Service & Maintenance Has anyone done their own FR-V service?

Discussion in '1st Generation (2004-2011)' started by mike787, Saturday 9th Mar, 2013.

  1. mike787 Banned ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    It’s that time where the car needs a service. I have checked with a main dealer and I nearly passed out when they asked for £405 for a major service! I have sourced a superb deal with a main dealer elsewhere in the UK and bought enough genuine Honda parts to do three years of servicing. For a mere £156 I got 3 oil filters, two air filters enough brake fluid to do two changes, a set of iridium plugs, 4 pollen filters and 4 sump plug washers delivered to my door! I assume access to the oil filter is by underneath the engine and to the rear as I can’t see it from above. The air filter looks easy enough to do and I think the pollen filters are behind the glove box. Does anyone out there have any words of advice/caution before I do this? I get Mobil1 from Costco and it is as cheap as chips from them.
     
  2. Ichiban Founder Staff Team

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    Mike when do yo plan to do the self service? I could help out with some pointers.
     
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  3. mike787 Banned ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    Thanks for the reply, I hope to do it sometime over the next two weeks. I have seen some drawings on the forum showing the spark plug coils being disconnected before trying to take out the plugs. I can’t find any info at all where the oil filter is, so I guess it is accessed from underneath and to the rear. The pollen filter looks as though it’s behind the glove compartment and a sod to get to, lending itself to breaking plastic clips etc. Air filter is obvious, but not sure if wires have to be disconnected or if it will swing over. My car is a grey import and was originally produced for Cyprus, so I have no idea what type of plugs were originally fitted. I have gone for iridium so that I have peace of mind for the next 70k, (in theory), it may be the case I take out those fitted and find iridium have been fitted! The car has 18k mikes on the clock and is an 09 reg. I bought it because I have to move a 90yr old around, not because I have children. With the privacy glass fitted it is called ‘the ambulance’. I really miss my 08 diesel Civic, but he moaned he didn’t have enough room in the back so it had to be changed. He couldn’t get into a CR-V, so I found this good example and insurance was no problem at all.
     
  4. Ichiban Founder Staff Team

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    No problem, buddy I will post something up later on today.. just going to be a good boy and spend some time with my ma. :telloff:
     
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  5. Ichiban Founder Staff Team

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    Engine Oil Replacement

    • Warm up the engine.
    • Remove the drain bolt (A), and drain the engine oil.
    • Reinstall the drain bolt with a new washer (B).
    FRV Engine oil repalcement BE1 AOCUK.JPG

    Oil capacity

    At Oil Change: 3.5 Liters
    At Oil Change including Filter: 3.7 Liters
    After Engine Overhaul: 4.5 Liters

    FRV Engine oil repalcement BE1 AOCUK-2.JPG

    Engine Oil Filter Replacement

    • Remove the oil filter with the oil filter wrench.
    • Inspect the filter to make sure the rubber seal is not stuck to the oil filter seating surface of the engine.
    • Inspect the threads (A) and rubber seal (B) on the new filter. Clean the seat on the oil pan, then apply a light coat of new engine oil to the filter rubber seal. Use only filters with a built-in bypass system.
    • Install the oil filter by hand.

    FRV Engine oil filter repalcement BE1 AOCUK.JPG


    • After the rubber seal seats, tighten the oil filter clockwise with the oil filter wrench. Tighten: 3/4 Turn Clockwise Tightening Torque: 12 N·m (1.2 kgf·m, 8.7 lbf·ft)

    FRV Engine oil filter repalcement BE1 AOCUK 2.JPG

    Dust and Pollen Filter Replacement


    The dust and pollen filter should be replaced every 48,000 km (30,000 miles) or 24 months, whichever comes first. I would do it yearly. Replace the filter more often if the airflow is less than usual, or if the vehicle is driven in areas that have high concentrations of soot from industry or diesel powered vehicles. :lol:


    • Take care not to scratch the dashboard and related parts.
    • Remove the bolts.

    FRV pollen filter repalcement BE1 AOCUK 1.JPG



    • While holding the glove box (A), release the glove box stop portions (B) on both sides from the dashboard by pushing them inside, then remove the glove box.
    FRV pollen filter repalcement BE1 AOCUK 2.JPG



    • Open the glove box.
    • Remove the glove box stop on each side, then let the glove box hang down.
    • Remove the filter lid (A) from the blower unit, then pull out the first dust and pollen filter (B).
    • Slide the second filter (C) to the eft, and pull it out.
    FRV pollen filter repalcement BE1 AOCUK 3.JPG


    • Remove the filter (A) from the housing (B), and replace the filter.
    • Install the filter in the reverse order of removal. Make sure that there is no air leaking out of the evaporator

    FRV pollen filter repalcement BE1 AOCUK 4.JPG


    Install the glove box in the reverse order of removal.

