Engine & Gearbox My CR-V 2.2 i-DTEC Does Not Start

Discussion in '3rd Generation (2006-2012)' started by automobilklub, Monday 13th Oct, 2014.

  1. automobilklub Premium Member Club Supporter

    Dan Northampton
    35
    9
    Hi to everyone.
    I bought a used CR-V diesel, 2.2 I-DTEC (2010)
    Bought it as a non-runner hoping to get it fixed but I tried almost everything and no luck.
    The car has over 180.000 miles on the clock and full dealer service history.
    I've hooked up a HDS but there is nothing coming up.
    Engine cranks but does not start.
    Fuel gets to the engine (checked the return pipe), immobilizer is fine, battery is new.
    Tried to check the fuel rail pressure using HDS but it requires a running engine, same for injectors testing.
    Cannot see the famous fuel rail pressure valve that fails in I-CDTI engines.
    Ran out of ideas and would appreciate suggestions...
    Thanks
     
    Loading...
  2. SpeedyGee Administrator Staff Team

    England Speedy Birmingham
    14,999
    5,591
    4
    Diesels not my thing but have you tried unplugging the MAF sensor and then trying to start it ?
     
    Loading...
  3. Ichiban Founder Staff Team

    England CJ Leeds
    30,105
    6,370
    516
    have you tried pre-ignition spray down the air filter to help it fire? attach the data log from HDS on here.
     
    Loading...
  4. ArcticFire-Account Closed Banned Getting Started

    Scotland Graham Scotland
    3,521
    1,051
    7
    My first thoughts would be lack of compression or injectors. Is it possible the timing chain has shifted or been replaced incorrectly and the timing is out or even had snapped and bent some valves?

    Also, when turning the starter motor are the revs going up very slightly on the dial? If so then this would eliminate the crankshaft sensor.

    Although I suspect both the above would throw a MIL light.

    Have you checked for head gasket problems?

    And this may sound really stupid but is it possible that someone may have tried to remap it and messed up the ECU? Not sure what effects this could have or if it would ping up a MIL light?
    - - - Updated - - -
    Just had another thought, have you checked all the fuses both in the drivers foot well and the engine bay?
     
    Loading...
  5. DeviateDefiant Co-Founder Staff Team

    United Kingdom Leo Northants
    9,206
    2,976
    3
    I hate to say it, but I think it might be time to start stripping down the engine. You've got power and fuel, immobiliser checked out, the engine will crank - it's the head that's the next port of call in my eyes, followed by the block.
     
    Loading...
  6. Ichiban Founder Staff Team

    England CJ Leeds
    30,105
    6,370
    516
    naah diesel need encouragement to fire up they are lazy dirty engines.

    buy a can of this stuff it works. once it fires then you will know what is what

    SYBcanhires.
     
    Loading...
    bijomaru likes this.
  7. ArcticFire-Account Closed Banned Getting Started

    Scotland Graham Scotland
    3,521
    1,051
    7
    Lol
     
    Loading...
  8. Bones126 Top Contributor ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆

    England Dave Birmingham
    925
    447
    2
    I had this with a bike once, pop and banged away put wouldn't fire. 1 damaged ECU was the answer, replaced it and fired first time.
     
    Loading...
  9. automobilklub Premium Member Club Supporter

    Dan Northampton
    35
    9
    Hi. thanks for all your suggestions. i bought a can of easy start but it says that this should be used while cranking the engine and i have no one to help now. will try later. I cannot upload a HDS dump file due to unsupported extension of the file .dat...
    Here is a file for HDS with changed extension, just change .txt back to .dat
    Also, for those without HDS to read the dump file, photos:


    seems like the fuel rail pressure is too low to fire up...also if you check pressure valve it says open/open (last pic), same when i try to start it up. max pressure i can get whilst cranking is 3-5 Mpa instead of 25-35 required. fuel pressure valve failed maybe ...

    Can anybody paste his CR-V I-DTEC dump file with ignition on only?
     

    Attached Files:

    Loading...
  10. Ichiban Founder Staff Team

    England CJ Leeds
    30,105
    6,370
    516
    send me a pm and then we can exchange email address so i can look at the dat file, that fuel filter doesn't seem to pass a lot of diesel.. how much fuel have you got in your tank get at least 10 liters or above and try bleeding then try.
     
    Loading...
  11. Ichiban Founder Staff Team

    England CJ Leeds
    30,105
    6,370
    516
    Additionally can you look at the fuel sender catch to see no one has been messing with the pipes.

    Fuel Line/Quick-Connect Fitting Precautions

    The fuel line/quick-connect fittings (A, B, and C) connect the fuel feed line (D) to the fuel tank unit (E), the fuel return line (F) to the fuel tank unit, between the fuel feed pipes (G), the fuel tank vapor breather hose (H) to the joint (I).

    Fuel Line Quick-Connect.PNG
    When removing or installing the fuel feed hose, the fuel tank unit, or the fuel tank, it is necessary to disconnect or connect the quick-connect fittings.
    Pay attention to the following:
    • The fuel feed hoses, the fuel lines, the fuel return hoses, and the quick-connect fittings are not heat-resistant; be careful not to damage them during welding or other heat-generating procedures.
    • The fuel feed hoses, the fuel lines, the fuel return hoses, and the quick-connect fittings are not acid-proof; do not touch them with a shop towel that was used for wiping battery electrolyte. Replace them if they came into contact with electrolyte or something similar.
    • When connecting or disconnecting the fuel feed hoses, the fuel lines, the fuel return hoses, and the quick-connect fittings, be careful not to bend or twist them excessively. Replace them if they are damaged.
    A disconnected quick-connect fitting can be reconnected, but the retainer on the mating line cannot be reused once it has been removed from the line. Replace the retainer when:
    • replacing the fuel feed line.
    • replacing the fuel return line.
    • replacing the fuel gauge sending unit.
    • replacing the fuel tank.
    • it has been removed from the line.
    • it is damaged.
    Location Manufacturer Retainer color Piping diameter
    A Sanoh White 9.5 mm
    (0.37 in)
    B Sanoh White 9.5 mm
    (0.37 in)
    C Tokai Green 16 mm
    (0.63 in)

    Also have a proper look at all the pipes at your mileage it may have seen a butcher or two with no clue.

    Fuel line inspection.PNG Fuel line inspection 2.PNG
     
    Loading...
  12. automobilklub Premium Member Club Supporter

    Dan Northampton
    35
    9
    I'd love to but i cannot see the button for pm's...
     
    Loading...
  13. SpeedyGee Administrator Staff Team

    England Speedy Birmingham
    14,999
    5,591
    4
    Click on CJ's Avatar, then choose "Start a Conversation"
     
    Loading...
  14. automobilklub Premium Member Club Supporter

    Dan Northampton
    35
    9
    Sorry, can't see it... I can see a message box when I enter SpeedyGee'a avatar, but not in the Ichiban's...
     
    Loading...
  15. SpeedyGee Administrator Staff Team

    England Speedy Birmingham
    14,999
    5,591
    4