Electrical & Lights Flat Battery - P0606, P2610 - Limp Mode - help please

Discussion in '1st Generation (2004-2011)' started by Princepugh, Monday 30th Mar, 2015.

  1. Princepugh Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom David Sheffield
    81
    33
    Hiya folks – a call for help please!

    My battery went flat today after I’d sat in the car for a couple of minutes with the ignition on and engine off (assume the battery needs replacing as it was sluggish in the morning too). Breakdown put a charge in it and got the car running but it’s gone into some form of limp mode, idle is fluctuating around the 1500 RPM mark and there’s absolutely no power so had to get towed.

    The fault codes he got with his generic reader are as follows:-
    - P0606 1/4 Engine ECM/PCM Processor Fault
    - P2610 2/4 ECM/PCM Internal Engine Off Timer Performance
    - P0606 pd 3/4 Engine ECM/PCM Processor Fault
    - P2610pd 4/4 ECM/PCM Internal Engine Off Timer Performance

    He did clear them down but they can back straight away, the CEL is on solid, if memory serves.
    Car is parker up outside Gilders ready for the morning but is there anything I can do/check in the meantime?

    Don’t like the sound of the fault codes at all, sounds like fried ECU.
    Anybody help?

    Thanks in advance, David
     
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  2. SpeedyGee Administrator Staff Team

    England Speedy Birmingham
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    Your battery probably needs a good trickle charge for it to get back to full strength.

    Until you've done that I wouldn't take much notice of all those codes.
    - - - Updated - - -
    Actually reading that all again, something does seem to be up.
    But I'd still try getting the battery fully charged before doing anything else.
     
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  3. Nels Moderator Staff Team

    I agree with @SpeedyGee. Get a fully charged battery on there and then see if the codes come back.
     
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  4. Princepugh Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom David Sheffield
    81
    33
    Thanks fellas, I did think about trying to recover the battery back home on my motorbike but thought better of it in the end. The main dealer, outside which the FR-V was parked, was too busy preparing new cars to help me today (nice to hear they have their priorities right) so I’ve had to limp it to my nearest garage with Japanese car experience – that was fun with b*gger all power!

    When the car started this morning it was running as smooth as a babies on what we used to call choke but as soon as it warmed it the fluctuating throttle started. I’m rather hoping that the system has lost sight of something rather than the ECU being knacked but can’t help think it’s going to be a trip back to the dealers at some point for an ECU re-program…

    Will update with progress in due course.

    D
     
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  5. Zebster Expert Advisor ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

    United Kingdom .
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    As Speedy already said, low voltage will (temporarily) affect the ECU and therefore the general running. But the full underlying reason(s) for the flat battery should be investigated (I'm guessing the HFT, if you have one?).

    I'm horrified that you took it to a Honda dealer because the battery was flat - don't you have a battery charger? (I didn't understand how the motorcycle was involved).
     
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  6. Princepugh Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom David Sheffield
    81
    33
    The battery was flattened whilst I was away from home in the evening. The breakdown service used a battery jump pack to put some juice into the battery and the engine started fine but then started with the symptoms as described. I didn’t have the confidence to drive it anywhere as Sheffield is very hilly so we decided to tow it. It was a miserably wet evening and I got pretty wet during the course of events – the callout guy suggested he could drop the car at the dealers for investigation in the morning, then take me home. At the time this seemed like the best option and being wet and cold I was keen to get home. In the sobering light of day sat at the computer reading this forum, I can fully appreciate that the decision might not have been the best!

    Anyhow, this morning, I had a sick car a good number of miles away, a bus ride, or a motorcycle ride; and a full day of work ahead. Getting the battery from the car to either work or home was a possibility but not an easy one as I don’t have hard luggage on the bike. When I got to it, the car started fine this morning and the indicator on the battery suggested it did not need charging but the car was still limping, hence my need for assistance.

    Hope that makes sense.
     
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  7. Zebster Expert Advisor ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

    United Kingdom .
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    'Limp mode' will often persist, even after the fault has cleared - most ECUs self-clear after 3 full 'warm-up'/cool-down' cycles with no active fault present. Disconnecting the battery (negative) for around 20 minutes has always reset the fault condition on every vehicle I've known, so long as the fault has been rectified. But best to have the stored fault codes read and then deleted, so any that come back are real and relate to a current problem. Some Honda ECUs (e.g. the Bosch EDC16 fitted to the 7th Generation diesel models) store codes indefinitely until deleted, which is confusing when they all pop up when you read the stored codes!

    Apologies for not realising that you'd had to lug the battery home to charge it. I can see that would be a nuisance.

    Have you got a multimeter? It's a fairly easy thing to check for excessive parasitic drain and then pinpoint the offending circuit.

    Does your car have a Hands-free Telephone (HFT)? The Bluetooth module often develops a problem that results in an excessive battery drain, leading to a flat battery.
     
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  8. Princepugh Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom David Sheffield
    81
    33
    Really wish I'd got the car towed home now, I could have done all this stuff pretty easy from there!

    I flattened my battery very badly last year by stupidly leaving the interior light on for a day or so - I don't think it liked that at all and I've recently noticed a slightly sluggish turnover if I've been sat in the car for a short while with the ignition on but the engine off.

    The charge side must be good as I do 200 miles every Wednesday and I've not broken down on that journey so I firmly suspect the battery needs replacing and yesterday was the tipping point but you're right, I should check for a drain. No hands free, only an ipod connected to the dash 12v but I'm pretty sure that is NOT live when the ignition is completely off?

    D
     
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  9. Princepugh Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom David Sheffield
    81
    33
    Thankfully a full reset was all that was required to restore normal running, although I've replaced the battery too. To be on the safe side I'll do a parasitic drain check at the weekend.

    It's a lesson learnt from a miserable evening - thanks for the input.

    D
     
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  10. Ichiban Founder Staff Team

    England CJ Leeds
    30,129
    6,379
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    Before you go into part swapping mode just by reading the DTC's I would get the battery SOC sorted first then delete all the codes and then over the week rescan and see which come backs and then troubleshoot.

    Battery is the key here.
     
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