Engine & Gearbox Clutch Squeal and battery charging

Discussion in '1st Generation (2004-2011)' started by oktorockto, Saturday 17th Oct, 2015.

  1. oktorockto Junior Member ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Okto Canterbury
    6
    Hi,

    I have an 05 Petrol 2.0l FR-V. I'm glad I went for the larger engine, I tried the 1.7 and it did feel a bit gutless. Ours has now done about 110,00 miles, we have done about 15K of those.

    Had this for a year now, have done a few things, got rid of the aftermarket alloys ( I didn't realise they weren't original) and got some genuine ones. Here is my first question, do the wheel nuts for steel and alloy wheels differ?

    When we got it I replaced the rear discs as these were really worn and did a bit of work on the calipers. Just failed the MOT on the rear brakes so stripped again, found lots of corrosion on the caliper pistons, got rid of this with emery cloth and it passed. I have new calipers coming though, (reconditioned as new ones are £330 each!) as they were far from perfect.

    Apart from the brakes we also have some rust on the wheel arches and a little on the tailgate where the handle fits and also where the number plate lights are. The engine is very good, I did the valve clearances recently and the cams look like new.

    Anyway, one problem we do have is a strange squeal from the clutch when pulling away. This is intermittent and sounds a bit like cheetah from the tarzan films! I wonder if it could be the pushrod bearing for the clutch perhaps? When the time comes I'll probably leave this to a main dealer as, although I have replaced clutches before the manual I have for this car really doesn't have step by step procedures from start to finish. Does anyone else have experience of this noise?

    The only other thing is the battery doesn't seem to stay perfectly charged. It only takes a short while with the radio on without the engine on for the battery to go flat. I replaced the battery last year but we are having this problem again. Anyone have any experience of this?
     
  2. SpeedyGee Administrator Staff Team

    England Speedy Birmingham
    14,999
    5,593
    4
    Welcome to Honda Karma :Hey:

    :garage:

    Why did the brakes fail MOT was it on poor performance ?

    You may want to replace all the brake fluid if this case.

    This could be coming from the release bearing.

    What make of battery was it ?

    Make sure all your earths are clean and the earth cables are in good condition. Test the alternator (there's a few thread on here about doing this).
     
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  3. oktorockto Junior Member ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Okto Canterbury
    6
    The brakes were binding one side and imbalanced. Both had severe corrosion on the pistons. I'm going to get new callipers.

    Release bearing, that's what I thought. Borrowed time is the phrase which comes to mind.
     
  4. SpeedyGee Administrator Staff Team

    England Speedy Birmingham
    14,999
    5,593
    4
    You need to do a full brake fluid flush as well then. The corroded pistons are a sure sign that brake fluid has moisture in it !
    Brake fluid is hygroscopic, over time it absorbs water and this is what corrodes the pistons which inevitably leads them to ceasing.

    Somebody on here actually has actually managed to lube the release bearing from outside !! One of the diesel guys I think.
    Let me try and find that thread.
    - - - Updated - - -
    Here you go .. Intermittent Changing Gear Problem 2.2 i-CDTi (Engine & Gearbox - )

    It was @DieselPower who did it.
     
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  5. oktorockto Junior Member ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Okto Canterbury
    6
    Hi again, yes, I did a full system bleed last year, with Honda fluid, butctgat is something many people neglect so I'm reaping the negative rewards I guess.

    I'm not sure that is the release bearing DieselPower greased, it might be the bearing for the slave cylinder but on the 2.0L petrol its a gearbox off job for the actual clutch release bearing. I have seen that thread but I'll have another good look at it.
     
  6. SpeedyGee Administrator Staff Team

    England Speedy Birmingham
    14,999
    5,593
    4
    To change it yes it's a gearbox off job (really big job) but it would be a shame to go to that length just to fix a release bearing squeal.

    When I got I first got mine at 62K miles it use to do it a lot it got less and less frequent all by itself without me having to do anything. After 90K miles it started only happening once is a blue moon if I engaged the clutch very very slowly on a steep incline.
     
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  7. oktorockto Junior Member ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Okto Canterbury
    6
    I take it back, definitely the release bearing. I don't know how different the 2.0L gearbox is though. Soundsclike a risky operation but worth it if you get it right. We don't have any problems with the cluth at all, just this intermittent squeal
     
  8. Ben28 Senior Member ★ ★ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Ben Shetland
    162
    107
    I heard that changing the pistons for stainless ones is an option.. I guess you'd send one to a company to machine an exact copy? I haven't looked into it at all .
    What do you guys think?

    All four of my pistons have corroded over the last year.
     
  9. ArcticFire-Account Closed Banned Getting Started

    Scotland Graham Scotland
    3,521
    1,051
    7
    I had that squeal with my Accord, a little annoying and scares pedestrians lol

    I'd just wait until the clutch needs to be done as it's such a big job
     
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  10. oktorockto Junior Member ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Okto Canterbury
    6
    Recon callipers from GSF £57 each Inc vat. Reckon that's the way to go. Glad the clutch squeal doesn't sound terminal. Just need to work out what is going on with the charging.
     
  11. Euan Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    When testing the alternator follow one of the Honda specific guides. Due to the ELD used in Hondas the output voltage may be low (~12.5V) or high (~14.5V) from an alternator that is working correctly.