Civic/7th Gen Project - Fix Poorly Civic Type-R (EP3)

Discussion in 'Project & Modification Logs' started by SpeedyGee, Sunday 18th Nov, 2012.

  1. SpeedyGee Administrator Staff Team

    England Speedy Birmingham
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    I've had another poorly Civic bought to me. This one has like a heavy tappetty sound to it, which initially I diagnosed as either valve clearance issue or some other valve train issue.

    Owner thought it was bottom end, but when I was listening to the engine using a stethoscope it sounded like it was coming from top of number 1 chamber.

    So my advice was that the only way to check the issue out was to first have a go at setting valve clearances and if that doesn't work start stripping down the engine.

    So we got the car in started working on it and we can see that the car as been worked on already. We get down to checking the valve clearances and we find that they is practically no clearance been set at all, ie its zero. Your suppose to do valve clearances on a K series engine only when its stone cold, so I don't know if someone did them when engine was hot or they just set them to zero due to lack of knowledge.

    Clearances for K20A2 are :
    Intake - 0.21 to 0.25mm
    Exhaust - 0.25 to 0.29mm

    With the valve clearances set correctly, we start the engine and can hear a marked improvement of like 25% less tappety noise then there was before. As the issue was still present we were left with no choice but to start to stripping the engine. Still suspecting a top end issue we started stripping engine in situ (as opposed to pulling engine out of car).

    Time for some pics :-

    2012-11-17 11.47.39.


    2012-11-17 11.47.46.

    We made way more progress than this but I've got to shoot now, I'll update the thread in the evening.
     
    Last edited: Monday 19th Nov, 2012
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  2. Ichiban Founder Staff Team

    England CJ Leeds
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    Pictures need reinserting mate .
     
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  3. SpeedyGee Administrator Staff Team

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    I've reduced a good 10 hours worth of work into just a few pictures :-

    I must have spent a good few hours just getting the timing chain cover off, space is very very cramped. In the time that I spent taking the timing chain cover off, my nephew managed to remove the both the inlet manifold and the exhaust manifold.

    2012-11-17 17.22.53.
    In the pic below you can see lots of tie clips, I like to lock the cam followers together as there are small springs, with caps in the middle of then, it's easy for this to fall out. So to avoid losing or damaging these I like to tie clip up the cam followers.
    2012-11-17 17.57.59.
    In this picture you can see inlet manifold has been remove, the exhaust manifold has also been removed .. good job neph !
    2012-11-17 17.58.06. And here we have it, we're finally down to the block.

    2012-11-17 18.46.18.
    2012-11-17 18.46.26.

    -
     
    Last edited: Monday 19th Nov, 2012
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  4. Ichiban Founder Staff Team

    England CJ Leeds
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    So what's the outcome so far bud ? for the members who don't know the full story of this project.

    I love your engine threads :Hooray:
     
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  5. SpeedyGee Administrator Staff Team

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    I was out all day yesterday, I'll update the thread sometime today.
     
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  6. Ichiban Founder Staff Team

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    Looking forward to it, but may be not so good news for the owner I suppose.:telloff:
     
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  7. SpeedyGee Administrator Staff Team

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    Bits of engine everywhere :Tea: You need to be well organised to ensure you don't lose anything or get nuts and bolts mixed up.

    2012-11-17 19.01.01.


    Anyway with the head now removed we inspected it but found no issues what so ever. :Angry:

    This meant that even more dismantling was required :Aghast:, so next thing to do was remove the sump to get to the con rods.

    Removing the sump in situ is not easy on an EP3 as the sump sits just on top sub frame. To try and get it out the engine needs lifting up a fair bit.

    2012-11-17 18.56.21. 2012-11-17 18.56.32.


    You can then carefully remove the sump.
     
    Last edited: Monday 19th Nov, 2012
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  8. Ichiban Founder Staff Team

    England CJ Leeds
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    The mystery continues looking forward to see the crank shells and conrod in the affected piston..

    mate when you remove the crank caps see if they are matched to the block. the colour code and marking will elude to that. Back in the 1990's when i used to work for Suzuki we had Suzuki Cappuccino come in with a irregular idling and funny bottom end noises and this guys was under warranty.

    On full strip we found everything fine and the conrods shells and main bear shell chewed at the corners :Unknown: we sat there looking at this 12000 mile engine why on earth has this done this. Tested the oil pump oil galleries and resigned it was a full engine rebuild at Suzuki expense.

    Until a Japanese engineer was flown out and wanted to look at this engine is 5 minutes he said by looking at the shell ends caps and crankshaft is not matched to engine block, warranty was accepted but learnt a valuable lesson never use bottom ends gear off another block it not balanced or matched and at high revs it causes a lot of damage.


    Few months later the customer meet the service manager for drinks at a pub and told him he has hit the sump on a speed breaker and got a wrecked car engine bits to rebuild it.
     
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  9. SpeedyGee Administrator Staff Team

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    With the sump dropped we're really into the heart of the engine.

    At this point we turned the engine by hand and checked each cylinder bore. Cylinders 2,3 and 4 checkout just fine, however same could not be said for cylinder one. Remember this is where the tappety noise was coming from.

    Cylinders 2 and 3 :
    20121117_184321.
    Cylinder 4:
    20121117_184212.

    As you can see all three bores are nice and smooth and shiney.
     
    Last edited: Monday 19th Nov, 2012