Suspension, Steering and Brakes Rear brake pad issue

Discussion in '4th Generation (2013-2017)' started by C5CONVERT, Thursday 14th Apr, 2016.

  1. C5CONVERT Junior Member ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom David Bedford
    9
    2
    After an absence of 6 weeks I returned home the other day and started driving my CR-V again (2012 EX 2.2 diesel manual, 31,000 miles). After a 6 week lay up the brake discs are brown with surface corrosion which soon disappears with use.

    However, I noticed today that the area of the disc "cleaned" by the pads on the rear offside is markedly narrower than that on the rear nearside (further away from both the outside and inside edges of the disc. Feeling the slight lip near the edge of the offside disc seems to indicate that previously the surface area of the pads was the same as the nearside.

    Unless reduced pad area is a means of indicating wear, I suspect a damaged pad and intend to replace all the rear pads, but before I do has anyone experienced anything similar?

    (Makes a change from cleaning up corrosion between the (alloy) caliper/(cast iron) suspension arm joint on the old Citroen).
     
  2. Ichiban Founder Staff Team

    England CJ Leeds
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    This is common on all Honda's you have to annually strip and clean the brake and make sure in the inner circumference and outer circumference don't have rust getting hold. Its this rust which limits the contact to the pad and cuts a groove in the pads and eats them.

    The only way to limit this sort of corrosion is to store the car indoors all the time in the Uk.
     
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  3. C5CONVERT Junior Member ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom David Bedford
    9
    2
    Hello Ichiban and thank you for your reply. Honda worse than the Citroen, which was a once every five year job! My car has to live outside, but I should not have any prolonged absences from the UK from now on which should help (been away 14 weeks over the winter). Next fine day I'll give front and rear a good clean, check the wear and report back on what I find.

    David
     
  4. 155695 Premium Member Club Supporter

    England Keith Essex
    347
    164
    I'd have thought rusty discs was a small price to pay for avoiding a UK winter (providing of course you were somewhere warmer)!

    Keith
     
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  5. C5CONVERT Junior Member ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom David Bedford
    9
    2
    Right an update.

    First to Keith - yes, 8 warm weeks in Spain at the end of last year and 6 even warmer weeks in Australia recently (we experienced the warmest April day on record in Sydney at 32 degrees).

    Secondly, I removed the Honda's rear brake pads this morning (as recommended by Ichiban) and cleaned off the corrosion on the lugs at the ends of all the pads before replacing them with a small amount of copper slip on the sliding surfaces. After refitting the offending pad appears to be in contact with the disc across the whole of its (the pad's) width. There was a noticeable difference between the "stuck" side (which faces the prevailing wind and rain when parked at home) and the "free" side which was operating normally. I suspect the problem arose mainly because I drive across a muddy field several times a week and just before I went away I hosed the mud off my wheels and wheel arches. This will probably be an annual job.

    As an aside, the removal of the brake calipers was quite straightforward - remove the bolts at the top and bottom and slide the caliper off before removing the pads. I couldn't find the torque required for the caliper bolts anywhere so used 30 lb/foot on refitting as they took little effort to loosen on removal.

    While I had the wheels off I swapped the front wheels to the rear and rear to front - after 31,000 miles the rear tyres had 5mm tread, the front 3.5mm, so I should get another year out of them before replacing all four. I reset the tyre pressures but forgot to recalibrate the tyre pressure monitoring system and the warning light came on. Easily fixed with the help of the handbook.

    The other good news is that I found the refuelling filler tube which was attached to a plastic clip underneath the jack. This will make it easier to put Miller's diesel additive into the tank when I fill up.

    With any luck the next adventure will be the year 4 service at the end of November.

    David
     
  6. SpeedyGee Administrator Staff Team

    England Speedy Birmingham
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  7. Ichiban Founder Staff Team

    England CJ Leeds
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    Someone remind me to do the CR-V guide across the range for my To Do List please.
     
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  8. Bomber209 Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Lanky Aberdeen
    99
    36
    Hi All, Caliper bolt Torque is 16lbft or 22Nm. Min in service Pad thickness is 1.6mm or 1/16"
     
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  9. Bomber209 Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Lanky Aberdeen
    99
    36
    SpeedyGee Hi, Is the brake maintenance link for LHD cars only?? I notice the first caliper to bleed is the L/H front. You should always start nearest to the Master Cylinder and finish at the furthest away. ie F O/S, F N/S, R O/S, R N/S for RHD cars. :showoff:
     
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  10. legend-ary Moderator Staff Team

    United Kingdom Legend The Big Smoke
    3,800
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    Don't know if that's the case here but there are certain cars which have the exact opposite I.e you start from the furthest wheel first. Usually the procedure is listed in the workshop manual
     
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  11. SpeedyGee Administrator Staff Team

    England Speedy Birmingham
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    @Bomber209 Traditionally yes but with cars with ABS modulators fitted you need to follow what the WSM tells you.

    In this case the WSM tells you to start at Nearside Front (on an RHD car).
     
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  12. Bomber209 Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Lanky Aberdeen
    99
    36
    SpeedyGee Hi; OK I hold my hand up, I was using rule of thumb. Any ideas where I can get a WSM for the Mk IV CR-V??
     
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