Suspension, Steering and Brakes Advise Needed Regarding Rust on New Disc Brakes (Accord CL7)

Discussion in '7th Generation (2003-2008) [Acura TSX]' started by patrick737, Tuesday 12th Aug, 2014.

  1. patrick737 Junior Member ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    Hi guys,

    First of all, I live in the Netherlands and English is not my first language. So excuse me if I my spelling is wrong.

    After reading a lot on this forum, I finally decided to replace my front discs and pads myself!
    I replaced the stock discs and pads of my CL7 Accord with Brembo's.

    Everything went fine, the braking is good, no vibrating wheel or tramlining while braking.
    So far so good, but after 2 few weeks I see a band of rust developing on the outer edge of the right disc.
    The left disc doesn't have this! Is this normal??? I took everyting apart again, cleaned and used copper grease to lubricate everything.
    But it seems the outer edge of the pad doens't make contact with the right disc!
    Am I worrying about nothing or is something wrong??? Any advise/ thoughts are much appreciated!

    Gr. Patrick.
  2. Nels Moderator Staff Team

    Can you take a photograph of the disc so we can see it please ?
    A narrow band of rust on the edge could just be that the position of the pad - nearer the centre than the edge.
    A wider band could mean that the outer pad is not moving freely in the caliper.
    Pictures will help us know
  3. patrick737 Junior Member ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    Thank you for the reply!

    Here are 2 pics, the first one is the left (good) side, the second is the right side.
    It has been pooring today so the disc has some more corrosion as usual on the middle.

    Attached Files:

  4. Nels Moderator Staff Team

    Did you clean and re-grease the sliders?
  5. DeviateDefiant Co-Founder Staff Team

    United Kingdom Leo Northants
    Moved to the 7th Generation Accord section.

    Like Nels, my first thought it making sure the sliders are greased properly so the caliper can definitely move as freely as possible. Secondly, have you flushed the brake fluid?

    Even if you didn't open the system at all could have let let air in, when going from thin/worn pads to thick, the overall pressure in the system will have changed due to the pistons themselves being further back than before. I still need to do mine after a pad change a few weeks ago.

    What you see isn't right, I'd start by flushing and regreasing the sliders. Also worth checking the outer pad is correctly seated.
  6. patrick737 Junior Member ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    I cleaned and regreased the pins with lithiumgrease.
    The reservoir did run over when i pushed the pistons back in! Could there be air in the system because of this?
  7. DeviateDefiant Co-Founder Staff Team

    United Kingdom Leo Northants
    Yes that's quite likely, as you push the piston in and the fluid pops out the reservoir the pressure can suck air in. I'd do a full system bleed at all 4 corners :Smile:
  8. patrick737 Junior Member ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    Just my luck then, do you always have to do this when replacing the pads?
    Is there a diy about that on this forum?

    Anyway thanks for the help guys!
  9. Nels Moderator Staff Team

    The first section on the order of bleeding is Essential Brake information

    I would recommend using genuine Honda brake fluid and you will need at least a simple brake bleed kit.
  10. patrick737 Junior Member ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    Thx for the link.
    I think I will let the dealer do this simple task, since I don't have a brake bleeder.
    Will let you know if this solved the problem.
  11. Quacker Banned ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    I've never had to bleed the brakes after changing pads. It is a good idea, in fact essential, to change the fluid and bleed through to each calliper until fresh fluid discharges. This is because the fluid is hygroscopic and absorbs moisture which can boil at the calipers, leading to sudden complete brake failure.

    From the pictures, it doesn't look as if you use the car very much. Once rust develops on discs, and I don't mean the brown taint which appears almost instantly on wet discs, it is very hard to get rid of. Once they start pitting at the inner and outer edges, let alone the middle of the swept area, braking efficiency suffers badly and new discs [or skimming] is the only answer.

    Have you given those brakes a good hard workout to bed them in? Only do this after the first 150kms of normal driving though, especially if your discs are worn unevenly [which yours are not].
  12. SpeedyGee Administrator Staff Team

    England Speedy Birmingham
    That could also be a seized caliper.
  13. patrick737 Junior Member ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    I did brake them in after installing, braking more then average with speeds up to 80 km/h.
    If the caliper seized, then i would notice that when braking right? Then the car would turn left because the right is not braking??
  14. SpeedyGee Administrator Staff Team

    England Speedy Birmingham
    Hmm with it being the rear, you may not notice as much pull towards one side as the fronts are the providing the bulk of the braking and they would be braking evenly.
  15. patrick737 Junior Member ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    Just to be clear, these are the FRONT brakes, not the rear ones!
  16. SpeedyGee Administrator Staff Team

    England Speedy Birmingham
    Oh sorry my bad !! Early morning, I'm not fully awake yet :Whistle::Blushing:

    Just ignore me then.
  17. patrick737 Junior Member ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

  18. Beefy Expert Advisor ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

    United Kingdom Stoke
    only way to rectify this without fitting new discs is to check the discs are within the max re-finnish limit and have them skimmed. if at any point the pads were sticking and kicked slightly it may cause this corrosion. pitting has started on your discs and even with everything freed off you won't clean that up through braking. also your pads may have worn uneavenly. take them out and viualy inspect them. i reccomend they are '' faced up'' by rubbing on rough sand paper on a hard flat surface. you may find the top edge won't sand even to the rest. you can even them up yourself or buy new pads to fit to the re-finnished discs. or alternativly those discs are not excessive by any means. re-face the pads and re-fit them ensuring everything is free and get some more use out of the discs and pads before replacing. brake fluid condition will not cause any other issue than brake feel, always better to have it changed anyway.
    SpeedyGee and Nels like this.
  19. patrick737 Junior Member ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    thx for the info i will ask the dealer to look at this!
  20. patrick737 Junior Member ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    Well went to the dealer today.

    They bleeded the brakes, took everyting apart, and checked if I did everything correct.
    Since I painted the brakes callipers also, they sanded the spots where the main bolts are located, wich may caused a slight offset.
    I asked the mechanic what to do if the problem remains, he said that if the problem remains this can mean one thing:
    The discs and pads are straight, but the system (can't come up with english name:Unknown: for that), wich holds (cylinder and claw?) everything together could have a slight offset.
    If thats the case, he said don't do anything about the situation since you can damage more when trying to bend it back.
    The small band of rust is not a problem for the MOT, as he said and the pads will wear in.
    Let's hope this is the case.

    What do you guys think?:help: