Suspension, Steering and Brakes front lower ball joint boots

Discussion in '1st Generation (2004-2011)' started by neil graham, Monday 28th Sep, 2015.

  1. neil graham Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    the rubber boots on the lower front ball joints have been picked up in FR-V 2.2 diesel MOT as cracked suggesting replace just the boots. You can buy a generic rubber with a 12mm small hole 36.5mm big end but can you pull the old rubber off and puch on new rubber?. Internet suggests Honda replace the whole arm cause the ball joint is pressed in. Any advice?
     
  2. TZR Junior Member ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom TysonZ London
    6
    5
    Generic ones should work ok if they measure up fine. Split the ball joint from the lower arm, pull old boot off, check for damage (you might need to replace the whole joint), relube up with some grease and then install the new boot. The spring clips that hold on the boot can be a bit fiddly but you'll get there in the end.

    I'm not sure what options are available for new ball joints if yours are stuffed. Some times Honda won't sell just the ball joint (they sell the whole hub) and there aren't always aftermarket options available.
     
  3. DieselPower Senior Member ★ ★ ☆ ☆ ☆

    Nahh..you can buy a new ball joint and press out the old one. Garages just replace the arm because its easier.
     
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  4. neil graham Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    THKS FOR REPLY found theses http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121765486051
    Reading your email I have to press the joint out of the control arm to change the rubber?? or can I under the bottom nut and access the 2 circlips to change the rubber without pressing out. Thinking if you press bash the part out you will knacker it. Then it would be better to buy a new joint £25 of ebay if they fit? Read about CR-V joints failing and wheels coming off.
     
  5. SpeedyGee Administrator Staff Team

    England Speedy Birmingham
    14,999
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    Without seeing the ball joint out of the arm, you won't know if the complete ball joint needs replacing or just the boot.

    The only advantage of just doing the boot is that you retain the OEM ball joint.

    However, a ball joint is a critical item for the safety of a car, personally I would default to replacing the whole ball joint.
     
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  6. Ichiban Founder Staff Team

    England CJ Leeds
    30,134
    6,389
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    Correct. but the are PIA as they seize and you have to take a torch to them if they don't budge. That why they take the easier option.
     
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  7. neil graham Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    I'm spending a lot of on this FR-V. DId the clutch main dealer. All the suspension bits get picked up droplinks d bushes joint rubbers etc. Spit a CV joint rubber so goin to replace it and do the ball joint rubber at the same time with drop link. Got to find someone who doesn't bash it to pieces rare these days. Some one with press to get the ball joint out replace the rubber then press it back in. Wouldn't trust 1 of the £25 ebay joints.
     
  8. jivetalkin Junior Member ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom John Sheffield
    15
    9
    Due to a horrendous knocking noise from both sides of the car, I decided to change the lower ball joints today. i set out with all the correct tools, including a 36mm socket for the hub nut and a ball joint press. I did take a chance on the Ebay ball joints at £25 each or £36 a pair and to be honest they do look OK, time will tell. OK so my FR-V is from Scotland so it has probably had far more salt corrosion than most. All I can say is that this is not a job that is easy, I am a reasonably skilled amateur but everything was seized solid. I managed to break 2 ball joint splitters trying to remove the ball joint from the control arm and in the end I had to grind the old ball joint in half with my cut off saw. I then removed the control arm from the car and tried to press out what was left of the threaded bit out, no joy! I decided to remove the other side which was exactly the same story. Then phase two was to remove the ball joint upper from the hub. It turns out that my ball joint press was useless as you cannot actually get a 'shim' all the way round the hub to remove it, worryingly, one side bashed out very easily with a hammer, and there was no circlip underneath??? Deciding my skill and tools were not enough I have removed the hubs and both control arms where they are currently being attended to by a local engineer in his shed (thank God for these home engineers) He is fabricating me a tool so I can press the ball joints in using a frame and threaded bar to pull into the hub, I await the return.

    I can possibly see now, why my local garage gave me an estimate of 'If it goes well, £80 + parts, if it goes wrong it will be nearer £400'. By all accounts this is going to cost me about 4 hours labour £40 to the engineer for removing the seized ball joints and £10 for the tool he is making, plus £10 for a 36mm socket. I will say however as a word of warning that without my cut off saw I would have fell down at the first hurdle so I now probably wish I'd have bought the Honda ball joints, however £80 each is a lot of money!
     
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  9. RobsyUK Valued Contributor ★ ★ ★ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Rob Milton Keynes
    405
    143
    I purchased complete lower arms off eBay for my cavalier as the ball joins and other rubbers were dead.
    They passed the MOT but within weeks they began splitting.
    Hopefully yours won't be as rubbish
     
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  10. SpeedyGee Administrator Staff Team

    England Speedy Birmingham
    14,999
    5,593
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    Ball joints can be a real ball ache.

    Will be interesting to see what tool your engineer friend comes up with. Please do post pics of it.
     
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  11. jivetalkin Junior Member ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom John Sheffield
    15
    9
    Well, finished at half eight, so a good half day spent. The FR-V ball joints do not have clearance above to use a ball joint press. For just £20 not £40 as previously posted (he felt sorry for me) he removed the 2 lower seized ball joints, or what was left after my grinding, and the top part from the hub carrier. In addition, between us we designed and he built a puller using two pieces of box section steel and a scaffolding pole with 2 big bolts with washers and nuts. Result? In just 15 minutes 2 new balljoints squeezed into position. I will of course add a photo when I've got sorted. Sorry I did not take pics of this task. But my patience ran out at 12.00 today!!! I will say though that the aftermarket joints worryingly have too long a shaft so when pressed in the circuit doesn't rest on the lower arm and there is a 2-3mm gap, although I'm hoping the joints stay in place, after all Honda do not have any circlips on the original part. Also the castle nut and split pin do not meet. The whole for the pin is above the castle so I've used a split pin and bent the eye up to meet a turret so to speak. We shall see what happens.......
     
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  12. foursail Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    they are a major pia i attempted one last year and gave up pressing it back in took it to dealer to finish off. They did quote me a complete new hub to change but they fitted a joint i got off ebay and upto now its been fine. I know i might need other side doing soon and it will be a garage job. changing the rubber will deffo be the easiest option if can manage it.