Suspension, Steering and Brakes rear anti roll bar bushes and drop links

Discussion in '7th Generation (2003-2008) [Acura TSX]' started by motorbikelover, Thursday 19th May, 2016.

  1. motorbikelover Senior Member ★ ★ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom david mee mansfield notts
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    I allways liked jap cars as they are well thought out and fairly easy to work on untill now. The accord is suffering from old age and the rear anti roll bar bushes and drop links were the culprit so i thought i would do front and rear together. Got some gen honda bushes and hd drop links for the rear (all ready got some on the front).
    Rear bushes and links went on easy so i moved to the front thinking half an hour would do the job, (no) the bolts holding the u clamps on the bush cannot be removed as they hit the floor pan so you have to drop the sub frame to get them out. (warning here don't take the bolts all the way out as you will put strain on the steering rack) if honda had put captive nuts on the u bracket and the bolts going in from underneath it would be a 10 min job. Moan over job done still knocks on the front.
     
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  2. hsyasin Valued Contributor ★ ★ ★ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Hammad Bury St. Edmunds
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    How did u come about doing the front bushes then?
    I'm having similar experience and its driving me nuts.. literary.. only crime i committed was, change lower control arms when they really didn't need changing and hey, presto.. front starts *** knocking.. it was such a quiteish car..
    so ordered all four drop links and bushes, as I suspect there was very faded knocking at the back.. did the drop links on all four corners, and was told by a friends friend(garage) bloke that right side inner tie rod is knocking so just change that..
    ok went ahead and bought full set(tie rod and track rod end).. changed it and it still *** knocks:shock::brickwall::hairout:
    @Members.. really need some help/advise..
    sooo... messed up right now, and thinking about changing the whole tie rod + track rod end on the left as well..:disagree:

    Another lovely thing happened.. I mean how difficult would it be to change rear ARB bushes... did left side in minutes.. then on to the right side and SNAP, i bolt broke, thought ok need some more penetrating fluid and nice and easy started turning the other bolt which moved a bit and then freakin snap:Rant::depressed::Sobbing:
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    the knocking sort of sounds like something is left loose, but it ain't
    @Zebster @Ichiban @SpeedyGee :help:
     
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  3. tonygw Valued Contributor ★ ★ ★ ☆ ☆

    Just out of interest what condition are the shocks and top mounts in.
    From past experience I had a similar problem on an old MX5 we once owned. Couldn't trace the knocking anywhere. Ended up changing the front shocks and hey presto. knocking gone.

    its just a suggestion so don't want to send you on a wild goose chase, just past experience I have had.

    Cheers
     
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  4. Zebster Expert Advisor ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

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    I don't see how changing the lower control arms (wishbones) would cause a knocking noise unless something has been broken or left loose. But how about the lower ball joints... did they have any wear that might have been made worse by their removal?

    Can you pin down which side the noise is?

    Were the replacement wishbones a decent make that are unlikely to have been made to an incorrect spec?
     
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  5. hsyasin Valued Contributor ★ ★ ★ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Hammad Bury St. Edmunds
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    @tonygw how do u tell if they're in a bad state, i mean a part from them being covered in road dirt, they seem fine

    @Zebster I used the same chap that u used and got meyle arms plus blueprint ball joints.. in fact changed driver side ball joint as that looked like its on its last legs...
    pinning the problem down is whats driving me nuts, i mean on some bumps its solid, but on some bumps right makes rattly sound or if u go over bumps from left end then left rattles:Unknown:
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    how can u tell/check if inner or outer tie rod is shot?
     
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  6. tonygw Valued Contributor ★ ★ ★ ☆ ☆

    mmm good question, without removing the shocks you can look for oil residue around the damper (a sign of leakage). You can try the bounce test to by giving the car a good shove downwards and seeing how much it bounces back. lots of bouncing means shock isn't working. couple of bounces means it should be ok. However I am not sure how accurate this method is.

    We took the shock off the MX5 and it had very little resistance when operated by hand so it was definitely shot.
     
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  7. hsyasin Valued Contributor ★ ★ ★ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Hammad Bury St. Edmunds
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    oh in that terms, shocks r quite okay.. they don't feel soggy at all, take quite a solid push.
     
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  8. motorbikelover Senior Member ★ ★ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom david mee mansfield notts
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    when i bought my car it had a bit of a shimmer at the steering wheel this was traced to both front wishbone bushes so i replaced them with gen honda all other bushes on the wishbone were rock solid problem solved. About 2 weeks later a vibration started on the steering this was down to a snapped drop link which i replaced with a pair of h/ duty ones from Germany job done.
    A knock then started on the rear so i checked all the joints and found the anti roll bar bushes were worn so i replaced these and the drop links at the same time i bought the front bushes all from honda (most after market only last a year or two). The rear bushes and links cured the rear knocking but the front is now knocking, ho hum. Next job is to check all the other links and ball joints with the car on the deck then on the ramp i will let you all know the out come when i find out. please don't be put off by my moan about the front roll bar rubbers it was some thing i did not expect but with a little time and care you can replace them at home with a few spanners.
     
