General Accord Auto Boot Opener

Discussion in '7th Generation (2003-2008) [Acura TSX]' started by Accord_N22, Wednesday 29th Oct, 2014.

  1. Accord_N22 Top Contributor ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆

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    Hi All

    Just a thought and was wondering if it was possible at all.
    Just come back from Holiday, our rental car was a Dodge Charger and it had a remote boot release which opened the boot automatically, I thought this would be really nice and handy if it could be fitted to the saloon 7th Gens. The 7th Generation saloons already has the remote boot release but it doesn't open automatically

    I know the estate 7th Generation Accord has the remote opening tailgate but I was wondering if anyone had retrofitted an opening mechanism to the 7th Generation saloons?

    I have heard BMW owners converting the saloons and one person converting a 5th Generation Prelude boot to open but I haven't seen any Accord Owners do this.

    Cheers peeps!
     
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  2. DeviateDefiant Co-Founder Staff Team

    United Kingdom Leo Northants
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    You effectively mean to tie in the boot latch opening to also have some sort of strut to automatically raise it up?

    If so I like the idea, but can't immediately think of a way to do it in a way that would take it to it's full open position while not looking really out of place.

    Got any pics of it on other models?
     
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  3. Accord_N22 Top Contributor ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆

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    Hi Leo, Yep that's exactly what I mean.

    Just done a bit of digging and found this.
    It seems it is possible and rather a very simple mod.
    A lot of debate on the gas strut spring rate but I think the 90Ib is the one to go for.
    Parts to be bought from a place called mc master
    McMaster-Carr#

    No More Trunk Rattles with Gas Spring Replacements - Acura TSX Forum

    Video of boot opening


    Additional info on part numbers being incorrect on main DIY how to
    Gas Springs Replacement for TSX trunk...The Write Up is finally finished. - AcuraZine Community
     
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  4. DeviateDefiant Co-Founder Staff Team

    United Kingdom Leo Northants
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    Well, that makes it all pretty simple then eh? I'm surprised how smooth it seems getting pushed up by the spring.

    I'm definitely up for giving this a shot. It can't be much more difficult that fitting gas struts like I did for the bonnet. I guess the first thing is to try find some comparable parts to source from the UK/EU to save costs.
    - - - Updated - - -
    Btw I'm getting a page not found for the TSXClub link, and unfortunately the images are dead on the AcuraZine thread. I guess that means we need to make a big HK DIY :Laughing:
     
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  5. Accord_N22 Top Contributor ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆

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    Hi Leo

    The page works when I am on it but when I post the link to the URL on here it doesn't like it.
    Enter the address manually as below

    Type
    http://www

    then
    tsxclub.com/forums/1st-gen-electronics/7834-no-more-trunk-rattles-gas-spring-replacements.html
     
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  6. DeviateDefiant Co-Founder Staff Team

    United Kingdom Leo Northants
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    Thanks mate, I've fixed the link on the post :Smile:

    I've quoted the instructions below complete with pictures incase the links go dead in the future, it doesn't look too hard to do whatsoever.

     
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  7. Accord_N22 Top Contributor ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆

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    Yeah, its DEF worth doing I think. Not sure about removing the OEM torsion springs as they can be a bugger to remove I think.
    Maybe the mod can still be performed by leaving those in place.

    HAHA. A big HK DIY is always a must.

    Ahh great idea Leo. That should save the original DIY for the future
     
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  8. SpeedyGee Administrator Staff Team

    England Speedy Birmingham
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    Oohh I like this... I'm getting that warm fuzzy feeling, where's my wallet !
     
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  9. Nighthawk Guest

    United Kingdom Richard Milton Keynes
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    I like this idea- saw this on a BMW *spit* the other day and thought to myself, why should your car be incredibly complicated and unreliable and have a cool feature like that when mine doesnt.
     
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  10. AccordCU2 Expert Advisor ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

    I am sure I saw this back in AOC days from member James or something like that.
    He had few gadgets installed on his 8th Generation including something similar to this.
    I am in the middle of something now but will try and find that thread later if it wasnt lost in transfer to HK.
    He sold his Accord and it's not active any more
     
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  11. AccordCU2 Expert Advisor ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

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  12. Nels Moderator Staff Team

    Well remembered @Zoran. :Grin:
    A neat idea. Like to see if anyone else can make it work.
     
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  13. Accord_N22 Top Contributor ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆

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    Looking at the 7th Generation mod I assume the brakets on the back wall need the screw holes drilling
    Would this be difficult to drill?

    Would you guys think the mod can be applied without removing the OEM torsion springs
     
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  14. Nighthawk Guest

    United Kingdom Richard Milton Keynes
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    This idea really does tickle my fancy a bit.... I would imagine that keeping the stock OEM springs would just lessen the amount of pressure required from the gas lifters.
     
