Well as I'm and to paraphrase JFK I thought "Ask not what can your car club do for you? ask rather, what can you do for your car club?" So with that in mind the missus dad has been teaching me to fix up and spray motorcycle panels and helmets as that's both of our interest in fixing up bikes. So I've copied a thread i had on a bike forum as the same principles apply for cars. This is the seat cowl I did for my cbr 600 f a couple of months ago. Before. First step is to sand off any previously existing lacquers. For this use 400 grain wet and dry paper. Sand firmly but not as if you're He-man, periodically wiping the area dry and clean with a clean rag and having a good gander at it in the lights reflection. This will allow you to see a sort of orange peel effect on the surface. That is the lacquer you are removing. Once this is all gone use a 2000 grain wet and dry to smooth the surface out again getting rid of any deeper scratches, be a little less firm than before. This gives your first primer something to bind to. Depending on the colour depends on whether you need two coats of primer. I've used two as I was going from black to silver so Andy suggested I use a grey primer as a step up to the white. If you have minor scratches or chips you can also use a primer filler at this point. Before applying the primer. Wipe down the panel with a paint prep wipe to remove any grease. Also worth giving your arms a quick wipe as any dust that falls from you on to the surface will show up as a ringed spot when you primer and get progressively more obvious as you continue down the line. To that end its also worth having the surface you are spraying on covered in newspaper and then giving that a light spray with your primer/paint so that it traps any dust down on the paper with it. Primer time. Make sure you really shake the can so its well mixed. Start with your edges as these are the tricky buggers. Do not handle your panel if you can help it. Move yourself around the object. To get an even spray start your spraying with the jet not yet spraying the panel and then move in a smooth consistent pace across the panel so you get a nice even coating and end off the panel in a similar way as you started. What you're trying to avoid is creating a patch so wet that it runs. If you're too far away it will speckle and be bitty rather than smooth. I find being about a hands length away is about right. Too close and you get runs. Work in a methodical pattern using the wet edge of your last run as a guideline. Remember you'll need to angle the can in different ways to get into the weirder angles of your panel. You can see where I got a run here on this picture on the edge nearest the camera. If that does happen its not a major drama, wait til the primer has dried. We have a small heater going in the shed to get it nice and toasty so usually about 20 mins. Then using the 2000 grain wet and dry the area again til its flat. probably about half an inch to an inch around the offending area so that the transition is smooth and then just re primer that area lightly. Whilst its drying have a look for any flaws as the primer shows them up quite well. This one below is stress fractures from the manufacture of the cowl that were (with the exception of the big one) nigh on invisible before but its a good illustration of what i mean. We didnt have any primer filler that day so we just tried to use repeated coats of primer with limited success. I then flatted that down with 2000grain but that was just because of trying to get rid of flaws. You can see my 'run' has gone here Then I used a white primer. Same sketch with the prep wipe and the newspaper, just a quick spray. You can see where I've not got an even and thick enough coat on this picture. and now where its been redone Next up paint. Same again with the prep. Follow the same procedure as the primer. Its more of a problem if you get a run this time... it is possible to manipulate the panel so that the run spreads out enough to remove itself but that tricky especially if you've not got much paintless surface to handle. If it does happen. sand it (the run) back lightly to the primer coating and same method as mentioned with the primer and then try again. Leave this to dry solid. Depends how much paint you've applied. You may or may not need another coat. If you're doing detail around a masked off area you need to approach painting slightly differently, see below. I nearly cocked this up (it was my first attempt ever) so Andy quickly rescued it for me. This pic gives you an idea of the distance i mentioned. Painted Lacquer time. Prep the surface again. Then using the same technique apply a good thick coat of lacquer by doing lots of several passes. Try to avoid runs but don't launch the can through the window if you do as this can be sorted in your next step. Let the lacquer go rock solid. Leave it for today. Go watch the BSB on tv or something but don't go back to it to early. Once its nice and cured its time to polish cut it. Get some autoglym paint renovator (pink labelled bottle) Apply a small amount to a cloth and work into a small area in a small circular motion (shoe bulling style for those HM Forces amongst us) nice and firmly until you feel it start to grip. Wipe it off with a clean cloth and repeat until you have a nice deep watery shine. Thats why you applied lots of lacquer so you could get the shine without going through it to the paint. Just to illustrate my point about flaws. Without a primer filler we couldn't get rid of this.... it was invisible on the white primer and the silver paint. once the lacquer was on...oh hello. And on the bike Problems you might face. When doing his SRAD Andy had loads of trouble with it reacting with the primer. I've recently had it with a yzfr 125 panel as shown here. The light scratches went on to blister up like mad. We think its a cutting agent in the spray reacting with something on the panel. I sanded it right back past the paint after this and it seemed ok but the SRAD kept doing and andy found the only solution was to spray very finely with the primer wait for that to dry and then mist on another coating and so on. If you need to mask of areas then to stop the pain bleeding through you need to use a similar trick. As shown here That last coating was a bit enthusiastic and some did leak through...maybe a flaw in my masking. I use a scalpel to cut a clean line down the joins of the vents and the main body of the helmet and i think i might have nicked the tape covering the white near as i did a corner. The result was tidying that up this weekend. just sanded back with the 400 then 2000 wet and dry but not using water and only a light touch. Using the scalpel gives a nice clean edge...but its a ******* for for skipping off and scratching something. Hope this helps.