Suspension, Steering and Brakes Rear brake issue

Discussion in '1st Generation (2004-2011)' started by RobsyUK, Saturday 30th Apr, 2016.

  1. RobsyUK Valued Contributor ★ ★ ★ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Rob Milton Keynes
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    So I've had brand new calipers fitted on the rear and braided lines on all 4 corners.
    The moment I left the garage the brakes felt a little soft as if they we're not bled but soon enough they felt good as new.
    Tonight my wife comes back from a 20mile trip and the car stinks to high heaven.
    Both rear wheels are exceedingly hot as if the calipers are seezed.
    If they were not bleed correctly could this cause it?
    Or did I buy a car with a bigger underlying problem...
    Master cylinder, booster or proportioner?

    It's inly the tears that are locked on
    And yes I'll go straight back to the garage Monday.
     
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  2. SpeedyGee Administrator Staff Team

    England Speedy Birmingham
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    Usually the proportioning valve is attached to the bulkhead. Also if that fails it's usually the diagonally opposite wheels that lock.
    EG Front left and rear right or Front right and rear left. Not both rears or both fronts.

    Also if it was the proportioning valve that had failed you won't be able to move the car at all, the brake pressure would be too much.

    Bank holiday on Monday, will they be open ?
     
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  3. RobsyUK Valued Contributor ★ ★ ★ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Rob Milton Keynes
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    Pants a bank holiday!!

    Well at least we can rule out one item.
    What would cause just the rears to stay on
    Been out cold engine literally half a mile down the road and I can smell them in the cabin. Get home and the rear alloy is very hot (both sides.)
     
    Last edited: Saturday 30th Apr, 2016
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  4. RobsyUK Valued Contributor ★ ★ ★ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Rob Milton Keynes
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    Managed to get it in today and they think it's the handbrake sticking.

    I hope so as that will be an easy resolve but how is it applying more and more during transit?
     
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  5. Nighthawk Guest

    United Kingdom Richard Milton Keynes
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    I was going to say - sounds like a handbrake sticking issue to me - its likely to be the handbrake splitter unit which is sticking which would explain why both are sticking and not just one.

    Need to get her in the air and manually check the engagement and disengagement. You should be able to see where the cable remains taunt and where it slackens up a bit as well - this can help pin point the issue
     
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  6. DieselPower Senior Member ★ ★ ☆ ☆ ☆

    You'd think they would test the handbrake by turning the rear wheels with the handbrake on and off. I hope this doesn't warp your rotors.
     
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  7. RobsyUK Valued Contributor ★ ★ ★ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Rob Milton Keynes
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    Thing is I was able to push the car with the hand brake off at home. Then went for a drive and the more I used the brakes the more I could feel it dragging until I was near on at a stand still
     
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  8. DieselPower Senior Member ★ ★ ☆ ☆ ☆

    Interesting, our handbrakes use brake shoes that are not connected to the piston on the caliper so braking should not affect the handbrake. This makes me think that you have air in the system and its upsetting your callipers.
     
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  9. Nighthawk Guest

    United Kingdom Richard Milton Keynes
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    Have a look on your discs - is there a white heat band on them at all?
     
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  10. RobsyUK Valued Contributor ★ ★ ★ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Rob Milton Keynes
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    Before I had the calipers replaced you could see lines running around the surface of the disk where the pad was scoring in.
    Although they felt smooth and don't have a lip.
    Now they look normal.

    Would a hand brake being on 'full' cause that much heat
     
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  11. RobsyUK Valued Contributor ★ ★ ★ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Rob Milton Keynes
    405
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    The garage are putting the original calipers on to see if it's the new ones at fault.
    I don't think it is but I bet what ever it is it's going to be expensive....
     
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  12. DieselPower Senior Member ★ ★ ☆ ☆ ☆

    The garage seems flummoxed. Although they seem to have eliminated the handbrake. Perhaps there is a genuine issue with your calipers but I don't get a good vibe from these guys.

    I remember having bother (aka getting fleeced) with garages about 10 years ago. I channelled my frustration into DIY. It's time to get tooled up!
    - - - Updated - - -
    The more I think about this it seems that it could be a slider pin issue. Either they were not lubed up or perhaps they were overtightened. This would explain why the piston cannot retract.
     