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  15. Accord_N22 Top Contributor ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆

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    Bad news!
    I have contacted McMaster Carr and it seems they don't want to deal with international customers.
    I should have ordered it whilst I was on Holiday in Florida - lol
    Nevermind. It was a good idea while it lasted.


    -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    From: McMaster-Carr [mailto:chi.sales@mcmaster.com]
    Sent: 05 November 2014 19:46
    To: alex
    Subject: RE: Items Required but Shipping Quote to UK

    Hi Alex,
    Thank you for considering McMaster-Carr for your purchase of the items listed below, but we decline to bid.
    Due to the complexity of US export regulations, McMaster-Carr only accepts overseas purchases from our established international customers.
    John

    -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    From: Alex
    Sent: Wednesday, November 5, 2014 11:02 AM M1259824041
    To: cle.sales@correspondence.mcmaster.com
    Subject: Items Required but Shipping Quote to UK

    Hi There
    I require a few items from your website to convert my Honda Accord boot lid to auto open, but I need them shipped to the UK.
    The below are the items I need.
    How much is shipping to the UK and how would the shipping option work on your online website ordering system
    What shipping service will you use if you ship to the UK.
    Many thanks
    Kind Regards
    Alex

    Items required below
    x2 9512K63 Ball Mounting Hardware, 10mm Zinc-Plt-Steel Ball Stud with 5/16"-18 x.75" Long Thread
    1 Pack of 10 90216A350 1" Long Replacement Barrel for Sealing and Thread-Locking Binding Post, packs of 10
    x2 9512K95 Ball Mounting Hardware, Zinc-Plated-Steel, 90 Degree Angle Inverted Ball Bracket
    x4 9416K74 10 mm Steel Ball Socket for M6 Thread Gas Spring with Threaded Ends
    x2 9416K15 Gas Spring with Threaded Ends, 90 Force, 10.71" Extended Length, 3.94" Stroke
    Totals: $55.82 (excluding shipping)
     
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  16. Accord_N22 Top Contributor ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆

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  17. Nighthawk Guest

    United Kingdom Richard Milton Keynes
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    @Accord_N22

    Strut - pretty much same specs as american parts:
    8mm rod 110mm stroke gas strut - GS8-18-110-160 same extended length, 10mm longer stroke.

    Here you go:

    2x: K8 - 10mm Ball Stud Bracket - 700N

    or - K3 - Circular 10mm Ball Stud Bracket - 300N
    - K9 - 10mm Ball Stud Right Angle Bracket
    - K5 - 10mm Ball Stud Right Angle Bracket

    Or whatever other ones on there that would be needed.

    2x: B7 - Metal 10mm Ball Socket 19mm long with a M6 thread

    1x: 8mm rod 110mm stroke gas strut - GS8-18-110-160

    Job sorted - much neater as well than the american version.

    In fact, if you order a strut as above, you get the end fittings for free so all you need to get is a bracket that fits. So, for 20 odd quid, you are sorted.

    We don't need to copy others specs, after all ...... :sparta:
     
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  18. Nighthawk Guest

    United Kingdom Richard Milton Keynes
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    Ok, I have actually done a bit of research into this. I prefer finding things out for myself sometimes.

    Crawled into the boot earlier. On the car frame which the rear seats go into to the point where the spring attaches onto the boot arm to open it is approximately 200mm depending on whether you have it at an angle or straight. This is the boot closed. When the boot is open, the same distance is 320mm so the total stroke range is 120mm of movement.

    Whilst in the boot, I put my finger on the rear of the boot arm and popped the boot remotely and pushed to see how much force is needed. Not a huge amount and I could assist the boot all the way up with my middle finger exerting pressure. So:

    200mm boot closed
    320mm boot open

    Depending on whether it is angled or not. The american site stated 90lb of force, which is around 400newtons. You can also get adjustable struts but they appear to be one use only. They start off maxed out at 700n and then you remove a grub screw to relieve some pressure and subsequently their force until you hit your required amount. You can decrease the pressure, but not increase it. So - I found this:

    8mm rod 150mm stroke gas strut - GSV8-150

    200mm fully closed
    350mm fully open

    The strut would still have around 30mm of stroke left but most struts start running out of steam towards their maximum stroke so I am curious if this would be an issue. This is adjustable so you just tune it to how quickly you want the boot to open, but its a one shot deal. You also have a bit more freeplay with distance depending on how you angle the strut, and seeing that the brackets allow it to rotate, it seems perfectly doable.

    Interesting idea - I think I might give this a try.

    Gonna join me @Accord_N22 ?


