Aftermarket Kit Car Speaker Upgrades

Discussion in '6th Generation (1997-2002)' started by Chunkylover53, Monday 21st Apr, 2014.

  1. Chunkylover53 Expert Advisor ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

    I'm getting 4 new speakers installed in a week or so, I've gone ahead and ordered the following:
    Sony XS-GT1338F 13cm 230W Peak Power 3-Way Triaxial: Amazon.co.uk: Electronics

    and

    PC2-818 Honda Accord Speaker Adaptor Lead Cable Stereo | eBay

    That said do you guys have any recommendations for car speakers? (preferably £100 max for 2 pairs)
    I DO NOT want Pioneer, cannot stress that enough. Same goes for FLI, Vibe and Edge - tried them in Halfords and they sounded atrocious.

    I listen to rap + hip-hop usually so bass and vocals are important to me, already got a subwoofer in the boot though.

    My head unit is Support for MEX-BT3900U | Sony

    The only part that concerns me is whether the unit would be able to power the speakers (I'm ignoring the sub as it's active?). The reason I'm upgrading is because the speakers just cut out at mid level volumes so hopefully these new speakers will resolve it?

    Oh and I'm gonna write up a guide whenever I get some time re trim removal + speaker replacements on 6th gens so hit me up if you got any Qs
     
    Loading...
  2. SpeedyGee Administrator Staff Team

    England Speedy Birmingham
    14,999
    5,595
    4
    RMS output of that head unit is 22w times 4 ... The speakers are 35w RMS each. So the head unit won't be able to drive them to their full potential.
    You'd need to install a 4x35w RMS output amp to achieve that.

    Look forward to the guide.
     
    Loading...
  3. Chunkylover53 Expert Advisor ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

    So speakers above 22w are not going to be fully utilized therefore I wouldn't see a difference between the ones linked and the step up model which is larger and rated at 40w RMS?

    I've been looking at amplifiers but I'm not sure what product would be suitable, also what would connect to what for it to work?
    I'm thinking that there would be RCA pre out to the amplifier which has to be wired to the car door speakers - in that case I'll probably leave the speakers underpowered for now.
     
    Loading...
  4. SpeedyGee Administrator Staff Team

    England Speedy Birmingham
    14,999
    5,595
    4
    Loading...
  5. Chunkylover53 Expert Advisor ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

    Ah that's a bit too steep mate, and cheap ones are just useless. Mid range alpines have got rave reviews when connected to a head unit so I may go for that instead. Either way il keep you posted.
     
    Loading...
  6. DeviateDefiant Co-Founder Staff Team

    United Kingdom Leo Northants
    9,206
    2,977
    3
    +1 on a basic amplifier, will make all the difference.
     
    Loading...
  7. SpeedyGee Administrator Staff Team

    England Speedy Birmingham
    14,999
    5,595
    4
    Keep a look out for secondhand ones to get better bargain, definitely worth adding the amp. What you could do is install the speakers as replacements now and then add in the amp at a later date.
     
    Loading...
  8. Chunkylover53 Expert Advisor ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

    Okay I've decided on Reference 5002ix - Infinity

    Few reasons behind decision:
    Many reviews of it sounding brill from standard head units
    Part of Harman Kardon
    Just within reach of my budget
    Pretty decent resale values

    Regarding the amp.... I really like the look of this - yes it is more expensive but at least I can install it without extra wires trailing all over and I think its easier (hopefully) ?
    Alpine KTP-445U Power Pack Upgrade any car radio to 45 watts RMS X 4 at Crutchfield.com

    I assume I am fig 8 or 10 in the diagram re installing for my Sony headunit? http://184.51.126.50/pix.crutchfield.com/Manuals/500/500KTP445U.PDF
    The way I see things is (excuse my lack of knowledge), I connect the ISO from my the headunit into the left hand panel as it connects to the 4 speakers. Then I buy a new cable to connect the right end to the head unit via the ISO block or RCA?

    I think I'm missing something regarding power though because my head unit is 10A and so is the ACC fuse on the car (which I've blown 7 times now by my count!). Do I have to do that splicing stuff now to connect to the battery?

    EDIT: Not sure if I'm using the right terminology, the car comes with a block which is connected to another wire block which connects to the head unit. I am referring to the second block when I say ISO.
     
    Loading...
  9. SpeedyGee Administrator Staff Team

    England Speedy Birmingham
    14,999
    5,595
    4
    Look at Fig 7 for power wiring, I think basically that diagram is saying connect the blue/white wire to the "remote on" wire from head unit OR if you don't have one of those use a ignition source via a 3A fuse (not at battery).

    To be honest with only a 3A requirement I'm unsure on its claim to providing 45w RMS times 4. ... That's 190w total .. with only 3 3A fuse this thing can only put out 36w max ... so how on earth can it claim 45w rms x4 ?? Also using "remote on" to actually power this thing would add more current demand via the head unit.

    Personally and especially given the fact that the price is the same, I would go for a proper amp setup.
     
    Loading...
  10. SpeedyGee Administrator Staff Team

    England Speedy Birmingham
    14,999
    5,595
    4
    Just had a look at the owners manual .. it actually has a 15A fuse and a separate wire that connects either to the battery via a 15 amp fuse or to the same power wire that feeds the head unit.

    So the 3A fuse is for switching on this little amp, that said the 15A fuse is only just enough to provide the rated 45w x4 output. So I'm still slightly dubious.

    So this thing does actually need wiring up anyway, so may as well go with amp solution.
     
