General Need to confirm which model Tourer i have?

Discussion in '7th Generation (2003-2008) [Acura TSX]' started by Kenbarcon, Saturday 14th May, 2016.

  1. Kenbarcon New Member Getting Started

    United Kingdom Kenny Scarborough
    4
    Hi, first time posting on here so be gentle with me, i bought my Tourer last year, its a 05 plate and 2.2 I-CTDI according to the log book, last month i went to motor factors and bought a new rear wheel bearing for it, they gave me the wrong one so returned it and was told that according to the details it should have been correct, for some reason mine was not a standard round/sleeve type of bearing but the full unit with the wheel studs already on it.
    Of course the part was more money than the first one they gave me, no surprise there.
    I am now looking to get a timing chain kit for it but need to know if i am ordering the correct one or not, this is the info on my VIN plate
    e6*2001/116*0097
    JHMCN2***********
    CN2 N22A1-*******
    SEG5 EB1
    -B507P
    -A -C

    so which would be the correct kit as there are loads of different ones it seems. Also where would you recommend i get the kit from, please don't say my main Honda dealer as i am but a poor boy who has just started work after being off sick for the last 2 years.

    many thanks
    Kenny
     

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  2. Zebster Expert Advisor ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

    United Kingdom .
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    You have a pre-facelift CN2 model. The rear suspension and brakes is completely different between the saloon and tourer models.

    The timing chain kit for the 2.2 I-CTDI is the same whatever the model. Facelift (2006-) diesel Accords had improved tensioners for both the cam and oil pump chains, but these later, improved tensioners are a slot-in retrofit (assuming you want to change them... I actually reused my original camchain tensioner as it seemed OK, was really expensive to replace and can readily be replaced at any time via an inspection plate in the chain cover). I recommend Febi chains as a cheap replacement (which I used) and then only replace the bits that look really worn.
     
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  3. Kenbarcon New Member Getting Started

    United Kingdom Kenny Scarborough
    4
    Thanks for the info Zebster, much appreciated.
     
  4. Nels Moderator Staff Team

    @Kenbarcon
    It is not safe to post your full VIN so I have edited the post and picture.
     
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  5. Kenbarcon New Member Getting Started

    United Kingdom Kenny Scarborough
    4
    Thanks for that Nels,
     
  6. Nels Moderator Staff Team

    My pleasure. :Hey:
     
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  7. Kenbarcon New Member Getting Started

    United Kingdom Kenny Scarborough
    4
    Hi, i am going to change the timing chain this coming week, are there any special tools i will need? i do have a comprehensive tool kit as been a biker for 30 years but don't want to get caught out once i have started.
    Cheers Kenny
     
  8. Zebster Expert Advisor ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

    United Kingdom .
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    You may need something to help you undo the crankshaft pulley bolt, either the special locking tool (see example below) to lock the pulley while you use whatever you feel best to undo the bolt (impact driver or breaker bar), but after I burnt out my electric impact driver and snapped several 1/2" extensions applying around 530 ft.lb of force I decided to use the 'redneck' technique of simply fitting the breaker bar between the 19mm AF socket (ideally 6-point) and the garage floor, then spinning the starter motor to apply enough force to get the wretched thing undone! I did this with the injectors removed (which has to be done anyway) so the full force of the starter motor was available... if you do this then you don't need to lock the pulley with a special tool, which is a big benefit (it's almost impossible to lock the engine without the tool, by the way, as the DMF allows a fair bit of sprung movement if you plan to simply put the car in gear and apply the brakes to lock the engine).

    Because the drivers side and rear/lower engine mounts have to be removed to get off the chain cover and sump, you'll need an engine hoist.

    Not a special tool, but the Honda eServiceManual is something I'd recommend. There's a lot to do and a lot of reassembly requiring bolts to be torqued, plus the manual has a whole load of detail about the task.

    The Honda eSM calls up a few 'special tools', but these are merely workshop drifts for locking purposes. I found that an M3 screw can be used to lock the tensioners during removal/reassembly and an 8mm drill shank can be used to lock the oil pump/balance assembly to allow the associated sprocket to be undone/torqued back up.

    I used Loctite 5920 to re-gasket the chain cover and sump.

    If you haven't already done so, the shorter aux belt mod is worth doing as part of the overall job. I did mine at the same time.

    Locking tool, if you decide to go down this route...
     
    Last edited: Saturday 28th May, 2016
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