    EDIT:

    SHOPPING LIST:
    1x Gas Strut - £22.37 - 8mm rod 150mm stroke gas strut - GSV8-150
    2x Strut ends 10mm ball sockets - FREE - B7 - Metal 10mm Ball Socket 19mm long with a M6 thread
    1x 90 degree 10mm ball socket bracket - £7.19 - L9R - Stainless Steel 90° 10mm Inside Ball Stud Bracket
    1x 10mm ball stud M8 bolt - £1.55 - X4 - 10mm Ball Extension M8 male thread 25mm long

    Then you just need a washer and a M8 nut. The bolt is 25mm long so its enough to go through the boot arm whilst still helping the arm maintain its strength.

    Total cost including VAT and delivery - £37.46
     
    Last edited: Friday 7th Nov, 2014
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  19. Accord_N22 Top Contributor ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆

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    @Nighthawk
    Wow, thanks for this nighthawk. I was going to look into this but you beat me to it :Smile:

    From your findings I see we only need to apply the gas strut to one side and with the 700N gas strut this should be more than powerful to compensate for the lack of another gas strut on the opposite side.
    I notice sometimes when I release my boot to get shopping in, the boot sometimes sticks (the car does live under a tree) so I assume with the 700N gas strut tuned to my preference it should over come any adhesion to the boot and rubber seals.

    And also with people who have the spoiler or sound insulation to the under side of the boot lid this would add additional weight so the 700N strut should be a good pressure to start with and then start releasing the pressure slowly for the ideal boot opening speed.

    Few queries
    -With the strut being on one side would it still feel consistent when closing the boot lid? Would it benefit for having two gas struts one either side for smooth boot closure
    - I haven't been rooting around in my boot yet but I assume we have to drill the two pilot holes for the 90deg bracket which is attached to the rear seat frame?
    -During installation we have to find the optimal position for the 90 deg bracket?
    -The boot interior trim should hide the gas strut nicely?
    -We can leave the torsion bars in place?
    - with the 50mm shortfall of distance could we get gas strut rod extenders?

    The one shot gas strut tune is a worry but I guess if you accidently release all the pressure a new one isn't really breaking the bank
    I am definitely up for doing this.
     
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  20. Nighthawk Guest

    United Kingdom Richard Milton Keynes
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    Yeah sorry bud, got bored, needed something to keep my mind ticking over and since you raised this post, it seems like a nice little project to get my teeth into. Not trying to pinch your idea from you at all. :Smile:

    I am experimenting just as you are mate so I can't say I have all the answers or if they are even correct but from digging around today, I can make a few comments on the points you have raised and it would be nice to work out this whole thing between the two of us if possible.

    - My finger pushed the boot open fine and it was smooth and the boot or the mechanism didnt twist at all. Obviously I have no idea what long term use just one strut would have on the integrity of the boot mechanism so I guess two struts would be better in the long run and you would have to make sure that they would be exerting the same amount of pressure on each side therefore requiring you let identical amount of air out. Need to find a way of testing more accurately what pressure they are putting out.

    - You would have to drill holes for the mounting bracket on the car body for the rear of the strut. I think I would personally bolt it in place. You would also have to drill a hole in the boot arm for the stud to go through if you want to keep the torsion bars in place (which I would - takes less stress of the strut and no problems if you have to remove them for whatever reason). The stud would replace any integrity you lose by drilling as it will fill the hole completely.

    - Yes - we will have to figure out what the best angle is for this to work/optimum bracket placement - I was just messing around with a tape measure etc,

    - There seems to be plenty of room behind the trim - I pulled it back, and there is a clear, straight line of sight from the boot arm to the car body behind the rear seats.

    - I don't see why we cannot leave the torsion bars in place. I couldn't see any logistical reason why they should be moved. This can be done without even touching them. Personally, I am going to leave mine in place and I will create the mounting hole for the stud just underneath where they attach to the boot arm.

    According to their website, when you release the pressure off the strut - for each 1 second that the grub screw is loosened, it reduces the pressure by 30 newtons. So around a 9 second burst will bring it close to the americans lb equivalent in his DIY. However, he removed the torsion bars so it would take more pressure for the boot to open. If you leave yours in place, I think it will take a lot less - as already said, I could do it with my middle finger. Had to push fairly hard but not enough to hurt.

    I will try to get some pics tomorrow to show you what I mean. The way I checked was this:

    Dropped the rear seats down and lay on my back with the upper half of my body in the boot and the lower part of my body in the rear of the car cabin, feet hanging out of the door. The boot was closed, but I had the car key with me. Pulled the trim back, checked things out with a torch, and then popped the boot remotely with the key whilst pushing on the arm with my finger. Took a few tries but I eventually got it to the point where as soon as the boot popped, it just smoothly went all the way up. I think 700 newtons is serious overkill, so tuning of it in will need to be done carefully to avoid breaking anything expensive. (i.e - your back windscreen)
     
    Last edited: Friday 7th Nov, 2014
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