Standalone Projects FR-V/Edix LPG install by Speedy

Discussion in 'Project & Modification Logs' started by SpeedyGee, Monday 20th Jul, 2015.

  1. SpeedyGee Administrator Staff Team

    England Speedy Birmingham
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    I finally started the LPG install on my Edix, I had a fair few bits already in the garage which I started installing yesterday but the tank I wanted to get was still not in stock, so today I opted to go for a different tank. This should arrive tomorrow.

    Now usually I start at the back, installed the tank, the fill point and then run pipes and wires to the front. I then commence work in the engine bay, however without the tank I had to start in the engine bay.

    Now looking at the engine bay of the FR-V one would think there's loads of places to install LPG components but when you start to take into account various factors, like avoiding piping and wiring above the exhaust area, not installing the reducer/vapouriser higher than the water level of the engine etc the choices left to actually install stuff is actually quite limited.

    So I had to think long and hard to find a location for the reducer. In the end I opted for installing it just behind the air box, hanging off the bulkhead.

    Here is the reducer that I will be fitting :-

    IMG_20150719_112031.

    The location I chose to mount the reducer has other pipes hanging off the bulkhead, such as the AC and fuel supply pipes, to hang the reducer around that area I had to fabricate a bracket that would push the reducer out a couple of inches :-

    IMG_20150719_112830. IMG_20150719_113120.

    Here we are a couple of hours later with a mounted reducer and shut off valve.
    IMG_20150719_130908. IMG_20150719_130900.

    With the reducer mounted I turned my attention to drilling the holes in the inlet manifold for the LPG spuds (nozzles).
    On the K20A the front part of the inlet manifold is plastic but the part that the petrol injectors sit on it aluminum. What this means is that it needs to be taken off the car to be drilled. I know that a lot (almost all to be honest) LPG installation garages would still drill the manifold in situ. I would never do this as now matter what you do some swarf from the drilling going into the engine. I've even had one installer who owns probably the biggest LPG installation firm in Birmingham tell me that how would a customer know whether you have taken the manifold off for drilling or not. Sorry but that is just bad dishonest business practice, I would never do that. The proper way is to take the manifold off for drilling.

    With this in mind, I called it a day yesterday.

    IMG_20150719_131637. IMG_20150719_131632.
     
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  2. Nighthawk Guest

    United Kingdom Richard Milton Keynes
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    I knew it wouldn't take long for you to start on this mate :Smile: - looking forward to seeing the finished product
     
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  3. SpeedyGee Administrator Staff Team

    England Speedy Birmingham
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    It makes sense to do it now whilst the car is not in use.

    I got a little further with it today, another couple of hours spent on it to get the intake manifold off.

    Here you can see that I've removed the front part of the inlet manifold (the plastic part of it). This involved removing the six bolts, unhooking the throttle cable, unclipping and removing the brake servo vacuum pipe, the petrol EVAP purge pipe, the water coolant pipes from the IACV, unclipping all electrical connectors including the ones going to the petrol injectors and the earthing point at the back of the manifold. Finally pulling out the big belly of the intake from the engine bay.
    IMG_20150720_162220. IMG_20150720_162230.

    So next I removed the 4 bolts and 2 nuts to the manifold, pulled it forward only to find that it won't come out like that .. see for yourself :-
    IMG_20150720_170639.

    There's no space for it to come out without removing the stud bolts. To remove the studs you need to tighten up two bolts up to each other and then turn the inner bolt anti clockwise, this will start turning the stud as well

    Two bolts tightened up against each other :-
    IMG_20150720_171530.
    Here's a removed stud
    IMG_20150720_171726.

    I did the same for the other stud and the manifold then came straight up and out of the engine bay.

    That's as far as I got today. Tomorrow I will drill and install the injector spuds, add a vacuum point and install the spud for the Flashlube line.
     
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  4. DeviateDefiant Co-Founder Staff Team

    United Kingdom Leo Northants
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    Look forward to seeing just how stealthily you can get this install in :Laughing:

    ...no RRC manifold then?
     
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  5. SpeedyGee Administrator Staff Team

    England Speedy Birmingham
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    I wanted to hide the reducer under the battery tray but alas there wasn't enough space as the 5 speed AT gearbox is huge !

    The wife hasn't mentioned needing more power yet but as soon as she does I'll be sure to jump on the modding path :Rolf:
     
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  6. SpeedyGee Administrator Staff Team

    England Speedy Birmingham
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    Just to recap this is where I'd got to yesterday :-

    IMG_20150721_082923.

    Both halfs of the manifold were removed and ready for injector spud to be installed.

    Before I started any work on the inlet manifold, I decided to give it a bit of clean

    IMG_20150721_082902. IMG_20150721_082850.

    Next up drill and install four injector spuds
    IMG_20150721_090754.

    On the front half of the manifold, install a vacuum spud and flashlube spud
    IMG_20150721_094448. IMG_20150721_094431.

    With all the spuds installed both manifolds halves were now ready to install back on to the engine.