    Loading...
  11. SpeedyGee Administrator Staff Team

    England Speedy Birmingham
    14,999
    5,595
    4
    This was bugging me so I had another rethink ... so I was stumped at how they can claim 45wx4 ability with only a 15Amp fuse.

    However, looking at my calculation 12v *15 Amp = 180 Watts .... the mistake I made was assuming running voltage is 12v ... of course it's running voltage is actually stated on their specifications as 14.4 volts

    So ... 14.4v * 15 amps = 216Watts ... so ... I have take back what I said .. this can run 45w RMS x4 :Blushing:

    So scratch what I said above then .. go for it if you like.
     
    Loading...
  12. Chunkylover53 Expert Advisor ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

    Nice, I'll probably get round to it whenever I can find a used one on ebay then. At least then if I fail I can sell it without much loss.
     
    Loading...
  13. Chunkylover53 Expert Advisor ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

    Okay I got the Sony's and Infinity's today - I left them in for an hour or so at mid to high vol whilst I revised inside the car. Obviously my results would've been better if they had been broken in properly but I have to get these in tomorrow.

    OEM speakers - Very little bass, distortion after 20 vol XPLOD EQ, when under the sound is not bad but after 40mph its almost gone. Fits perfectly obviously. 15W RMS

    Sony speakers - Nice punch to the bass but that's it - the treble and vocals in general were just disgusting, it made Sean Kingston sound tinny which is a feat in itself! Distortion after 32 vol which is just about enough. These DO fit perfectly so may consider these for the rears only 35W RMS

    Infinity speakers - Blew the other two outta the water, bass was a very happy medium, not as much as Sony but I've got a sub anyway so not an issue. Treble/Vocals etc were spot on, made me realise how crap the Sony's really were. Also, I could adjust the tweeters position on the unit to face up. HOWEVER they do not fit inside the bracket as they are very deep so I may have to return these even though I don't want too. Hopefully my mechanic will come up with a solution - right now I am thinking of cutting the speaker grill so the unit can stick out a little. 45W RMS

    So that's my quick roundup - please note that all these results were after an hour of listening to the same playlist for an hour each.

    For now I plan on taking a look at Hertz and JBL speakers but in all honesty I just wanna get those infinity's installed even if it ends up being a bit of an eyesore.

    Also noob question here but does it matter if the metal back of the speaker is constantly attached by magnetic forces to the car door? What is there is a plastic bracket or foam spacers in the way?
     
    Loading...
  14. SpeedyGee Administrator Staff Team

    England Speedy Birmingham
    14,999
    5,595
    4
    Sorry CL I didn't understand your last question.
     
    Loading...
  15. Chunkylover53 Expert Advisor ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

    Erm sorry I wish I knew the correct terminology. I was asking whether it is okay for the back of the speaker unit to touch the cars body metal?

    Also it was raining today so I got it rescheduled to fit them on Sunday instead
     
    Loading...
  16. SpeedyGee Administrator Staff Team

    England Speedy Birmingham
    14,999
    5,595
    4
    Only issue with back of speaker touching outer door panel is you'll get resonance from the speaker.

    Best to have a gap and even then if speaker is close you probably want to try and fit some sound deadening onto that area of the door panel.
     
    Loading...
  17. Chunkylover53 Expert Advisor ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

    Thought something across those lines would be said. I'll have to heavily edit the bracket or fit foam pads or something to deaden the sound. Doesn't look good though, even if I drill into the metal on the door I doubt I'll be able to fit the speaker without it touching something else.
     
    Loading...
  18. Chunkylover53 Expert Advisor ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

    OK so I had a good think over the speaker not fitting issues and then realised that the speakers do fit but the brackets inner design is the issue because the back of the speaker wouldn't fit flush as it has a slighter bigger diameter than OEM. So hopefully the mechanic has a saw or something that I can use to cut the backs off the brackets.
    2014-04-27 01.55.48. 2014-04-27 01.56.00.

    Then I realised that the OEM speakers followed a 3 hole screw hole design whilst I needed 4. Unfortunately the bracket has the three holes whilst the rest of the area with the same difference in radius from the centre is hollow so I can't simply make more holes. Only third hole at the bottom of the speaker in this pic has a screw thread - rest are just hollow following the pattern.
    2014-04-27 01.57.21.

    That brought my attention to MDF spacers which I realised would be perfect, this item in particular:
    MDF Round Oval Car Speaker Spacer Adaptor Ring 4" 5.25" 10" 6.5" 12" 6 x 9" 15" | eBay

    Size 5.25 18mm depth - perfect size for the 6th Generation Accord.

    However I've got fitting in 8 hours from now so all I can really do is try and find another solution or hope for heavy rain tomorrow to further delay this without pissing off my indie. I'm not going to even think about hoping for rain so moving on...

    I need to somehow fill in the spaces of the bracket with a hard substance that will let me screw the speaker into it securely. Concrete springs to mind but that's silly, need something similar though. Any ideas guys?



    2014-04-27 01.56.36.

    On a separate note I managed to catch the odometer when it rolled over to 80k (after doing a miles worth of laps in the local Currys car park :Rolf:)
    2014-04-26 15.02.00.
     
    Loading...
  19. SpeedyGee Administrator Staff Team

    England Speedy Birmingham
    14,999
    5,595
    4
    Get some MDF and cut the spacer out yourself CL. All you need is a jigsaw.

    LOL @ doing a miles worth of laps just to tick mileage counter over to 80K