Suspension, Steering and Brakes Left rear brake calipper

Discussion in '7th Generation (2003-2008) [Acura TSX]' started by hsyasin, Saturday 3rd May, 2014.

  1. hsyasin Valued Contributor ★ ★ ★ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Hammad Bury St. Edmunds
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    Hi chaps, have been trying to figure out why for some reason my left rear side brake caliper doesnt return fully to its position making my left side handbrake cable loose, just opened and did a brake pad change but couldn't move that b***:Rant:return assembly (the lever attached to the spring).
    Any idea what could be going wrong or how to fix this, i've half of my day trying to figure out how to fix this but can seem to
    Plz help:Sobbing:
    This is how the driver side rear is with handbrake released
    driverside[1].JPG
    And this is passengerside with handbrake released
    passengerside[1].JPG
     
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  2. hsyasin Valued Contributor ★ ★ ★ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Hammad Bury St. Edmunds
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    As u can see the driverside cable is fully stretched coz the rubber boot on the end of cable is fully stretched, whereas passengerside cable isnt, and the return assembly is coming back either:What:
     
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  3. AndyB1976 Valued Contributor ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆

    United Kingdom Andy Aberfoyle
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    I had the same prob on my 6th Generation

    seized_caliper_zpsc56fb281.

    I basically replaced the caliper however whilst I had the old one off I tried to free it up and see what went wrong. What freed it up (although it was never tested back on the car) was spraying a penetrating fluid or WD40 down around the shaft that big nut in the centre is fixed too. putting a socket on that nut and a breaker bar and working it back n forth. Ideally caliper in a vice, otherwise stand on it and work the breaker bar that way. I feared the nut would twist off but it didn't with the force I used.

    I think basically grime got in down beside that shaft/pivot bolt and choked it up, a few penetrating soakings and forced movement enabled to work, at least on 'the bench' if not on the car.
     
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  4. Nels Moderator Staff Team

    @hsyasin
    Between the caliper and the plate the big nut holds on, is a rubber boot around the shaft.
    If you carefully push the edge over, you can insert the spray tube from WD40 can, to get some release agent on the shaft.
    Be careful not to damage the rubber. It can also be tricky to return the rubber to its original position.

    Hope that helps

    driverside[1].JPG
     
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  5. hsyasin Valued Contributor ★ ★ ★ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Hammad Bury St. Edmunds
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    cheers guys
    i did spray some wd40 just behind this lever by forcing spray tube inside that rubber boot.
     
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  6. Nels Moderator Staff Team

    The only other thing I can suggest, if you haven't done so already, is to carefully tap that plate (as shown in Andy's picture) back and forth to work the release agent in and hopefully free the handbrake ?

    I'm still on the lookout for info about the mechanism inside, since both of mine are not as mobile as I would like.
     
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  7. AndyB1976 Valued Contributor ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆

    United Kingdom Andy Aberfoyle
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    If you are leaving it on the car than try a socket and breaker bar or spanner (preferably not a ratchet) so you can work that nut back and forth. It may have been that nut was rusted onto that plate on mine but that's what got mine moving.
     
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  8. Nels Moderator Staff Team

    Forgive me if I've got this wrong.
    I thought the nut locked the plate to the shaft and that the rubber boot was to keep dirt out of the shaft.

    When I was trying to free mine, I removed the nut and spring completely and unhooked the cable.
    I then 'oiled' the shaft and was able to check that the plate moved back and forth.
    Since it did move I didn't take the plate off, plus it was on very tightly.

    Please correct me if I'm wrong.

    We really need a diagram, showing all the parts, of this Lucas caliper
     
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  9. AndyB1976 Valued Contributor ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆

    United Kingdom Andy Aberfoyle
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    My intention was to remove that nut but when I levered on it the whole mechanism moved. I continued to spray it and move it and eventually the spring was able to return the lever arm as normal.

    I guess the best tool to work the mechanism is channel locks/pipe pliers as they have the jaw width to fit round the tab that the cable hooks over and the bit the cable goes through.
     
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  10. Nels Moderator Staff Team

    I think, the moral of this tale, is to keep all the muck off the caliper to ensure free movement, preferably from when we first get the car.
    I've broken a few bolts and nuts in the past, so now hesitant of too much leverage.
     
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  11. SpeedyGee Administrator Staff Team

    England Speedy Birmingham
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    As said above you can free the mechanism by grabbing it with some adjustable pliers and yanking it back and forth.
     
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  12. hsyasin Valued Contributor ★ ★ ★ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Hammad Bury St. Edmunds
    353
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    :OTT::Happy:
    Did it.... turns out that wheels been holding the car back for ages, now i can feel the car being free and :vtec:
    cheers guys:Thumbup::GoodJob:
     
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    SpeedyGee likes this.
  13. AndyB1976 Valued Contributor ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆

    United Kingdom Andy Aberfoyle
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    Nice one :Thumbup:
     
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  14. SpeedyGee Administrator Staff Team

    England Speedy Birmingham
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    Result !

    Did you free it whilst still on the car or take it off ?
     
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  15. hsyasin Valued Contributor ★ ★ ★ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Hammad Bury St. Edmunds
    353
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    no, while it was on the car, coz it needed some really good yanking back and fourth and a few sprays of wd40 behind the lever (lifting rubber seal with a screwdriver and poking spray tube in)..
    have to say, it was a really nice workout without going to the gym
     
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  16. Nels Moderator Staff Team

    Really pleased for you. :GoodJob:
    Time to enjoy your Accord :Smile:
     
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