General Blending metallic paint

Discussion in 'General Discussion' started by Nighthawk, Monday 28th Mar, 2016.

  1. There have been quite a few people here who have recently tackled, or wanting to tackle some body work resulting in the need to respray. I found this video the other day and forgot to post it but hopefully it helps explain what I mean about how you have to spray the surrounding panels otherwise the eye will pick it up from a mile away due to the way the flakes lie.

    A bit about me for those that don't know - I was taught how to spray a car by a professional using a professional set up and body shop so I was spoiled. This was put into practice many times and it helped fund my way through university by fixing my own, and others cars, as well as a few written off ones. It has now been well over 10 years since I last had access to such equipment however.

    A few things to point out here
    1 - He tapes right up to the edges - this is the correct way to do it as body gaps break the eye sight of continuity and therefore a body edge is the perfect place to break the spraying. A body line is the second best way. There is no third that I am aware of that you won't see.

    2 - Watch how he fethers the base coat in with flicks of his wrist on either side. All he wants to do is to paint the edge of the door where it meets the rear quarter panel. Once this is covered, the rest is just blending in

    3 - He doesnt change the angle of attack of the base coat. This ensures that the metallic particles land in the same direction

    4 - He starts spraying before he goes onto the metal work - this prevents spluttering

    5 - The lacquer is applied in a constant, steady movement, starting from off the metal (to prevent spluttering), all the way to the other side, same distance apart

    This guy does a great job, and hopefully helps to show how, with metallics, you cannot just paint the repaired part without it standing out from a mile away.
    For those that arent aware, professional spray guns have fully adjustable nozzles so you can adjust on the fly the spray pattern (you want around a 4-5 inch vertical spread). This is why spray cans will never match the performance of a proper gun on big panels, but on smaller ones, can do a decent enough job.

    This is how I sprayed @DeviateDefiant lower lip on his ATR however the temperature was still not right, it was a rush job and it still hadnt been flattened down to remove the orange peel. Just shows however - the difference between a paint can and a proper gun but shows the metallic particles and how they fall evenly.


    My alloys were done with cans and a 2k clearcoat and turned out nicely indeed. Cans have their places for sure but not large panels.



    Hope this helps someone for clarity?
    Last edited: Monday 28th Mar, 2016
    FirstHonda, MickyB, Nels and 3 others like this.
  2. SpeedyGee Administrator Staff Team

    England Speedy Birmingham
    That's top info there @Nighthawk, great post !
  3. Nels Moderator Staff Team

  4. MickyB Expert Advisor ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

    Excellent information I'll have to get my Santinos up to scratch that's after I've had a trial run on my HR-V ones.