I built this K24 frank engine last year, just came across the pictures of it and thought I'd post up a thread about it. Frank ?? Whose Frank ? A K24 Frankenstien engine is the term given to a K24 bottom end married with a K20 head (from a Civic Type-R). The idea is that you get the torque advantages of the bigger bottom end and and the higher flow advantage of the sportier heads from the Civic Type-Rs. Couple this with more aggressive cams and a 50 degree VTC (Accord K24A3's only have a 25 degree VTC), you can get some mad improvements over stock torque and BHP figures. Here's the donor engine I was given to build up :- So let's crack and see what we've got to work with. Taking the rocker cover off shows quite a grimey engine underneath, looks like previous owners have been using cheap oil and not changing it very often Looking at the spark plugs, seems to indicate some oil is being burnt With my suspicions raised about the viability of actually using this engine as basis for building a K24 frank engine, I investigated further by pulling out my trusty Leak Down detector (didn't bother doing a compression test as that tells you very little, the answer is two binary). Low and behold I find that the engine is actually in bad health and as it stands it would be a non starter. I immediately call up the owner and discuss the situation with him. He tells me that he got the engine cheap, it was already out of the car so he didn't see it running and didn't know that it was a non runner when taken out of the car for selling. He's panicked, annoyed and doesn't know what to do now. So I advice that I should continue and investigate further. I redo the compression test and listen for where the air is leaking too (compression test wouldn't give you this information). It seems all the leakage is down to bad head/valves and possibly head gasket too. So I decide to carry on the strip down of the engine. Take the timing chain cover off (once again you can see all the baked on oil), chain off, valve assembly off and finally down to a bare head Next up remove head from block We're down to block now. Checking the pistons they are all quite solid with barely any free play in them (when parked at TDC), which is good news, bores all good, which again is good news. So I pour some oil into two of the chambers at TDC, leave it a couple of days and see if any has drained away. None of it had, which is again good news. This is a very very crude test but coupled with everything that I had seen so far the block itself looked in fine health. I also checked the block surface with a straight edge and it was flat as a errr well a very flat thing. It was now time to check the bottom end, so the engine was turned over, to reveal more signs of mucky grimey backed on oil Here you can see the massive oil pump with built in balancer shafts. Oil pump removed, this engine really is a sight for sore eyes With the investigation complete, I reported back to the owner that despites it's horrid looks, the bottom was a good un and it was just the head and the head gasket that were scrap. This was all good as we were going to replace the head with a K20 head anyway. The owner (now very relieved) went about sourcing a replacement K20 head as well as new head gasket, timing chain and tensioner. He'd already supplied with a K20 oil pump from a EP3 Civic Type-R (these don't have balance shafts built in). So I went ahead with getting this installed. To fit this there is one oil gallery hole that needs to be blocked and the oil pump needs to be errr ... "engineered to fit" ... This is the hole that needs to be blocked, it actually has a small insert in it with a tiny little hole in the middle. I don't have any pictures of it unfortunately. However I got it out by screwing a wood screw into it and pulling it out. This left this hole like so (left hand side one):- Which I then block with a bolt (hole is already threaded), I applied thread lock to the bottom threads on the bolt and sealant around the top of the bolt. Gently tightened up the bolt and then cleaned up the sealant that have got squashed out. The thread lock will ensure bolt doesn't come loose and the sealant will ensure no oil can get passed With this done, I now moved onto removing the material from the K20 oil pump to make it fit (the clin film I wrapped around the rest of the pump to ensure now swarf or other debri goes into the pump With some fettling with the air grinder, I managed to get the oil pump to sit right. Oh and you'll notice that I did try to clean up the muck and baked on grime on the bottom of the engine as much as possible. Looking much better now huh The owner managed to get a K20 head and had it refurbed. I then went about re-installing it A Acura TSX intake cam was used as this is more aggressive than the standard UKDM Accord cam. Leak down test after assembly read like so Near perfect With the engine built, the owner came along, cleaned outside of engine, gave me a different rocker cover to install .. this is how the engine looked before installing in a Civic EG. The final figures that this engine made once tuned was 255BHP and 210 ft lbs of torque. In a super light EG chassis the car is an absolute animal !! The engine is still going strong even a year later despite the heavy use that the owner puts it through. You've probably seen the car at many car shows. It has SHOW as well as GO !! Garage tidied up and engine put on one side ready for installing.