: No further work required :Niceone:
     
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  10. Paulcornwall Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Paul Penzance
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    thanks guys appreciate all your suggestions and help. @Beefy when I installed the new pads the old ones were on the metal, so the piston was fully extended. Was extremely difficult to push back despite using a caliper wind back tool. The other caliber went back much easier in comparison. The alloy wheel is warm after a drive so I assume theres quite significant heat transfer from the caliper.
    Before I go ahead and order a replacement caliper, should I try anything else? or does this seem a clear case of ceased caliper?

    In regards to the car taking longer to crank on intermittent occasions, if the problem was the battery wouldn't this happen all the time? thanks guys.
     
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  11. Paulcornwall Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Paul Penzance
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    Been out on the drive this afternoon to have another look at this caliper. I jacked the car up and as suspected the wheel won't rotate. So I took the caliper off and rewound the piston, which again took some effort. I placed a smear of copper grease on the upper and lower parts of the rear pad. I then reassembled and took it for a short drive - again I could immediately feel resistance and within 1/2 mile the copper grease was burning off. So I need a replacement caliper. How easy is this job? Should I just pay the garage? thoughts please?
     
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  12. Beefy Expert Advisor ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

    United Kingdom Stoke
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    throwing it out there I think you may have a sticking A/C relay causing a drain on the battery? could be a multitude of issues. does the engine turn over at a normal speed but just keeps cranking or is it a case of struggling to crank like the battery is dead? I assume its the latter. if its doing it intermittently it could be the A/C relay sticking intermittently causing a drain? needs checking over, idealy by a garage that knows what there dealing with. joe blogs motors wouldn't know about the a.c relay sticking being a common fault or any other Honda common faults for that matter. do you have a multimeter?

    if the wheel spun free after freeing the caliper off and re-grease the pads but then after a short drive was seized again its either the caliper or flexi hose to it. I've not come across flexi hose problems on an FR-V. a safe bet is with the caliper.
     
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  13. Paulcornwall Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Paul Penzance
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    Thanks Beefy always good to have any possible suggestions. I've just dropped the car to my local garage for the caliber to be done, all in less than £200 so I guess thats reasonable. In regards to battery I tested it yesterday and seems to pass voltage checks for both stand alone and cranking. When it does take a little time to crank it does sound like normal speed, dosent seem to slow as you would expect from a duff battery. When I called the local Honda Garage yesterday the parts guy said it probably the battery as the crank sensor would place the check engine light on? really?. Beefy would like to know more about testing the A/C relay if this is still a possibility.
     
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  14. Princepugh Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom David Sheffield
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    Re the intermittent cranking problem, another possibility is that you've got a bit of leak-down in one of your injectors which is reducing the pressure in the fuel rail. This might manifest itself more on warm/cold starts so I'd be mindful to look out for any discernible pattern. Intermittent problems suck but if the engine is running/ pulling smoothly when it has started, you can probably rule out some of the basics around air and spark.
     
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  15. Paulcornwall Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Paul Penzance
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    I managed to get my delphi diagnostic of the FR-V last night and see one of the faults codes was low battery voltage. Unsure how old these codes are so they've been deleted. Had no problem for a number of days now. Managed to replace the front drop link yesterday and the caliber has been replaced by the garage. Running smooth as butter at the moment.
     
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  16. SpeedyGee Administrator Staff Team

    England Speedy Birmingham
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    Good to hear Paul :Thumbup:
     
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