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  9. hsyasin Valued Contributor ★ ★ ★ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Hammad Bury St. Edmunds
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    but for front bushes, did u had to undo subframe bolts, read somewhere that u'll need to undo sub frame bolts slightly to get some clearance to reach the back bolt?
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    I mean, even u undo the rear bolt with a spanner, u don't have enough clearance to take the bolt out, right?
     
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  10. motorbikelover Senior Member ★ ★ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom david mee mansfield notts
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    you will need axle stands or wood under the chassis so the frame. Can drop slacken front bolts a few turns then there is a sliding bracket held by 2bolts each side that you need to loosen but not remove theny you can undo the rear subframe bolts but DO NOT REMOVE place your car jack under the rear of the subframe to support it you can lower the subframe just enough to get at the rear u clamp bolts but it is fiddly dropping the frame with the rear bolts removed will put strain on the steering rack
     
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  11. hsyasin Valued Contributor ★ ★ ★ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Hammad Bury St. Edmunds
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    oh about knocking, had a friend sat with me on passenger side and he said it's definitely knocking badly on drivers side...:hairout:
    The only thing i remember i did differently to driverside was, when changing the lower control arms, I undid the horseshoe link top bolt whereas on passenger side i managed without undoing the top bolt.. but i've redone the top bolt when finished... what could have i done wrong here?
    or if the horseshoe link isn't properly tightened, would it just cause knocking or will there be other symptoms?
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    another thing i remember reading somewhere was that a knocking in front could be something to do with suspension bearing on the top, anyone knows how to check that?
     
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  12. Zebster Expert Advisor ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

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    If you left the horseshoe link top clamp loose then it would certainly make a knocking noise, as the bottom of the shock absorber would be insecure. It is an odd clamping arrangement and there is scope for fitting it badly.

    At least now you know which corner the noise is coming from. If it isn't that clamp then you could use some sort of pry bar to lever all bushes and joints in the immediate vicinity of the wishbone.
     
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  13. hsyasin Valued Contributor ★ ★ ★ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Hammad Bury St. Edmunds
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    @Zebster hmm...
    now its knocking even worse, like something is coming loose so will have a look as soon as i get home.
    One odd thing i noticed, u know my driverside caliper seized and had to get a replacement one, and after replacing that i changed front discs and pads with brembo... but when i took off wheel, i was shocked to see front driverside inner pad was worn almost to the end whereas the outer pad is almost good as new.. any thoughts as to why only inner would wear that rapidly?
    passenger side is all good.
     
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  14. motorbikelover Senior Member ★ ★ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom david mee mansfield notts
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    Yes common problem that is nearly allway down two things pads sized in carrier or carrier sized on on slider pins meaning only the caliper piston is working hence one pad wears more than the other all so check your brake hose on both full locks to make sure it is not kinking this is a know. Problem on some focus models and the accord has a similar hose fitting
     
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  15. hsyasin Valued Contributor ★ ★ ★ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Hammad Bury St. Edmunds
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    One thing just occurred to me, will CV joints make knocking sort of sound if they r on their way..
    I know u hear clicking sound while turning if they're gone, but that's not the case with me.. I just get a knock on some bumps, almost seems like something is loose:Unknown:
     
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  16. Zebster Expert Advisor ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

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    If the knocking only began after you replaced the wishbones, then it's most likely something to do with that. Anything else would be a coincidence and it would be best to concentrate on the more likely things first.
     
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  17. motorbikelover Senior Member ★ ★ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom david mee mansfield notts
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    You will mostly hear CV joints when turning but they will all so knock with no load on the drive line EG slowing down And accelerating best way to check them is with mole grips or pipe wrench clamp on to the drive shaft and rock to see if there is any play which reminds me that I have grease on the inside of my wheel so the CV boot has gone oh joy
     
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  18. hsyasin Valued Contributor ★ ★ ★ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Hammad Bury St. Edmunds
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    aah i remember one more thing, while doing the front lower ball joint, after disconnecting the wheel hub from all the suspension parts, i accidentally pulled the hub outwards instead of hammering the driveshaft and the driveshaft popped out a bit from the inner side, but that was quickly corrected by my garage friend, he pushed it back in.. could that now be causing all those clunks?
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    i know :telloff:
     
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  19. motorbikelover Senior Member ★ ★ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom david mee mansfield notts
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    If it is same as the rear that means the wheel bearing has separated I would recommend you change it
     
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  20. hsyasin Valued Contributor ★ ★ ★ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Hammad Bury St. Edmunds
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    oh sorry, scrap that, the knock/clunk was there before that, hence my reason for changing wheel hub lower ball joint thinking that's gone...
    @motorbikelover what do mean when u say same as rear?
     
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