    However .... when I stood looking at the engine minus the manifolds on it ...
    IMG_20150721_082923.
    I thought to myself, this would be perfect time to do the valve clearances, the engine does sound a little tappety. With the inlet manifold removed I had clear access to get in with the feeler gauge to adjust the clearances. So I went ahead and spent a couple of hours doing the clearances. A slight diversion from what I was actually doing but a worth while move regardless. I'll talk more about the valve clearance work in the Project Log.

    After doing the clearances I got back to the task at hand of refitting the inlet manifold. Took a couple of hours but here we are with everything back together :-
    IMG_20150721_135907.

    The holes made by the spud I blocked by jumping one to another, as I wanted to start the car up just to hear the difference the valve clearances had made and quiet it was indeed.

    At this point I'm not even half way through the install yet and have already spent a good 10 hours working on the car.

    The tank and some other bits that I had ordered arrived today. I will probably install the tank and run the piping and wiring from the back as the very last step of the install now (the opposite of what I normally do).

    Next steps are to do the water plumbing and gas plumbing in the engine bay, followed by all the wiring in the engine bay.
     
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  7. Nighthawk Guest

    United Kingdom Richard Milton Keynes
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    Thats excellent stuff mate, amazes me how you do these. How long until she is finished?
     
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  8. SpeedyGee Administrator Staff Team

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    Probably another 10 hours worth of work.
     
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  9. Nels Moderator Staff Team

    Good call.
    Great work there Speedy. It won't be long before she's all done.
     
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  10. SpeedyGee Administrator Staff Team

    England Speedy Birmingham
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    Time for an update.

    Where did we get upto last time, ah yes, holes drilled in manifold and manifold refitted to engine.

    I resumed work on Saturday but started at the back, fitting the tank, the fill point and then running pipes and wiring up to the front (a job that absolutely loath).

    IMG_20150725_160909. IMG_20150725_153449. IMG_20150725_193152. IMG_20150725_173339.

    Hmmm files are taking time to upload... think I'll continue the storey tomorrow LOL
     
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  11. DeviateDefiant Co-Founder Staff Team

    United Kingdom Leo Northants
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    I think you just lazed out there mate! Left us hanging.
     
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  12. SpeedyGee Administrator Staff Team

    England Speedy Birmingham
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    Hell yeah it was well past my bed time :Grin:


    With everything complete at the back, I moved back to the engine bay to finish the last of the "plumbing", connecting the feed pipe from the tank to the reducer :-
    IMG_20150728_191523. IMG_20150728_193209.

    So this is how things looked at this stage with all the plumbing complete (excuse the poor quality picture, my phone doesn't like poor lighting conditions)
    IMG_20150725_212038.



    Start of wiring, there's a loom of about 50 wires that need to be routed and then soldered in or connected up (@RogerH69 fancy doing this for me :Tongue:)
    IMG_20150725_212222. IMG_20150726_151900. IMG_20150726_154354.

    Bracket fabbed for LPG ECU
    IMG_20150725_222615.

    This is core of the wiring work, intercepting the petrol injector loom with the wire from the LPG ECU
    Before soldering
    IMG_20150726_155112.
    After soldering
    IMG_20150726_170037.

    After tidying up. I actually ran out of the right sized trunking to go over the new wiring with. I'll order some and revisit this.
    IMG_20150726_170811.

    Other wiring work which I don't have pictures for included soldering for the wires coming from the tank, running cable inside the car and wiring up power for the LPG ECU.

    Here's what the finished bay looks like (oops fuzzy picture ... I'll try take a better one and replace this one)
    IMG_20150728_194502. IMG_20150728_194631.



    I still need to mount the Flashlube bottle but as I've found all throughout this finding appropriate space in the bay is really tricky.

    So with everything all complete (bar the Flashlube), I connected up the laptop, did the initial calibration in the garage and then hit the road to do a proper "mapping".
    This basically involves driving around, putting different loads on the engine, monitoring fuel trims and adjusting the LPG map so that it gives the correct fueling.

    Most garages these days actually skip this step out all together (saves them a good hour or so), they put a basic flat map on and let the feedback loop kinda take care of the fuel trims best that it can.
    This is not only bad for the engines long term health (could be running lean for long periods of time) but also not great for economy.

    With the mapping now done, I took her for a quick cruise around the countryside (@DeviateDefiant knows the routes I am talking about :Tongue:) and can confirm that she is running sweetly on LPG.

    Why bother with LPG I hear you ask, quite simple.... fuel savings of roughly around 50% compared to running on petrol and when you can install the system yourself to a well decent standard, well why not huh :Grin:
     
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  13. Nels Moderator Staff Team

    If you've got it. flaunt it! :biceps:
     
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  14. Nighthawk Guest

    United Kingdom Richard Milton Keynes
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    Fantastic job mate, nicely done.
     
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  15. SpeedyGee Administrator Staff Team

    England Speedy Birmingham
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    Thanks @Nighthawk.

    Overall its taken about 25 hours which is quite a lengthy install, I blame the lack of ideal space to mount stuff. Looking at the bay you see lots of open space but when you take into account requirements such as avoiding the area above the exhaust and being lower than the water tank header etc the options start to become limited.

    Of course not everyone follows such common sense approaches, have a look at this monstrosity of an install



    Parts just spewed everywhere, injectors miles away from the manifold, wiring dangling over the exhaust !!!! No trunking used over wiring ! The list goes on LOL