7th Generation (2003-2008) vehicle added by blackbeard, Thursday 16th Apr, 2015
blackbeard added a new Honda to the garage:
Check the vehicle's full information here.
What needs doing to her?
Sounds poorly. As above, let us know what she needs fixing, we will endeavour to guide you where possible.
Hi guys first port of call hopefully by the weekend is a complete new fluids workout.I had reported a clutch malfunction in another post yesterday, but this morning it engaged as normal but I only travelled within the confines of the car park and not wanting to be stuck down any of our local roads,rural Kent.
Got the fault on dash cleared after installing new Honda fuel filter which was some after market affair, the tolerances in this design must be very tight !!. Car now starts without any prompting via the easy start and seems a little more at ease, after I drained 2 litres of over oiling out.The jublilee clip was missing off the air filter rear connector don't know if this is vital for air intake pressure or not, but have obtained one to fit tommorow .
Tomorrows schedule also includes clutch fluid total change and bleed, new Honda air filter.
Weekend will see Honda oil filter and new 0w 30 oil transfusion, along with a complete gearbox oil change. There is a definite faint but not too drastic rattle from the serpentine belt area, suspect chain not in good health, but could also be a pulley idler or the alternator. This engine is a new sound to my ears so not sure what a smooth sound one should be like. Every thing at this juncture is dependent on the clutch being functional first to give confidence in drive. plan to degunge EGR and swirl flap once the rest is functioning to my satisfaction.Have introduced a bottle of cataclean to the tank to aid cleanse through, as car been static 6 months with half a tank of diesel.
Interesting comment about the 200,00 mile marker, in the Rover 75 owners club of which I am also a member they have " the Moon Club " where cars over 275, 000 are added, the BMW unit they had installed under German ownership of Rover is capable of very high mileages, if maintained correctly of course.Looking forward to achieving the same or better with this project
Thanks for your replies, shall add progress or failures as when /if /work progresses.
Today I have changed gearbox oil, dismantled and cleaned the swirl flap, and as far as could reach into the manifold with carb cleaner, the EGR was tested and found to be operational, did not remove soot as pointless.
Engine oil and filter replaced. Map sensor de gunked with contact cleaner. Replaced missing jubilee clip to air filter rubber hose.
Turns over well now and fires up within a second or so. Tomorrow change clutch fluid.
I have just driven the car on a short six mile test run , and the clutch seems to be functioning well, despite the problems I have had with it. The timing chain is noticeable at tick over ,more so under acceleration.The jockey pulley next to the alternator pulley is squealing slightly, a short blast of wd has temporarily quietened it down.
On the point of the timing chain is there a statistic for the failure rate. ? It will have to be replaced eventually, but not by me.
So that said, I need to source a timing chain kit, can anyone please give me the Honda part number for the newer acid resistance improved chain kit, also are there any aftermarket ~ other manufacturers chain kits worth considering ?.
Presented for MOT failed on poorly illuminated drivers headlamp (bulb ) and nearside upper wishbone bush. Advisories rear discs corroded, hand brake at 16%
All now rectified, have removed pulley and installed shorter serpentine belt .
Now only requires DMF and clutch
Managed to negociate a great deal to fit my supplied parts, ( Luk DMF and 3 piece clutch kit ) at Invicta Honda and Mazda in Maidstone, which will be fitted on Tuesday, at a better price than 6 well respected local independent garages could.
Looking forward to getting the old girl back without the engine throbbing like a badly bruised thumb.
Has it had the shorter (7PK1784) aux belt mod? It takes a bit of loading off the alternator pulley, liberates a redundant idler (might be the thing that's squealing?) and - on mine, at least - made things a little quieter.
Worth running the engine for a short while with the aux belt off to see if the 'timing chain' noise disappears... there are a number of driven items that can make odd noises!
Yes I have removed the idler and fitted the shorter belt, thanks for the tip re :- running without the belt on. Unfortunately this only highlighted what I feared more than the clutch, that the chains indeed do need replacing, I thought initially noisy water pump or alternator and the now removed idler pulley did squeal somewhat, but the chains are definitely clattering . More noise at the top of the casing circa cam sprockets, but I suspect the oil chain also, as its noisy in the wheel arch as well.
Just need to discover the best technique for injector removal without the need to destroying them as replacement is not an option for me. Two had been replaced prior to my purchase so may not be too difficult. as regards the others I'll have to wait and see when I attempt the job.
I got all 4 of my injectors out very easily (without any damage) by warming the engine up, switching off, loosening the T30 injector clamp bolts and nipping them back up, spraying loads of WD40 around each injector, restarting the engine and then carefully undoing each clamp bolt a little until bubbling appeared in the WD40 around each injector, then switching the engine off. I then removed all injector pipework and connections and finally used molegrips to wiggle each injector out... it really was as easy as it sounds! If the injector seals ('gaskets') haven't been leaking then I don't see why this should ever be a problem. Refitting actually took longer.
Thanks Zebster, sounds preferable to standing in the engine bay with a slide hammer
Slight up date.
New clutch and flywheel now installed working very well. Have the typical drive shaft judder now on take up but I knew they were to be replaced.
The bad starting from cold persistent problem feels like fuel starvation. I know the chains need replacing and the timing may be out , but once started and run for as little as 10 mins it will struggle but start up without chemical assistance, and rev quite freely.It does however omit a brownish. blackish smoke on heavy right foot usage slight turbo lag as well.
I have noticed the priming bulb does not stay rigid having bled and re-bled multiple times. I suspect the in tank pump may be contaminated sludged up and not delivering enough fuel, and / or a the two way valve breather pipe blocked.
I understand there is some kind of gauze filter in the tank also which may not be helping.
There are no lights on the dash and no codes are being logged.
These engines are very sensitive to fuel delivery issues. Any restriction in the feed (such as a below-par filter) usually brings up a P1065 and/or a P0087 DTC, so I don't think it's a restriction.
I have just conducted the over pressure relief valve leak test on the fuel pressure rail, and it's merrily leaching diesel.
Looks favourite to be my problem.
Good news... nothing should come out of that valve's outlet on the fuel rail. If you want a brand new one, then Bosch service agents sell them. Can be hard to undo.
I think I'll try the breakers yard route , quality not assured of course but a complete rail would come with the sensor still attached at the other end as well, that gives another spare.
Theres only sufficient space to get a spanner down on it, it looks like the power steering pump needs to come off, to get a decent socket on.
Any idea of the length of the fitting itself, do you think it would unscrew with ps pump in situ ?
I obtained an entire secondhand rail and swapped it, so can't give much advice on merely changing just the valve. Looking at them on eBay the valve insert does look quite long, so may be quite tight, clearance-wise? But actually very easy to swap the entire rail like I did (but be careful with keeping the high-pressure pipework spotlessly clean).
Sounds like the best way to attack it , cheers.
Just scored a fuel rail with sensor posted, for £40.50 via Ebay ...
If it does not work, it'll make a nice 4 way bong
That's slightly less than I paid!
Good luck and please keep us posted...
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