    Air Filter change


    • Open the air cleaner housing cover (A).
    • Remove the air cleaner element (B) from the air cleaner housing (C).
    • Check the air cleaner element for damage or clogging. If there is damage or clogging, replace the air cleaner element.


    NOTE: Do not use compressed air to clean the air cleaner element.
    BE1 Air Filter AOCUK.JPG

    Replace Spark Plugs

    To get access to plug you need to remove the four coils , ensure you fit the coil back from where it was removed.


    • Disconnect the ignition coil connectors (A), then remove the ignition coils (B).
    • Install the ignition coils in the reverse order of removal.
    BE1 ignition coil AOCUK.JPG
     
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  6. mike787 Banned ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    Thanks for the posting IchibanAccord, very much appreciated. I’ll get under and have a look to see if I need a tool to remove the filter or if I can get my shovel hands in there! Is it best to disconnect the wiring before taking off the spark plug connectors? Do you know if the air filter housing splits without having to disconnect anything or is it best practice to disconnect wires etc? I don’t like messing with brake fluid, so I’ll get a local mechanic to change that. I understand the fuel filter is in the tank and shouldn’t need changing.
     
  7. Ichiban Founder Staff Team

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    Mike give it a try first see where you get along , I don't want to come across as negative if you haven't done things like this before then you will need assistance as a safe pair of eyes to guide you.

    I am all for owners doing DIY but if the basics are not there you will do more damage then its worth and that is not a good way to proceed.
     
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  8. mike787 Banned ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    Hi IchibanAccord, I understand and agree with what you say. I have done numerous oil and filter changes over the years. Only recently, as I have been able to buy newer cars which have progressed with technical advances, have I used dealers to do the work. I note how often dealers actually look at service records and go on to increase their offer on a value of a car, it doesn’t add that much, if anything. If I can show by purchase receipt that I have used genuine parts from a main dealer and simply done minor things myself then I don’t think any buyer would worry about that. This car will probably be sold to a private buyer rather than traded in. There is no getting round the fact that having been quoted £405 for a main service, I have confidence that I am able of look at pads etc to see if they are badly worn and can do the oil and filter changes, plus it is due it’s MOT very soon and a tester will also run his eye over it. Looking in the engine bay doesn’t look too bad, I was seeking any words of advice and verify the location of, and how to get to, some components. Some cars have covers over everything and to locate a component may need removal of numerous bits and pieces. The FR-V doesn’t look too bad.
     
  9. Ichiban Founder Staff Team

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    Good that's out of the way, I have a proper picture of your skill you need to remove the clips from the ignition coils as there isn't sufficient slack on the wires for them to removed attached to the coil. The air filter does requires some bits to be removed and disconnected prior to dismantling so I will upload the process for you.

    I will also post the service schedule for your BE1 and also have a look at this for your guide http://hondakarma.com/posts/24706/ so you have defined process to follow.

    As for the HFSH having no value I have to strongly disagree with it on on levels. I am happy to discuss this at lengths but it has to be a valid arguments rather than just generalisation. if you want please start the debate on the forum it will be a good topic to discuss.


    if you need anything else just ask, don't be shy.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Sunday 23rd Feb, 2014
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  10. mike787 Banned ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    Once again, thanks for the posting. Perhaps my comment of little value for the service history is a tad severe, perhaps I should have said, cost to obtain a service history is only partially recouped. I agree a discussion on the topic may generate some interesting comments and views. In these times of austerity, every little bit counts! I’ll keep an eye out for the post on the air filter removal. You are very helpful, it is greatly appreciated.
     
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  11. mike787 Banned ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    Hi IchibanAccord, the service has been SO easy, the pollen filters are a doddle to get to, oil, no problems but I did need to use a filter wrench, my hand would not get in there. Just hoping you can find time to post the info on the air filter. I’ll take a spark plug out and see what has been fitted.
     
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  12. Ichiban Founder Staff Team

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    I will get the airfilter guide up this afternoon bud.

    Did you take any pictures for the DIY to supplement this guide?
     
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  13. Ichiban Founder Staff Team

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    Update the thread for you the air filter panel removal is easy it only when you removing the whole air cleaner box you have to dismantle stuff. So i had my wires crossed.

    it relatively easy swap