Pre-Purchase Accord Purchase

Discussion in '7th Generation (2003-2008) [Acura TSX]' started by Gareth Hancox, Wednesday 17th Aug, 2016.

  1. Gareth Hancox Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    Garth
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    Hello fellow members
    I am looking at getting back into the honda seen as I might be changing my job and have to buy my own car again.
    I don't have a massive budget, I have seen an Accord which as had 1 owner from new and a full honda service history. It has 115.000 miles on the clock but it is spotless from the photos. It's a 7th Generation Accord saloon ex diesel. Does anyone have any thoughts or opinions? Before I make the trip to see it?
    Thanks guys.
     
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  2. sc489 Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    My petrol Accord has been virtually faultless to 67k only needing a new brake master cylinder at 60k (replaced under extended warranty). The car does have an appetite for rear brake pads every 25k. Others can comment on the diesel engine.
     
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  3. Zebster Expert Advisor ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

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    Ideally it'd be good to see evidence of the clutch and exhaust manifold having been replaced. And, if it's a pre-facelift model (2004-2006), then keep an ear out for timing chain noise when hot and ticking over.
     
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  4. Gareth Hancox Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    Garth
    40
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    Thanks guys
    It's a 2007 on a 07 plate, would it still have these issues you mention?
    Cheers
     
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  5. Zebster Expert Advisor ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

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    Less chance of a timing chain problem, as the tensioners were redesigned.
     
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  6. marculos Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    England Mark Leicester
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    at that mileage check if clutch has been done as expensive job, if not check biting point not too low and gearbox not hard to get into 1st, 2nd, reverse shouldnt crunch. Plenty of Accords about so be picky and go for one with lots of history.
     
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  7. qc2 Senior Member ★ ★ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom quince Bromley
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    also 2007 should have the the 6-speed box which was a great update
     
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  8. Nels Moderator Staff Team

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  9. Nighthawk Guest

    United Kingdom Richard Milton Keynes
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    I see you say it has full service history - check for any signs of neglect as neglected CTDi's can be complete money pits if they have been abused. Find one which has been looked after and she will last you for ages. Il probably be selling mine early next year incidentally and she has been obsessively babied over since she was around 2 years old.... :Whistle:

    As Zebster said - check the manifold - there was a recall where the manifolds were leaking back into the cabin. VSA modulators are known to go on them as well but you can get that sorted with a fix which costs a few hundred only IF it decided to go. EGRs need cleaning out physically as well, which isnt covered in a normal service and is something which anyone with semi decent mechanical knowledge can do on their driveway - DIYs on this forum for both pre and facelift models. Clutches are expensive to replace and at that mileage, you MAY have to replace the DMF too depending on the state of it which won't be known till the gearbox has been removed - the cost of this could easily start heading towards the 1 grand area.

    Other than that - they are great cars despite what some of the diesel haters say. Mine is 111000 now and still drives perfectly with no rattles.
     
    Last edited: Monday 29th Aug, 2016
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  10. Nels Moderator Staff Team

    Typo?
     
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  11. Nighthawk Guest

    United Kingdom Richard Milton Keynes
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    Very much so - slap another 0 on the end of that.... :Laughing:

    Sorted
     
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  12. Gareth Hancox Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    Garth
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    Hi Nels
    It had sold by the time I got there but I'm going to look at one on Saturday 07 plate in graphite grey but an estate version being sold by a honda dealer as an approved honda used car. It has 107000 miles on but fill honda service history.
     

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  13. Nels Moderator Staff Team

    That's the facelift version. Approved Used will be a little more expensive, but they will sort out any issues. The clutch and DMF are very costly, so give her a good test run.
    :goodluck:
     
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  14. Nighthawk Guest

    United Kingdom Richard Milton Keynes
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    Turbo should start spooling at around 2000 RPM. Will be a gradual pull with a gentle whine until around 2300 when the turbo will pull strongly all the way up the rev range. Acceleration should be smooth. 3rd and 4th are good pulling gears and you can easily go from 30mph to 70mph in third gear with the turbo engaged all the way. As @Nels says, give it a good run and put your foot down a bit. Select a high gear at around 2000 RPM going up hill and put foot. This will encourage the clutch to slip if its at its wear limit. If it slips, walk away unless they will replace it otherwise its very expensive.
     
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  15. compo Junior Member ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Colin bradford
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    go for a good test drive get it into 6th and check for clutch slip by letting your foot off the throttle then fully back down and watch the rev counter and listen for engine revs that don't match your speed. a new clutch will cost you about £1000 fitted an a exhaust manifold about £500 . i know this because it happend to me.
     