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  13. RobsyUK Valued Contributor ★ ★ ★ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Rob Milton Keynes
    405
    143
    They are a pretty good garage to be fair - they have always done my old cars with no problems.
    The sliders on the old calipers moved in and out ok but the Pistons were hard to push in - that's why I had them replaced.
    Over tightening could be an interesting resolve.
    Easy to over look when using an air gun rushing rather then following guidelines. It's both sides that lock on.
    If over tightened though would they ease up after a while? - then lock back up on the next outing after a few miles.
    (At home hand brake off I was able to push the car freely)
     
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  14. RobsyUK Valued Contributor ★ ★ ★ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Rob Milton Keynes
    405
    143
    So it turns out the calipers I supplied the bolt holes don't line up 100% causing them to sit wrong which is causing the problem.
    With the old calipers on I still have the discs getting very warm - not as hot compared to the new calipers but I don't know what to do.
    I have literally wasted £380. Or paid £380 for some rear pads, fluid & new pipes fitted.
     
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  15. DieselPower Senior Member ★ ★ ☆ ☆ ☆

    Really sorry to hear that bud. It's depressing when these things happen and it's something that knaws away at you.

    Is there any chance of returning the calipers or using the same supplier to get the correct fit? You never did mention where you sourced the calipers from.

    I think you may have reduced the problem sightly by giving the shimms and surrounding areas a good clean and grease. Perhaps the heat is caused by the pads and discs bedding in, my new pads+disca were warm for the first few days.

    I'm suspicious of the whole calipers binding issue. No reccollection of anyone on here reporting this issue on the FR-V. I've got 165k on mine and I did the rear discs and pads recently and the original caliper moved in and out easily despite the caliper looking crusty! I did open the brake fluid reservoir otherwise the caliper won't go back easily. These calipers don't need twisting, just push back with a g-clamp.
     
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  16. RobsyUK Valued Contributor ★ ★ ★ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Rob Milton Keynes
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    @DieselPower

    They were from Brake Parts | BrakeParts.co.uk

    The kick in the face is that I painted them before fitting and hope this doesn't effect returning them.

    The old calipers were sprayed black on the car - the slider rubbers were caked in it. Even though the sliders moved freely.
    I took them apart and cleaned all rust and debris before ordering new calipers as it didn't resolve the issue / smell.

    I didn't take the cap off when pushing the piston in which could explain why they were hard.

    The rear calipers have always been warmer then the fronts after a drive unless spirited not that spirited in this bus :Wink:

    Before the new rear calipers completely locked on, the rear new discs had score marks that looked like symptoms of sticking calipers they now look smooth with new pads and probably being squeezed to an inch of their life.

    I'm still in the 3 months warranty with the car dealer (until the end of this month) so I'll let these new pads bed in and if I can smell the brakes like I did before this mess started I'll go back to the dealer.
     
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  17. DieselPower Senior Member ★ ★ ☆ ☆ ☆

    Yeah the paint might be an issue but worth a try. Hope this works out for you mate.

    I had advisories for 3 years on my rear pads. When I finally changed the discs and pads I noticed the wear on the pads was uneven and the discs were scored and the caliper didn't move as freely as it should. This was all down to rust underneath the shims that wedged the pads in place.
     
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  18. RobsyUK Valued Contributor ★ ★ ★ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Rob Milton Keynes
    405
    143
    When I took the old pass out I checked for rust etc
    I guess all I can do is see what happens over the next few days with the new pads and fluid
     
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  19. RobsyUK Valued Contributor ★ ★ ★ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Rob Milton Keynes
    405
    143
    Well I've picked the car up with original calipers and I'm convinced the rear is still locking up.
    Maybe I should try to loosen the caliper to see if that resolves it or wait X amount of miles for the rear pads to bed in.

    I've done half a mile and the rear discs literally scalded me. Fronts are cold.
     
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  20. DieselPower Senior Member ★ ★ ☆ ☆ ☆

    I would start from scratch and try and diagnose the issue.

    Sounds like this is not a bedding-in issue.
     
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