Engine & Gearbox DIY Clutch fluid change Accord 2.4 petrol

Discussion in '7th Generation (2003-2008) [Acura TSX]' started by tonygw, Friday 12th Apr, 2013.

  1. tonygw Valued Contributor ★ ★ ★ ☆ ☆

    Hi Guys
    I have done a clutch fluid change on my 2004 accord tourer 2.4 exec. I guess the procedure would be the same for all 2.0 and 2.4 litre models so thought I would share the procedure with anybody else wanting to attempt this. The problem I had was the biting point of the clutch was near the floor and the gear change was notchy. I also adjusted the clutch pedal but didn't take any pictures, sorry. But I will explain a little on this at the end.

    Tools I used
    1 x 10mm ratchet spanner
    1 x 8mm open ended spanner
    1 x one man brake bleed kit or length of suitable pipe to attached to bleed nipple
    1 x bowl to catch the clutch fluid

    Firstly below is a picture of the fluid in the car. Very murky and horrible and in need of a change regardless.

    IMAG1170.

    First job was to get the coolant expansion tank out of the way. Very easy, two 10mm bolts each side. Be careful the bolts are screwed into the plastic radiator cowl and you DON'T want to damage these. I was careful with the spanner but they loosened with a bit of a shove. When refitting DO not over-tighten this or the plastic will break.

    IMAG1171.

    The expansion tank has a long bottom to it so when the bolts are removed you need to pull it upwards slowly. This will release it from its bottom slot in mounting. You can then wiggle it upwards and to the left out of the way. Make sure the lid is tight or coolant will spill out. You can see what I mean in the picture below.

    IMAG1175.

    Below you can see the clutch slave cylinder deep into the engine bay which has the bleed nipple on (the device with the hydraulic pipe shown below). The bleed nipple is a little hard to get to but I move the coolant pipe blocking it a little and access was ok. You need an 8mm open ended good quality spanner to crack this bleed nipple. I soaked mine in wd40 for a couple of hours and then very carefully made sure the spanner was seated correctly before applying pressure. The last thing you want is to round this off. To be honest the bleed nipple was quite stiff to unscrew so go carefully. You need to undo it about 1/2 turn. Fluid will then start to drip out onto the under tray. At this point you need to be ready with the pipe to attach to the nipple to drain the fluid off. See next picture.

    IMAG1177.

    Below is the slave cylinder with a 8mm spanner locked on to show what I mean. I used the one man brake bleed kit which I pushed the end onto the bleed nipple. This works well as it has a plastic retaining clip to hold the pipe in place. At the other end is a one way valve to stop air getting back into the system. You need to route the pipe to the bowl to catch the fluid. There is a convenient hole in the under tray to poke it through. I tied on some string to to the end of the pipe so I could hook the string and help feed the pipe through the undertray more easily.

    IMAG1180.

    Below is the other end of the one man brake bleed kit poked through the undertray. Quite easy really.

    IMAG1179.

    Ok so now I was ready. i opened the clutch fluid top up chamber on top of the master cylinder next to the brake master cylinder fluid chamber on the drivers side near the bulk head, as per the first photo.
    I used a small funnel in the top up chamber. I hand pumped the clutch pedal 6 times by hand which easily went to the floor as the fluid was pushed through the system and out of the slave cylinder. 6 pumps took the fluid down enough to top it back up with clean fluid without air being drawn into the system. So I repeated this until I had clear fluid running out of the drain pipe and I had used about 450ml of fluid. You need to keep a little back just in case it needs topping up once finished. At this point I let the pedal up to its top or normal position and tightened the the bleed nipple. Don't over-tighten it just nip it up tight so its secure but be careful not to round it off. Remove the brake bleed kit and bowl with the murky fluid in. Refit the expansion bottle (reversal of the removal). Now check the clutch pedal. it should feel like a normal clutch does. Once you have rechecked everything start the engine and check the clutch operation is normal.

    Once I had done this I had a nice cup of tea.

    This did make a slight improvement to my clutch bite point but the fluid was well overdue a change anyway.

    There is also adjustment on the clutch pedal under the dash in the guise of a threaded bar out of the clutch master cylinder where it attached to the clutch pedal. This is locked in with place with a 12mm locking nut. If I get chance I'll do a quick write up on this but i have no pictures sorry.
    Hope this is useful.
    Tony
     
    Loading...
  2. SpeedyGee Administrator Staff Team

    England Speedy Birmingham
    14,999
    5,593
    4
    Nice on Tony, the guide looks good (will have a more thorough read of it later). Another candidate for DIY of the Month award :Thumbup:

    BTW, if you double click on the images (when your in edit mode) you will see options to make them bigger :Wink:
     
    Loading...
  3. AccordCU2 Expert Advisor ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

    Nice one Tony and thanks for reminding me.
    My brake and clutch fluid is due change (last done in March 2012)
    Trip to HH me thinks.
     
