Electrical & Lights Keyless entry not working

Discussion in '7th Generation (2003-2008) [Acura TSX]' started by motorbikelover, Tuesday 9th Aug, 2016.

  1. motorbikelover Senior Member ★ ★ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom david mee mansfield notts
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    hi im, in trouble now just put a new battery in my accord 7th Generation and it will not work and to make things worse i just watched a video on utube on how to reprogram it using the spare and that does not work either now has any one got any ideas ( accord 7th Generation 2.4 tourer exec auto)
     
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  2. motorbikelover Senior Member ★ ★ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom david mee mansfield notts
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    Thanks to all who have replyed. I have done the key re pairing or re coding myself in the car. It is very simple to do and cost nothing and takes but 5 minits to do both keys together. I would put this on the forum but i don't know if i will be in trouble by so.
     
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  3. Ichiban Founder Staff Team

    England CJ Leeds
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    Post it mate let see it.
     
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  4. SpeedyGee Administrator Staff Team

    England Speedy Birmingham
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    You must mean pairing your remotes. You can do that yourself following a procedure.

    You can't pair the actual keys to the immobiliser without going to the dealer though.
     
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  5. jimjams Expert Advisor ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

    United Kingdom nobody zoned
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    I'm honestly a bit confused by this.

    First of all, here is a picture of the key from my CM2

    IMAG0390.

    The transponder is in the top part in the picture, it's the small grey bit (which is actually white in daylight). AFAIK that transponder is an RFID chip.

    The next part below that is the transmitter (containing a battery) for the remote - a button to lock, a button to unlock, and a tailgate button (on Tourer).

    On the 7th Generation Accord, the transmitter only disables the alarm because, without that, you can get into the car and start the engine with just the top part (even with the alarm blaring) i.e. the car immobiliser needs to check the transponder (RFID) to start the engine, nothing else (it is not connected to the alarm system)

    The reason that I am puzzled is that if both transponders are ok (the RFID's unchanged) then if the car will not start, it implies that the immboliser in the car no longer recognises the RFID's, and in this situation you have to go to a dealer. But if only one RFID has gone wrong, you can still start the car with the other key (if you have it) and then pair the keys again ?


    and while I'm at it ....this other thread (also in 7th Generation Accord section) implies that the RFID is powered by the keyfob battery, but clearly it isn't ?
    Don't forget to change your Keyfob batteries! (Service & Maintenance - )
     
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  6. legend-ary Moderator Staff Team

    United Kingdom Legend The Big Smoke
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    Strange. I am pretty sure even if the remote is dead and you lock the car with just the key, you can unlock and start the car with just the key and a dead remote because my understanding was the RFID chip doesn't need any external power. I have tested it with my Jazz, Civic, Yaris etc as the chip is sealed inside the plastic part of the keys. Even later year cars with similar keys to yours, they keep working with broken remotes as long as you didn't lock the car with the remote (enabling the alarm).
     
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  7. jimjams Expert Advisor ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

    United Kingdom nobody zoned
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    the 7th Generation Accord is very annoying, if you lock the door with the key the alarm is set, nothing you can do to stop that. Then when you unlock the door with the key it does not unset the alarm (only the remote will unset the alarm in the 7th Generation Accord)

    There are two issues about this and the other thread Don't forget to change your Keyfob batteries! (Service & Maintenance - )

    1. the RFID chip is not powered in the keyfob - nor in any keyfob (not including high end luxury cars AFAIK). So the key should always start the engine, unless something has caused the RFID chip to alter (?) or more disastrously, if the car's immobiliser has changed
    2. the remote is obviously powered (you can't transmit RF energy over short distances without a power source), but the remote only sets the alarm system, which is not connected to the immobiliser system

    So, regarding an actual immobiliser problem, it depends what has failed and whether the spare key still works.
    But regarding a remote problem, if the chip in the remote/button module in the keyfob has lost its coding, you can still open the car with the key and drive it with the key, although in the 7th Generation Accord the alarm will be blaring
     
