Suspension, Steering and Brakes Accord Front Lower Arm

Discussion in '7th Generation (2003-2008) [Acura TSX]' started by SayamaAccord, Sunday 27th Nov, 2011.

  1. SayamaAccord Top Contributor ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆

    I've been mulling over the replacement of my 7th Generation front lower arm compliance bushes since Adam at HH gave my car the once over.

    I had a quick look and one of the shock absorber bushes is starting to split as well.

    If I take the arms off myself is it a time consuming job for a garage to replace the 6 bushes?
  2. Beefy Expert Advisor ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

    United Kingdom Stoke
    the hardest part of the job is removing the arms/shocker as bolts/nuts can easily seize and cause a major headache. a good garage will have a hydrolic press which makes fitting the bushes a doddle. just make sure they fit the compliance bushes in the correct possitions as they have small arrows on the rubber of the bushes that line up with marks on the arms. you will need to check the shocker bushes are avaliable separate as i have yet to replace one on a 7th Generation. prob take them an hour or so fit the bushes. if you are removing the arms make sure you wire brush the threads on the droplinks and soak all nuts and bolts in WD40 for a good hour or so. you may end up having to damage and replace the droplinks and if the compliance bushes are completly split and bolt seized, it may just spin and be a rite ball ache to get out. not trying to deter you but be prepared that it is an involved job.
  3. SayamaAccord Top Contributor ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆

    Cheers, thanks for your help.
  4. Ichiban Founder Staff Team

    England CJ Leeds
    Cliff where you able to this or is this on the backburner?
  5. SayamaAccord Top Contributor ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆

    Garage said the bushes are okay for the mo and when I got my new tyres they fixed the tracking so I'm just keeping an eye on it.

    There are small splits but only about 1mm or so.
  6. SayamaAccord Top Contributor ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆

    Only £110 a side for new bushes at Springfield Honda so not a major issue.
  7. jayok Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    FWIW - I done the LCA bushing this last week on my Accord. I was having problems with the car pulling and generally loose handling with wandering steering. So I bit the bullet and done them. Not overly difficult but the seized bolts were a complete pain... Made a massive difference to the handling

    Last edited by a moderator: Saturday 22nd Feb, 2014
  8. jayok Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    I did reply here, but it needs a moderator to approve??

    <edit> oh wait, I must have done something wrong. :Whistle:

    Basically, I done this a week ago, not the worst in the world, but the seized bolts were a complete pain.
    Last edited: Sunday 16th Sep, 2012
  9. Ichiban Founder Staff Team

    England CJ Leeds
    Please allow sufficient time for moderators to respond you thread has now been approved. Did you take picture of DIY so we can all learn from this?
  10. jayok Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    Oh ok - I didn't realise that posts needed to be approved. No matter I'll know in future.

    Nope. I had intended to take photos of the DIY for the opposite side, in so far as do one side, learn, then DIY the other side. But I got stuck with a seized bolt in the second side and put all the equipment away for the day - I only made the videos. When I went to the second-side again, there was so much effort, cursing, swearing, and pulling, I was just happy to get the thing done, I had moved on from even photoing it.:Blushing: Sorry.

    I really just need to video all the work I do and post it regardless.
  11. SayamaAccord Top Contributor ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆

    Thanks for posting this Jay.

    How do you get the drop links off - Allen key against the arm and ring spanner round the bolt hit with a hammer?
  12. jayok Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    Ah yes, the droplinks were awkward to remove - aslo they were pretty seized. Also, the size of allen-key was too big on the length of the bend and wouldn't fit 100% into the socket.

    So, I done the following:

    1. Soaked them in penetrating fluid (used PB Blaster - recommended or PlusGas, WD40 is pretty poor)
    2. As I couldn't get the key into the droplink socket connected to the LCA on the passenger side, I actually aimed to take the droplink out of the ARB instead.
    3. Without an allen-key, I tightened the nut first, the attempted to loosen - yep this I found cracked the rust seize
    4. More penetrating spray, 10 minutes, coffee! :Smile:
    5. Wirebrush off the rush on the bolt, more spray
    6. Slowly started to work the ring spanner and allen-key, about 5-6 minutes of turning off it came.

    Patience is key here, they will come off. Also the ARB droplinks are only strong in the direction of the push/pull of the bar, don't force them in any other direction or you'll be replacing these too! :Smile:
  13. jayok Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    Oh, another recommendation. When removing the bolts that hold the LCA to the sub-frame (the horizonal 17mm and vertical 19mm) use exact 6-sided sockets. Don't use the multipoint sockets or you'll round the bolt (see previous post re cursing, swearing, etc.:telloff:)
    Last edited by a moderator: Sunday 16th Sep, 2012
  14. SayamaAccord Top Contributor ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆

    Much obliged - I've read a few manuals and theories on this but nothing beats experience of doing the job :Thumbup:
  15. SayamaAccord Top Contributor ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆

    Can you get a torque wrench in to put the horizontal one back?
  16. jayok Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    No problem - now I wished I had videoed it. I supposed could have always used the "bleep" effect where appropriate, probably would have sounded like Morse Code though
  17. jayok Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    Nope, I'd a 3/8" Torque wrench and it wouldn't fit, there's very little space in there. I could have used a knuckle joint, but this alters the torque effect. In reality, I just made it good and tight and marked the position of the bolt when tightened with whitener (Tippex). If it moves I'll know about it, although in honesty, I don't see how it can.

    Oh and when inserting/removing the 19mm bolt, you'll need to raise the LCA to ensure that the arm is level with the subframe, otherwise, you'll shear either the bolt and/or bushing on install removal.

    <edit> Finally, to give you an idea of time it took 2.5 hours per side - excluding the effort on removing the seized 17mm LCA bolt - how I hate that bolt
    Last edited: Sunday 16th Sep, 2012
  18. Ichiban Founder Staff Team

    England CJ Leeds
    I can't say a lot about it.. as it defeat the object of having it, but it there as a antispam measure.
  19. jayok Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    Ah no problem - completely understand. I actually thought I was doing something silly on the iPhone