    Loading...
  4. SpeedyGee Administrator Staff Team

    England Speedy Birmingham
    14,999
    5,593
    4
    Zoran, that's cheating !! You got all the tools now :Wink:
     
    Loading...
  5. AccordCU2 Expert Advisor ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

    Ha ha true Speedy.Don't have brake bleeding thingy yet.
    Might give it a go myself.
     
    Loading...
  6. Ichiban Founder Staff Team

    England CJ Leeds
    30,154
    6,392
    516
    Good stuff Tony you used my recommendations,another thread candidate for DIY awards.
     
    Loading...
  7. tonygw Valued Contributor ★ ★ ★ ☆ ☆

    Yeah thanks Ichibanaccord. Yes your advice was perfect so I thought it only fair to put it up on here. big thanks
     
    Loading...
  8. ArcticFire-Account Closed Banned Getting Started

    Scotland Graham Scotland
    3,521
    1,051
    7
    This one is definitely bookmarked :Smile:
     
    Loading...
  9. intruder Top Contributor ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆

    United Kingdom Rokas Bristol, UK
    743
    227
    Hi guys. A question. How much of brake fluid would I need for a full flush and replacement of brake fluid? 500ml enough? :Unknown:
     
    Loading...
  10. AccordCU2 Expert Advisor ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

    1.5 litre needed for full brake flush.That how much CJ used when he done my car.
     
    Loading...
  11. Brodziu Valued Contributor ★ ★ ★ ☆ ☆

    Greg Manchester
    396
    95
    great DIY, I believe it will be the same or very similar in 2.2, if it comes to brake system you'll need approx. 2 litres, I'll be doing mine in few days as I got my brake fluid today, so I'll tell you.
     
    Loading...
    Ichiban likes this.
  12. AccordCU2 Expert Advisor ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

  13. Brodziu Valued Contributor ★ ★ ★ ☆ ☆

    Greg Manchester
    396
    95
    thanks for that, very helpful info ;-)
     
    Loading...
  14. intruder Top Contributor ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆

    United Kingdom Rokas Bristol, UK
    743
    227
    oh s**t... I just spotted I wrote down my question in a wrong thread.. here's a thread for a cluth fluid change. I need a brake fluid change..

    - - - Updated - - -

    Anyway... I'm so much confused now. Some time ago, when I've asked Honda Bristol South dealer how much of brake fluid I would need for a full change they said 3 small bottles, which is what 300ml a bottle? Okay.. It was only my enquiry. BTW, I did ask how much Mugen brake fluid cost and been told I would need 2 x 500ml making to 1000ml for a full change. OK. Now the time comes when I really need to change that brake fluid and I'm thinking to get the Mugen one. E-mail'ed Bristol Honda (another one) enquiring how much Mugen fluid can cost and how much would I need for a full change in my car (car details given). Got a reply: 500ml of fluid for my car. Confused totally now... :Blink:
     
    Loading...
  15. Ichiban Founder Staff Team

    England CJ Leeds
    30,154
    6,392
    516
    Intruder for a properly flush 2.0 litres will be more than adequate for brakes and 500 ml is sufficient for CMC.
     
    Loading...
  16. intruder Top Contributor ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆

    United Kingdom Rokas Bristol, UK
    743
    227
    Thanks CJ. I can't believe how main dealers says different info.. So I need 2 litres... gosh. That's a lot actually. Hmmm..
     
    Loading...
  17. Brodziu Valued Contributor ★ ★ ★ ☆ ☆

    Greg Manchester
    396
    95
    I've bought 2 litres as I want to make sure there will be enough, btw I got ATE type 200 DOT 4 ;-)
     
    Loading...
  18. intruder Top Contributor ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆

    United Kingdom Rokas Bristol, UK
    743
    227
    Guys, this is from official Mugen website: "<...> All fluid replacement: two cans (1,000 ml) use."
    Why they say 1 litre then? :Unknown:
     
    Loading...
  19. Ichiban Founder Staff Team

    England CJ Leeds
    30,154
    6,392
    516
    Well they have point you can use one litre if the older fluid was the same if you are changing the make and type you want a proper flush or neglected fluid you want to use more.
     
    Loading...
  20. Ichiban Founder Staff Team

    England CJ Leeds
    30,154
    6,392
    516
    Greg that is good fluid ..
     
    Loading...