Suspension, Steering and Brakes Handbrake adjust

Discussion in '8th Generation (2008-2015) [Acura TSX]' started by John Hamer, Friday 3rd Jun, 2016.

  1. John Hamer Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom John Waltham Abbey
    Got this far but gave in, book says remove mat, then open the flap tried with screw driver under tabs but no movement, how much force is needed?

  2. scotsgent Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    Scotland Terry Fort William
    I recently adjusted the handbrake cable.

    Despite what the book tells you there is a bit more to it than just lifting the inspection trap. I first attempted what you are describing and found it impossible to make the adjustment.

    Yes, the clips are tight, I used a wee stubby flat-edged screw driver, an allen key (used like a hook) might work. Just pull, they will come.

    Here's what I eventually did:

    1) Lift the mat in the cubby, access the trap door and unclip it and on either side of the door you will find a Philips screw, remove these.

    2) Remove the internal section of the console, that is to say the entire section from in-front of the gear lever to the front wall of the cubby including the drinks holders. This is a one-piece unit and just clips up and out with care. Unclip the front first and then work down either side.

    To remove it fully you will need to remove the knob of the gear lever. Under the leather gaiter at its highest point, you will feel a hard ring. Grip this with both hands and vigorously push down, the ring will 'snap' out of its fixing, This then reveals a locking collar, undo this with a 17mm spanner and then unscrew the knob along with the locking ring and then remove the panel by feeding it through what's left of the gear lever. This whole operation needs to take no more than say 20 minutes and from the comfort of the passenger seat!

    3) With the clipped section removed you can easily see and access the electrical connection behind the bank of auxiliary sockets in the cubby. Disconnect these and then just lift the bank out of the cubby, attached to this is the trap-door so you are now left with a larger sized access window with no obstruction.

    You now have the full size of the 'window' to work into and what's more; the area where the bank of switches was now allows extra light into the area and there is no need to use a torch (which was a complication of my first attempts since for me at least, the only way of holding it was in my teeth).

    4) You will observe that the adjuster is a barrel with a nut on the rear end. The forward end disappears under metal-work but it obvious that there must be a wee barrel at right angles and the adjuster barrel has a 'detent' cut out of it to act as a tension/lock nut.
    This means that the barrel really needs to be undone with the spanner in 'sweeps' of 180 degrees, quite impossible, but there is a 'work-around'.

    You will need a substantial pair of long nosed pliers, substantial not because you will be applying any great force but long enough so that you can grip the barrel forward of the nut whilst your hand is outside the cubby area leaving the cubby free for the other hand operating the spanner. My pliers are about 11" long.

    5) Here's the technique: You will need a long pair of long-nosed pliers and a 12 mm ring or ratchet spanner (I managed easily with an ordinary ring spanner).

    Reach down with the pliers and grip the barrel forward of the nut, pull the barrel up as far as it will come so it is as near you as possible. Thread the ring spanner over the end of the adjustment cable and onto the nut. Grip the barrel with light/moderate pressure. Now turn the nut, Because of lack of 'swinging' room, you will only manage about one-third of a turn, at which point you just grip the barrel harder, holding it stationary in this position with the pliers and then re-adjust the spanner for another turn, do this 3 times (ish) and you have made a full turn of the adjuster and you can easily overcome the tendency of the barrel to return back to its original position, (because of the detent effect) with moderate pressure of the pliers.

    Under normal conditions of just taking up slack on a stretched cable probably 2 or 3 turns will suffice, The actual adjustment will take 3 or 4 minutes. A ratchet spanner will make it even simpler, I would think.

    6) Reconnect the electrical connections to the rear of the switch bank and then replace it back in the cubby and re-screw the two Philips screws then snap shut the trap-door.

    7) Replace the console section (just snaps back in) and replace the locking ring and knob on the gear lever and spanner it tight before pushing the gaiter ring up into place.

    This is all done from the comfort of the passenger seat. Once you get going its all pretty intuitive. Its actually quite a pleasant job and it will all be done in 45 minutes.

    You will need:
    Philips screwdriver. Plastic panel priser's. 17mm open ended spanner
    Long, (say 11") long nose pliers. 12mm ring spanner (ratchet spanner best)
    Maybe a wee tube of silicone grease to lubricate the panel clips so they are easier to remove next time?

    Cheers, Terry
    jimjams and legend-ary like this.
  3. John Hamer Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom John Waltham Abbey
    Thank you for that comprehensive reply, I think I will leave the cable as is and take up the slack in the brake drums (SOUNDS A LOT EASIER)
  4. scotsgent Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    Scotland Terry Fort William

    It sounds much more complicated than it actually is - once you start into it, it all comes pretty intuitively.

    Cheers, Terry
  5. legend-ary Moderator Staff Team

    IF only you had a few photos of the process this would be a fantastic source to be submitted as a DIY guide.
  6. julekasMobilek Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    Lithuania Julius Vilnius
    Hello, you cannot adjust your handbrake if the problem is in the handbrake handle itself, rather then in drums shoes.

    In drums you can only adjust minor adjustments, how pads glide in the drum
    while adjusting handbrake in center console you can adjust how far will travel your brake handle, if the handle is loose, then with few twist you can adjust that, also if you need more than 8 clicks to engange handbrake, you also need that adjustment.
    It is not very hard job, just more patiente and it will be ok. the perfect tool is this: