Engine & Gearbox help with a decision on clutch replacement

Discussion in '7th Generation (2003-2008) [Acura TSX]' started by Dan, Tuesday 19th Jul, 2016.

  1. Dan Senior Member ★ ★ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Dan Oldbury
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    Hi all

    For some time i knew the clutch needed doing on my 2.4 petrol. The master cylinder is also clicking like mad and getting worse.

    I've been quoted £593 all in at a1 clutches in tipton and they can do the job tomorrow. The breakdown is

    £325 for clutch.
    £94 for slave cylinder
    £174 for master cylinder

    I need to make a decision. Its alot of money but does need doing.

    However given my car is burning oil too, and has rust on the rear arches....

    This was meant to be a car i didnt need to spend any money on. Im struggling to decide what to do.
     
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  2. Ichiban Founder Staff Team

    England CJ Leeds
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    There is no need for a slave cylinder personally.
     
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  3. Dan Senior Member ★ ★ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Dan Oldbury
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    I thought i may as well get it done at the same time given it will be as old as the other components.
     
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  4. Accord_N22 Top Contributor ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆

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    A friend of mine has used A1 clutches and they were a bunch of monkeys - similar species to kwik fit.
    His car was never the same, clutch started to slip after a couple months. It turned out they didnt align the clutch properly.
    They denied the whole thing and said the clutch was fine.
    My mate ended up selling the car in the end and made a huge loss.
    if you know someone there then its not to bad but I personally would touch them.

    I would just use the car - a clutch wearing would totally stop the use of a car - it would gradually get harder to drive.
    Personally i would just drive the car untill it becomes unbearable and save up he pennies in the mean time.
    Then buy another car of similar value.
     
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  5. Dan Senior Member ★ ★ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Dan Oldbury
    187
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    I've had a good hunt around for reviews and to be honest the place generally gets good feedback. It would be double the price at a dealer. Its a risk getting it done anywhere isnt it.

    140k on original clutch as far as i can tell.

    I paid £1400 for the car back in december, i think id struggle to sell it now without taking a huge loss anyway.

    Im begining to regret buying the car now. My old diesel mondeo was costing me a grand per year in maintenance and had done 200k. This car was supposed to be chesper to run overall being a petrol and a honda.

    Really tough decision.
     
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  6. legend-ary Moderator Staff Team

    United Kingdom Legend The Big Smoke
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    I think it's up for you to decide what you want to do with the car.

    Normally I would say sell the car and buy another in better condition but what makes you think you won't fail to identify issues with the new one too as you clearly failed to see the rust and dodgy clutch with this one.

    In this case I would say it's better the devil you know. Fix the issues and keep it for long. There are many other workshops between A1 and Dealership so might be worth investigating other options.
     
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  7. Dan Senior Member ★ ★ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Dan Oldbury
    187
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    I know there are lots of workshops, but I won't know any of them from Adam. The only place recommended is Holdcroft, but will be more expensive and is a good drive too.

    I had a 45 minute test drive on the car, there were no clutch squeals or squeeks then at all, and no pedal creaks and groans. It steadily appeared and got worse. I did know the clutch hadn't been done when I bought it, but it drove fine so I thought it would be ok. The rust was a couple spots that I was planning to sort out myself. Since realised it was a much bigger issue. I shouldn't have bought it, and I am inexperienced, but I was relying on the advice that Honda's were pretty much bullet proof and put alot of trust in that. There also weren't many about to choose from.

    I have made a video so you guys can hear the sound of the clutch pedal. I stuffed a bit of grease in just now and its quietened the groan, but I still get a loud click at the top of pedal travel. It could be the pedal not the master cyl. Opinions really appreciated before I dump a few hundred quid on this.



    I'm not sure I could sell it in this condition, probably best I could hope for would be a good PX price on a more expensive car at a dealer on finance, if I don't do the work.
     
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  8. K24 CL9 GUY Premium Member Club Supporter

    United Kingdom Guy Gloucester
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    I feel your pain with this as went through it all myself and actually had to replace it twice as like above don't think was aligned properly. I replaced pedal, master, slave, clutch and fly to then a year later replace the master and clutch again :-(
     
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  9. legend-ary Moderator Staff Team

    United Kingdom Legend The Big Smoke
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    A 2nd hand car is only as good as the owner has kept it. A neglected, thrashed car, no matter how inherently reliable it is, will let you down if it has been neglected. Jazz is the most reliable car in UK for God know how many years yet there are are some seriously dodgy ones out there so although I do understand that you put a lot of faith in the brand but sadly were sold a sub standard car IF it is really as bad as it sounds.

    A lot of times we expect a bit too much and I myself am guilty of it too. A £10,000 car that I bought for £800... 13 years, 3 owners and 100,000 miles later won't be as tight and squeak free as it once was. A lot of times It's about managing expectations.

    If the clutch is not slipping try and forget about it and keep driving until it does properly. We can only give you our thought process, it's you who has to live with a failing car and the consequences of a devalued part ex.
     
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  10. Dan Senior Member ★ ★ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Dan Oldbury
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    It had lots of service history with it, various repairs on the suspension, brakes etc, new rad, full book of stamps. The MOT history was really good too. I tried to be thorough.

    I think though in hindsight that the services have all been the minimum possible work every time, rather than the full manufacturer recommendations. For example, it appears the transmission fluid nor clutch nor brake fluid had ever been changed. I did the clutch fluid myself a few months ago - even that was awkward getting to the bleed nipple behind the intake manifold. My level of skill ends there.

    You are dead right about managing expectations. It was a £1400 car, at least £500 to £1000 cheaper than almost all of the other ones on sale when I was looking. So I guess I got what I paid for.

    I was hoping to get by for 3 years with absolute minimum outlay. I was tempted to get the rust patched, but forced myself not to take the plunge. Now its the same with the clutch.

    It isn't slipping. If I pull away at highish revs and hold a certain clutch bite, I get a bit of squeal from the thrust bearing (?), but no slipping at all. The car sometimes bogs down on pull away but I think that's because I try and pull away on minimal revs.

    And the constant clutch click in that video every time I change gear - which may even be the pedal not the master cylinder.


    I probably should wait until I am certain what I want to do with it but I hate living with the risk too.
     
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  11. Beefy Expert Advisor ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

    United Kingdom Stoke
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    When you bought the car it had 140k on the clock? And you thought you wouldn't have to spend much? Hondas are good cars but a bit of perspective wouldn't go a miss. when you pay £1400 for a car of that age and mirage you need to factor in these things unfortunately. Components like a clutch can kill off a car like yours as you are finding out. Is it drivable? If so be willing to take a hit and sell it on. Your issue is then however if you can't afford a better motor you could end up with another Lemmon.
     
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  12. Pottermus Valued Contributor ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

    Sorry to be blunt but you need to spend £25K on a brand new car if you don't want the cost of upkeep every month or two.

    It's part and parcel of owning a car that's 15 years old and has done 150K.

    You can save yourself £94 by not bothering to change the slave cylinder as it doesn't need doing.
     
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  13. Dan Senior Member ★ ★ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Dan Oldbury
    187
    16
    134k when I bought it back in December, I've done 6k in it.

    The 200k diesel mondeo I had before was costing me about £1k per annum. I had had it 10 years. I felt it was at end of life (electrics were going, and it was going through PAS pumps and tyres like they were going out of fashion). I didn't want to spend much because I'm saving for a house deposit. Can't win unless i spend a great deal more - I do realise that.

    The difficulty I'm having is deciding whether or not to spend money now. Like you say, any car I buy is going to be a risk. The diesel mondeo I referred to above, an ex co car done 90k, needed a new DMF within a year of me owning it at nearly a grand.
     
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  14. legend-ary Moderator Staff Team

    United Kingdom Legend The Big Smoke
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    If it ain't broke don't fix it.
     
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  15. Pottermus Valued Contributor ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

    The DMF for my X-Type cost £170. You need to shop around lol.
     
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  16. Nighthawk Guest

    United Kingdom Richard Milton Keynes
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    When I got my Accord, she needed the clutch being done - £1200 it cost in total due to DMF. Manifold went on her, but replaced for free under warranty and the VSA modulator went - £150 quid for a refurbed one which took an hour to change out in the garage with basic tools. I have had the clicking clutch pedal and changed both the master and the slave (slave had a crack in it which I found out when I removed it). The car was 2.5 yrs old when I bought it with 50k on the clock.

    Master cylinder is perfectly changable by yourself (I've done it three times now, twice on mine, and once on @DeviateDefiant car.) Slave is incredibly easy is you wished to do that too.

    Clutch - wear and tear on any car unfortunately. The CTDi are expensive. Id change the master personally yourself and then take it to them to change the clutch. No need to replace the slave unless its giving trouble like mine was.
     
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  17. Dan Senior Member ★ ★ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Dan Oldbury
    187
    16
    Lol it sort of is broke - but not catestrophically broke.


    Best price I had on the mondeo DMF, clutch and slave at the time was £650 that was A1 clutches. I decided to go with someone more reputable at that time. Sort of the same dilemna I have now. People always say to me I'm overpaying yet I always ring round a few places for quotes. I think most of it is heresay and exaggeration really.


    Nighhawk - I have read your guides over and over. I looked for the hard to find bolt today - couldn't see it nor feel it. I think I'd be out of my depth trying that myself, nopt to mention finding the time to do these things and having the equipment.

    I also saw your guide for the slave and the algae growth. My clutch fluid was also green when I changed it, and appears to be slowly going green again now. I think its likely I have the same issue.
     
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  18. Nighthawk Guest

    United Kingdom Richard Milton Keynes
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    Its possible then mate yes. I couldn't get a good bleed out of my clutch after I changed the master which was why I dug deeper and pulled the slave apart.

    That hard to find bolt is an absolute patient tester. Its easier to change it on the petrol model like yours than on the diesel version due to the extra space you have in the engine compartment but yeah, that bolt is a pain. I use a flare wrench to break it loose as its the smallest wrench I have that I can get leverage on.

    Good luck however - hope you sort it out in the end
     
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  19. DieselPower Senior Member ★ ★ ☆ ☆ ☆

    @Dan - You've only got a squeaky pedal, no point spending any money when the clutch isn't even slipping.

    Get on the floor and look for leaks on the master. While you're there put your finger tips on different parts and depress the clutch pedal, trace the noise by the vibration.
    If your fluid is green then you need to flush it from the slave.
     
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  20. hedleyf Senior Member ★ ★ ☆ ☆ ☆

    You don't say what is wrong with the clutch? ,you say it does not silp,you don't mention any judder,it goes into gears ok?
    Is it only the noise issue?
    Fact if the clutch is misaligned the gearbox would not go back in,if it was a fraction out it would centralise the first time the pedal was pressed.
    Clutch slave and master cylinders problems involve hard to select gears esp first and reverse and a soft feel to the pedal as if it was only half working, the other problem is that once a gear is selected and clutch held down I'e at lights the car might start to move off on its own slowly and it would be hard to pull it out of gear, a few pumps and away you go again, this is normally due to loss of oil from the seals so a look at the level will confirm .
    Once these guys get your box out they might also hit you with a flywheel skim,as some will not warrant the job unless the mechining is done.
    If your only concern is the noise in the clip it seems to me to be under the pedal box ,pivot bushes,Spring return etc, maybe get in there with some spray grease,look to see if something is catching, I don't think anything is about to break.
     
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