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  8. motorbikelover Senior Member ★ ★ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom david mee mansfield notts
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    I have i think just as requested posted the re pairing guide in guides and diy. my problem was the key remote battery was flat but still working at close range. i did not know that the key would have to be re paired. i had a spare key that has never been used and this worked perfectly but i changed the battery any way. as you do i looked on google to see if there was a guide and there was but the guide was missing a few parts i found out and did not work and wiped out my spare key as well (YES SILLY ME).so nothing to lose went back on google and found a guide on ebay that was foc this filled in the blanks and was fully detailed and worked and i now have 2 fully working key. but as i say in the posted guide this will only work on your own keys it will not work on new or second hand keys from another car.
     
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  9. jimjams Expert Advisor ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

    United Kingdom nobody zoned
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    Note that the remote is only for the alarm/siren, the RFID/immobilser is not affected (which is why it's still possible to re-pair the remote).
    Also, if you don't have the instructions to hand and the remote is un-paired, you can still drive the car, though the siren will be blaring for about 10 minutes (if this is annoying and you have the right tools available, get to the siren and unplug it - it's a 4-pin plug)
     
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  10. Ichiban Founder Staff Team

    England CJ Leeds
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    Just for clarity on this clouded topic and big and small chilly. Keyless entry and immobiliser are two different things. If you car does not open with remote key that is Keyless entry a standalone subsystem.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
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  11. motorbikelover Senior Member ★ ★ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom david mee mansfield notts
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    last word on this (HOORAY) At some time or another your battery in your remote will go flat replacing the battery is a simple job. On some cars you swop the battery and thats it away you go not so with the accord. The guide i posted is to re pair your key after this has been done i know nothing about keyless entry or the workings of them and certainly do not want to get involved in the workings of them. Hope the guide is of use to some of you and will save you a few bob .
     
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  12. jimjams Expert Advisor ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

    United Kingdom nobody zoned
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    keyless entry basically means remote central locking/unlocking, I have a 2004 Suzuki Alto with central locking but no remote, so it needs the key in the door to open the door, but if I fitted a receiver in the car and wired it to the central locking, it would then be remote central locking aka keyless entry

    although the same car (54 Alto) doesn't have remote in the fob, it does have an RFID chip, which the immobiliser uses

    so as said, keyless entry (remote central locking/unlocking) is one system and is just a "convenience" system, whereas immobiliser is a separate system and is to stop the car from being nicked (engine ECU won't work without the RFID chip that's in the keyfob)
     
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  13. jimjams Expert Advisor ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

    United Kingdom nobody zoned
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    I'm even more puzzled now ...

    In what conditions does a remote with a flat 3V coin/cell battery lose its pairing with the car ?
    I actually did not believe this other thread about having to renew the battery in the remote so as to avoid having to pair again Don't forget to change your Keyfob batteries! (Service & Maintenance - ) ....but I wasn't sure.

    The picture in #5 is of the spare key, which is the original spare key, and which I have only used a few times. My CM2 has been SORN for well over a year, and about the same time, the remote in the "main" key stopped working, such that if I wanted to start the car without the alarm going off, I had to get out the spare key and use the remote in that to open the doors without setting off the alarm (and then use the "main" key in the ignition).

    Well the other day I got a new CR1616 for the "main" key and replaced it about an hour ago. The remote in it works, there was no need to go through a pairing procedure.

    The battery in the spare key is a Panasonic CR1616 and it measures 3.02 Volts i.e. the battery, despite being at least 12 years old, is still perfectly ok because the remote has hardly ever been used.
    The original battery in the "main" key is also a Panasonic CR1616 and it measures 0.6 Volts, because the remote must have been used many hundreds of times.
    The new battery in the "main" key is a Duracell CR1616 and it measures 3.02 Volts.

    The serial numbers on the back of the remote modules in the two keys are 6 digits, but each is a different serial number. It is these serial numbers that must be stored in the car i.e. when you pair a key with a car, you don't store a number into the key, you store a fixed number that is in the key, into the car.

    So why would anyone ever need to pair their original remote when the battery in its remote module has died ? ?
     
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