Engine & Gearbox Liquid Intelligence 115 Synthetic, Waterless Engine Coolant

Discussion in '1st Generation (1976-1981)' started by Ichiban, Sunday 21st Oct, 2012.

  1. Ichiban Founder Staff Team

    England CJ Leeds
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    Ever since I have owned the first gen the one thing I have never been able to treat is the ever increasing engine temperature in stop and go traffic. My first gen was laid up for more than 20 years before it was put back on the road and all these years the old coolant was degraded and has left the internals rather neglected.

    When the car was put back on the road the thermostat,radiator cap,all rubber hoses were replaced with new parts and the radiator were removed and thoroughly cleaned. On yearly preventative maintenance tasks the cooling system is flushed with fresh Honda type 2 cool.

    Every year at the time of flushes the coolant reservoir bottle has a layer of rusty sludge at the bottom and the coolant has crusty particles of rust.On a litmus paper test the coolant PH value is slightly towards the acidic side which is not good hence the yearly flushes.My car normally come out only when there is glorious sunshine and if I am caught in traffic condition the engine temperature soon start to rise above the halfway mark towards the red zone. The outside temperature may between 25-28 degrees the water temperature is nearly to 90 degree C,to combat this I have to turn the heater on to get the heat dissipated quickly within 10 minutes the coolant temperature is well within normal range.

    The only thing for me the car get unbearable with the extensive heat in the cockpit I have to roll down all the windows and take breaks to cool down.:Angry: Sometimes I can't do that on motorways I just have to suffer in silence and pull off at the next junction for me to take a breather. This year I was fed up of this and wanted to find a solution and started to search and seek out classic car enthusiasts who experienced this issue.

    Just to clarify first gen Accord engine block is made of cast iron hence the rust ,the modern Honda engine have all aluminum engines which cannot rust.:Wink:

    I found a company base in Australia who have cured the overheating by making a completely synthetic waterless nano-fluid called liquid intelligence 115 super waterless coolant.

    The advantages are pretty impressive and a lot of racing team including motocross and enduro team use this coolant to combat overheating seen on their small radiators. After speaking to a lot of guys in Australia they have conceived me this product is the only one they recommend for my issue.I have also purchased liquid intelligence 239 engine cooling system cleaning kit which claims to remove ferrous and mineral scale and recondition the rusty surfaces.I have ordered the two products from Mainlube International who are the european distributors.I will post a full detailed DIY and progress update next year.

    I will do the flush and treatment over the winter period and take pictures for the forum. For owners who are thinking for looking for a complete synthetic coolant look at this product :Thumbup:

    Attached are a few PDF from the manufacturer.

    View attachment Liquid Intelligence 239 Engine Cooling System Cleaning Kit.pdf

    View attachment Liquid Intelligence 115 Test Report.pdf
     
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  2. Dave Top Contributor ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆

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    Oooh is this the stuff they just used on the TR6 on Wheeler Dealers last week? Think they said it was around £90 for it, that was waterless coolant hadn't heard of it till I watched that lol
     
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  3. Ichiban Founder Staff Team

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  4. hedleyf Premium Member Club Supporter

    Hi,
    Interesting, I've stripped loads of heads,coolant pumps etc on iron heads and even after 15/20 years found the block to be like new,even vauxhalls and fiats,in fact been completely amazed at thier condition, a good coolant or antifreeze should not be causing rust problems, do you think its whats left in the system over the years?,if the coolant is up to 90 it would seem ok as most cars run over boiling point, a lot of later cars have stabilizers on the gauges so not to alarm the driver until necessary where the old gauges moved up and down quite a lot, will it overheat and is the electric fan cutting in?
    I do remember mine running hot at times in traffic and not wanting to damage the engine or head I fitted a manual overide switch to the rad fan relay and when in traffic and it was getting a bit warm I could manually from the dash switch on and off the cooling fan.
     
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  5. Ichiban Founder Staff Team

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    Hi mate, I have gone down the entire schematics of engine overheating,as long as the car is moving the temperature is fine the minute you stop and idle it creeps up and if it a hot day it get worse. The fact I have to run the engine on unleaded makes the engine run hot but not to such extremes ..The radiator fan runs when the car get hot the carbs are tuned and set correctly the valve lash are perfect and the car behaves perfectly.

    I reckon during the layup time the coolant used was well past it sell by date or the system was half full leading to top half corrosion and sedimentation.The fact I have crusty grains of calcium or rust indicates the coolant was never changed before I got the car.
    if they used basic tap water then it will make matters worse, The thought of running the fan on a overide switch has appealed to me and even removing the thermostat just in case it got stuck.

    Let see how this cleaner works prior to the waterless coolant the advantages outweigh the need for water\glycol based coolants in the cooling system.
     
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  6. hedleyf Premium Member Club Supporter

    I think you could be right about the sediment in the block, not so sure removing the thermostat is a good idea maybe test it,when you think about it when the cars is that hot it should be open anyway ,would not be so good on warm up as well, but if only using it in the summer it may well pay off, looked at those links for the product looks good and my hobbies being vintage restoration this is of great interest.
     
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  7. Ichiban Founder Staff Team

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    I will keep an eye on it , I just want to see how much rust this treatment does kick out. I have just seen the TR6 episode of Wheeler dealers and saw the Evans waterless coolant.

    I do like their Automotive Prep Fluid to remove all traces of water before you go for the waterless coolant.

    Like you bud everyday is new learning experience.:Wink:
     
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  8. Ichiban Founder Staff Team

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    Just a quick update,after today meet came back home got my overhauls on and got to start the long process of cleaning cooling system then treat the system with a neutraliser.

    I have drained the Honda type two coolant and begun the first stage of treatment.

    image.
     
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  9. Ichiban Founder Staff Team

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    First stage mix 5 scoops (the scoop is provided with the kit) of part A with 5 litres fresh water , run the engine for three hours flat. I have to maintain water temperature at 70 degree c for the treatment to take effect, idling the engine at 30 minutes intervals. One hour down two to go .. Rust sentiments at the bottom of the coolant expansion bottle.

    after this I will do the part B process
    image.
     
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  10. Ichiban Founder Staff Team

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    Thirty more minutes to go the water is absolutely filthy .. The corrosive nature of part A has certainly picked up all the curd up , you can smell the acidic fumes .Will upload some YouTube clips soon.
     
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  11. MickyB Top Contributor ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆

    Can we use it to make alcohol we'd make a fortune HIC HIC HIC
     
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  12. Ichiban Founder Staff Team

    England CJ Leeds
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    Its all yours "Micksters Cider"
     
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  13. Ichiban Founder Staff Team

    England CJ Leeds
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    The Part A fluid made up 5 liter, I added the bleed funnel just to show how the water looked when the process started and when I finished. Pretty dramatic,tomorrow I will run the Part B process.




     
    Last edited by a moderator: Saturday 22nd Feb, 2014