Suspension, Steering and Brakes Front brakes diagrma

Discussion in '7th Generation (2003-2008) [Acura TSX]' started by Doc, Wednesday 20th Jun, 2012.

  1. Doc Expert Advisor ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

    Matt Peterborough
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    Front brakes diagram

    I'm planning on stripping and cleaning my front brakes today but can't seem to find the exploded diagram that I'm sure I've seen on here before detailing parts and bolt torques. I've used the search function but can't locate it. Maybe it was on the Wiki.

    Can anyone point me in the right direction?

    Cheers.
     
    Last edited: Saturday 7th Jul, 2012
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  2. Doc Expert Advisor ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

    Matt Peterborough
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    Don't worry just found it. :Smile:
     
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  3. Ichiban Founder Staff Team

    England CJ Leeds
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  4. Doc Expert Advisor ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

    Matt Peterborough
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    Cheers, it threw me because I was looking for one specifically for the 7th Generation.

    Well I've spent a couple of hours today giving my front callipers, carriers, pads and pins a good going over with a wire brush and copper greased it all on re-assembly. Glad I did they were quite dusty but still cleaned up quite easily. So now planning on doing the rears as well.

    I cleaned the slider pins (they were the worst) with a little wire wool to remove the black marks and get them smooth again. But when I took them out the calliper and also when I refitted them I noticed they were a bit tight in the rubber guides (not as much on the refit due to being clean). They are newer then previous callipers I've worked on, so the rubbers aren't as worn, so I'd expect them to be tighter. And also when I took the car for a test drive the callipers weren't sticking on or anything so it's all good.

    Now, I've always been steered away from using standard grease or copper grease on carrier pins because the brake dust sticks to it and the grease goes lumpy causing the callipers to stick, and this advice has always worked. But I was wondering if anyone else puts some kind of oil or grease on the pins just to help the calliper slide on them a little easier, and if so what? Or should I leave them alone as they work and keep up with the annual strip and clean?
     
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  5. Ichiban Founder Staff Team

    England CJ Leeds
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    I use the Honda Molykote M77 grease. Superb stuff
     
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  6. SayamaAccord Top Contributor ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆

    One of those debated topics this...

    I used red rubber grease on the sliders when I did my brakes a few weeks ago and they have worked perfectly...the occasional binding scraping and clunking I had been getting (and from more than one wheel) has completely gone.

    I think an issue is that some greases degrade the rubber. Having said that I used black lithium grease for a few years on the 6th Generation and it didn't seem to harm it.
     
  7. AccordCU2 Expert Advisor ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

    When CJ changed brakes on my car he used Molykote M77 grease i think.I bought it from Holdcroft.
     
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  8. Ichiban Founder Staff Team

    England CJ Leeds
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    My personal take on this red grease yes in theory it saves the rubber boots, but it shelf life is rubbish. The heat generated by the brakes prematurely dries the red grease causing the the sliders to stick.!!

    The M77 does not harm the boots from what I have seen, I will never use red grease on sliders again,I rather have free sliders than jammed ones.

    BTW Honda does not list red grease in its repair process it has now been changed to M77.
     
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  9. SayamaAccord Top Contributor ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆

    Been using the red stuff for about 3 years now without any probs personally...depends how much you light up your brakes maybe :Smile:
     
  10. Ichiban Founder Staff Team

    England CJ Leeds
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    Light up is the key here ! :Wink: I do a lot of hard and short braking and yes it will generate a lot of heat.

    Edit M77 shows no sign of drying plenty of lube still left.
     
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  11. Doc Expert Advisor ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

    Matt Peterborough
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    The M77 sounds like exactly what I'm after cheers guys. I think I'll run my car for a couple of days to see if they show any signs of binding. But I can see me buying some M77 as the pads do seem to generate a lot of dust. I'll need a pad change in a couple of months anyway so will definitely apply some then if I haven't done already.

    Personally I have found if they are greased it dries and causes more problems than not applying it in the 1st place. The only time I've had them greased was on an previous car that repeatedly kept sticking on the slider pins. And then my mechanic used an incredibly thin grease that didn't dry and buffed the pins smooth which solved the problem. So I knew there was something available but had no idea what it is or where to get it.

    I tend to work my brakes quite hard. I have been known to destroy a brand new set of discs after 2 months due to braking a little too hard. The kicker was when my mechanic sent them back to the manufacturer thinking they were faulty, only for the manufacturer to x-ray them and check the colour temps in the metal. The highest temp they were recorded as cooling down from was over 800 degrees. So under braking they would have been over 900 degrees and glowing red hot. Suffice to say the warranty was void. :Whistle:After a telling off from my mechanic I upgraded to EBC discs and pads which solved the problem. :Smile:
     
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  12. Doc Expert Advisor ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

    Matt Peterborough
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    Quick update. Well after stripping and cleaning my front brakes it seems the vibration I was experiencing has returned.

    Originally the problem became noticeable after having my front brakes cleaned, so I knew this was the root cause. I was experiencing a vibration while driving and braking. After finally finding the time to strip and clean the brakes thoroughly the vibration while driving disappeared. But I am still experiencing a vibration while braking. The slider pins are still not greased and the brakes are not binding as the disc temps are both low and even after driving. The car has only just covered 33k miles but the discs have already developed lips.

    So my conclusion is the previous owner has hammered the brakes and warped the discs slightly, and as the warping had already started my continuing use is causing the problem to quickly get worse. The pads are currently about the same thickness as the back plate which I know is hindering heat dissipation away from the disc further adding to the problem. So as soon as funds allow my next job will be to replace the discs and pads.
     
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  13. Ichiban Founder Staff Team

    England CJ Leeds
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    The diesel are heavy on the brake wear Doc. The excessive front end weight of the diesel and hard braking will not go it any good.

    The disc will develop lips at that mileage, if you get dual piston calipers the bite will be harder the life of the disc slight prolonger. Helen 2004 car had way better brakes and lower wear. Mine well don't ask they are caned.
     
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  14. Doc Expert Advisor ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

    Matt Peterborough
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    The amount of wear seemed excessive for for the mileage its covered from my previous experience, but all my previous cars have been petrol. But if you say that having those lips is normal for the diesel on that mileage well that puts my mind at ease a bit for the abuse I thought it might have suffered from the previous owner. The Accord does brake a lot better than my previous cars and the added diesel weight would make sense.

    By the dual piston I take it you're talking about the ATR caliper conversion? You say they last longer, is that because of the bigger discs and pad surface area? I thought the harder braking with dual pistons would mean they would wear quicker?
     
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  15. Nav Senior Member ★ ★ ☆ ☆ ☆

    What if I use copper grease on those pins.. is that bad.?? Or general lithium based grease..any help..can they fail ur MOT if the pads are squeeling like a pig...
    I.asked Brindley Honda for some Molycote 77(as HH is a mission from where I am and need this brake pads changed today evening) they had no idea what I was talking about. And they don't sell any.
     
    Last edited: Tuesday 24th Jul, 2012
  16. Ichiban Founder Staff Team

    England CJ Leeds
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    Last edited by a moderator: Sunday 23rd Feb, 2014
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  17. Nav Senior Member ★ ★ ☆ ☆ ☆

    Sorry guys, if this was discussed before.. can't seem to.find it here.. I am usi.g me phone to browse...
    My question.. I can see its a hex Allen key that you need to use to take the calipers off.. just to confirm is it size 7 they use... I bought a Allen key set and it went from 6-8, no 7. Just wondering if what I need is 7 before I buy the from online. Local halfords dosent seem to have one...
     
  18. Ichiban Founder Staff Team

    England CJ