General Anti roll bar drop links

Discussion in 'General Discussion' started by SayamaAccord, Sunday 11th Nov, 2012.

  1. SayamaAccord Top Contributor ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆

    What's the best way to "crack" the nut initially on a drop link?

    Socket anticlockwise?

    Socket clockwise?

    Allen hex key against arm, ring spanner round nut, hammer on nut?

    This is assuming you want to put the same link back afterwards.
     
  2. Ichiban Founder Staff Team

    England CJ Leeds
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    I have seen Holdcroft removing the four plastic tabs on the top of the and the bottom of the drop links , you can chisel them away. The hammer the outer covering hard until the plastic inset and the metal casing gives way.

    Then using mole grip on the end you have just removed and spanner on the other end you can remove the nut. no more grinding or Allen keys.

    simples.
     
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  3. SayamaAccord Top Contributor ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆

    Aye but then you can't re-use the link afterwards.
     
  4. Ichiban Founder Staff Team

    England CJ Leeds
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    yup that is if you were to remove the entire drop link.
     
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  5. jayok Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    It all depends on how long the droplinks are on the car - aka how rusted they are! My usual approach is to soak the bolt in penetrating fluid (PB Blaster or PlusGas) and then using a impact gun, TIGHTEN then loosen. The reason for this? It will normally break the rust on the start of the bolt and you need the impact to "shock" the rust off. Once done, out with the allen key and spanner, keeping the penetrating fluid and wirebrush handy (for the rust).

    But sometimes, you'll have no choice but to take out the hacksaw
     
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  6. MickyB Expert Advisor ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

    When I replaced them on my HR-V I managed to crack the bottom ones but couldn't budge the top ones so first thoughts !!! Angle grinder??? Wouldn't go in.
    So hack saw was my next option!!!
    Wouldn't go in??
    I ended up on my back wearing leather protective gloves and a JUNIOR hacksaw blade and struggled for about three hours to cut enough of the nuts away so I could then get a metal bar and a big hammer and knock them out. It was a big pain in the bum my hands ached for days afterwards but the satisfaction was uplifting when the new replacements went on what a relief it was.
    Glad it was a sunny day . Only problem was I was so overjoyed I bypassed tightening one of the nuts fully so had an annoying clunking sound at the back end which I thought was the rear transmission dampers. So they got changed still clunking so the daughters B/F thought it could be the rear shockers so he changed the side where we suspected the clunk to be only to find that when it was done it still clunked. !!!! Then he found the loose nut!!!!! Oppppps sorry . So the shocker was removed and returned for a refund and the nut was tightened never to clunk again.
    I was very Red faced for a while!!!!!! But it passes with age ha ha ha
     
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