  16. Nighthawk Guest

    United Kingdom Richard Milton Keynes
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    6th gear is too long - use a lower one - 3rd or 4th as they are good pulling gears and the slip would be easier to initiate and more noticable
     
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  17. compo Junior Member ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Colin bradford
    20
    5
    Forgot to say it was the dual mass flywheel that was on its way out as well but mine only slipped in 5th and 6th
     
  18. Accord_N22 Top Contributor ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆

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    Definitely go for the face lift Accord 2006-2008, this model has the revised timing belt tensioners as mentioned. You get a better car for your money.
    Revised front end, updated steering wheel, heated and electric folding mirrors, hands free kit, voice activation.
    Heres a quick link to describe the differences.
    Differences Between Facelift & Pre-Facelift (Bulletins & Advisories - )

    Other things to watch out for:
    -Ensure the engine has the up-rated aux belt routing performed - other wise it will be a new alternator
    Check here to see what we mean
    i-CTDi Noise from Alternator (Electrical & Lights - )

    -Cracked manifolds are common on all 7th Generation diesels. Should have already been done under warranty but there are loads out there that haven't.
    Can be used as a bargaining chip if it hasn't been done but expect around £300 ish quid to get it sorted - cheaper still if you can tackle it yourself. Not an easy job though.
    i-CTDi Diesel Exhaust fumes entering the vehicle on Prefacelift & Facelift Modesl. (Engine & Gearbox - )

    -As mentioned - DMF and clutch. Clutches are made of cheese on all I-CTDI's. Check for slippage. Try going on motorway in 4th gear. Accelerate hard still in 4th gear. Watch the revs - slippage should expose itself here.
    If you feel vibration under acceleration on the clutch pedal then the DMF may be on its way out.
    Walk away if if you don't want to do a clutch change.
    Clutch and DMF supply and fit is approx 1000 pounds.

    -HFT - hands free telephone - if equipped. These have a common fault - not connecting and not pairing with phones.
    There is no real solution to this - most fit parrot systems which is an easy install. others just leave it.
    Can also cause batery drain over 2 to 3 days as the bluetooth module just sucks power when they go faulty - even when the car is off and alarmed

    -Check the dvd player - lasers tend to die when using copied discs. Check to see if the maps are loaded up when the engine is started and the disc is genuine
    (applies only if the accord has sat nav)

    -Rear calipers tend to stick. Check for dust accumulation on rear alloys which is a sign.
    Not really a fault of the accord. From experiences all Honda's suffer from seizing rear calipers. Must be something of a Honda design flaw in them.

    -Check for water in the boot - spare wheel area. Not really a common issue on the accord but all saloons can suffer from leaky boots - sometimes owners slam the boot lid down very hard and can damage seals and crack the gutter lines around the boot area.

    -Accelerate hard from stand still. Check for vibration through steering wheel. If there are any, then it could be a sign the drive shafts have gone. The drive shafts are pretty weak on the diesel models due to the torque. Overtime the torque can damage the shafts if the car has always been driven hard in the past.
    Many members who experience this issue tend to replace the shafts with blueprint ones which are reasonably priced without paying mega bucks for genuine.

    -Check for hesitation upon acceleration - could indicate blocked EGR valve. Easy DIY to resolve if that the case.
    EGR may just need cleaning but off course there could be other issues.

    -When the engine is warm and reached its operating temperature, turn the engine off. Wait a moment and restart the engine - ensure it starts up fine and without any hesitation. if the car fails to start and just keeps cranking over it could indicate a faulty pressure relief valve. Fitted to the end of the fuel rail it costs around £100 to repair. But in that case just best to walk away.

    -Check when the fuel filter was last changed - usual service checks

    The above list may sound like alot but most of the issues are well covered here on the forum. I think the key aspect here is to ensure the car has been well looked after and it will clearly show upon the viewing.
    Alot of people really do hate the diesel but in my opinion it is a great car. I have had mine for nearly 3 years now and apart from needing a new alternator due to the previous owner not having performed the new aux belt routing the only issues i have had is replacing the rear calipers (my own choice) they were slightly sticking but could easily have left them. A few other niggles like a buckled wheel - no fault of the car - previous owner fault, faded headlight lenses and scratched body panels, again no fault of the car and that's it really. Most things I have done is to improve the car or add a few mods like rear parking sensors, auto boot opening and rear reverse camera.

    The I-CTDI engine is smooth and probably one of the quietest diesel engines at the time, you can hardly feel the diesel noise and rattle from inside the cabin. It has great torque when compared to a petrol and can haul 4 full sized passengers and you hardly feel it - it pulls really well.
    The clutch feel is really lovely, it has awesome feel and control on hill starts and is a pleasure to use. Steering is direct and responsive, its a hydraulic system so slightly weighted which i prefer compared to the new electric steering systems.
    Mileage isn't really important, but must be backed up with some service history - I have just touched over 143k miles on mine and the car is running better than ever.

    I am getting 61 MPG average and can easily achieve over 600 miles on a full tank with 69 miles to spare. i always think about changing to a petrol but the economy and range of the I-CTDI is just too good - lol

    20160826_174619.
    With that in mind, get the EX model. It is fully loaded with most toys from that time and you will be hard pushed to buy any other car which offers the same level of kit for the money - believe me I have tried. lol.

    Hope it helps!
    Good luck with the car viewing, let us know how you get on
     
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  19. Nighthawk Guest

    United Kingdom Richard Milton Keynes
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    I have never had the issue with the calipers binding but pretty much all Hondas suffer from this. I think the only reason why I havent had this problem is that I do yearly strip downs and cleaning sessions.

    Excellent write up @Accord_N22
     
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  20. Accord_N22 Top Contributor ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆

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    Thinking about it, once i replaced the calipers on the Accord and the Prelude it never seized again. So in that case, rear calipers are often overlooked and neglected by garages and normal owners.

    Thanks nighthawk :Smile:
     
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