Exhaust System EGR valve gasket

Discussion in '6th Generation (1997-2002)' started by exec, Tuesday 28th Apr, 2015.

  1. exec Premium Member Club Supporter

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  2. Nighthawk Guest

    United Kingdom Richard Milton Keynes
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    Yes mate, thats the right part - the gasket is metal so you may not need to change it out obviously depending on what condition it is in. On mine, I just gave it a good clean and its been fine with no leaks or issues, but yes, thats the right part
     
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  3. exec Premium Member Club Supporter

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    Ahh I see, didnt know its metal, might leave it then since it won't have worn out like rubber. Cheers for the confirmation.
     
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  4. AndyB1976 Valued Contributor ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆

    United Kingdom Andy Aberfoyle
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    Had mine off a couple of times and not changed it, might be stuck to the bottom of the valve when you lift it off.

    The nuts are quite difficult to access, best option for me was a 1/4" drive just down to the diameter (thickness) of the extension bar as the body of the valve is slightly in the way of one of the nuts in particular.
     
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  5. exec Premium Member Club Supporter

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    Cheers Andy, think I have a 1/4" drive so hopefully won't need to buy more tools!

    Have you done the EGR port too or whatever its called. the one under the fuel rail?
     
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  6. AndyB1976 Valued Contributor ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆

    United Kingdom Andy Aberfoyle
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    Yeah I have exec, I followed a guide that alvinacord put up. Its quite straightforward, however it seemed to take me ages through fear of damaging injectors or fuel lines. I didn't follow the exact procedure of releasing the fuel pressure as I didn't have replacement washers (so I just took the fuel pump fuse out and cranked the engine in the hope of depressurising the system - not recommending this, or even if the injectors will fire with that fuse out, its just what I done)...

    I'll try and help if you have any questions, I done it last year. I'll also try and find the guide I used.

    I also struggled to separate a hose and pipe but came up with a solution of sorts..

    Place a 10mm open spanner over the hose and use it to gently twist the hose, then place an 8mm open spanner over the pipe and use the to push the hose off the pipe (this not perfect but helped me a great deal)

    58344_accord-6th-gen-1998-2002-egr-cleaning-guide-09.
     
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  7. AndyB1976 Valued Contributor ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆

    United Kingdom Andy Aberfoyle
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    Here is a pic of me using the spanners to separate a hose and pipe..twist the 10mm on the hose and push the 8mm along the pipe.

    IMAG0731_tn1.
     
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  8. AndyB1976 Valued Contributor ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆

    United Kingdom Andy Aberfoyle
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    Take it easy taking the injector rail out, I had some fuel spill (most likely due to not following the book procedure so have a rag or towel ready to spill)

    Rail and injectors coming out manifold

    IMAG0738_tn1.

    Just left the rail hanging but it is still attached to the lines (not the book method but I was extra careful not to stress of pipes or lines still attached)
    IMAG0739_tn1.
    The only nuts left to access the EGR ports....
    IMAG0740_tn1.

    Nuts off the Valve Port Plate
    IMAG0741_tn1.

    Plate off, ports exposed

    IMAG0742_tn1.

    Added a smear of fresh engine oil to the o-ring - this is another important point not the crush or roll the o-ring when reinserting the injectors

    IMAG0756_tn1.
     
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  9. exec Premium Member Club Supporter

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    Damn, that is such a faff. I assumed the injectors stay screwed to the fuel rail and just pop out the manifold bit. Did you replace all the o rings? Looking at Lings there are four each for each injector and two of them aint cheap.

    Did cleaning it actually make any difference to the running of the car?
     
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  10. AndyB1976 Valued Contributor ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆

    United Kingdom Andy Aberfoyle
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    They are not screwed to the fuel rail, just held in with the oring. Two 10mm nuts you loosen off earlier on will pull the rail back into the manifold when putting it all back, so do each side a bit at a time so you don't skew it to one side and this will seat the injectors into the rail and manifold.

    I found it a faff, mainly cause I was working on the fuel system (being unqualified and unsure lol) and access is a bit tight and awkward at the back of the engine - thats why I never done a DIY guide for this before. I believed it was just a bit too critical to mess with fuel lines and injectors using my non-official way of doing it.
     
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  11. SpeedyGee Administrator Staff Team

    England Speedy Birmingham
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    You pretty much did it correctly @AndyB1976. You want to pull the injector rail off so that the injectors stay in the injector rail and don't come out both sides (only come off from the intake mani end).

    Put them back, lube them as you did, make sure you seat them evenly and make sure you are not squashing/trapping the o rings. Being lubed with engine oil they should in OK.

    If you trap an O ring then you will spring a leak (vacuum or fuel). Vacuum if the bottom O rings aren't seated and fuel if the top O rings aren't seated.
    - - - Updated - - -
    One more thing when you put the rail back, if it is not seating correctly then you want to check for trapped O rings.
     
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