Body, Paint & Styling Repair of rusted spare wheel well.

Discussion in '6th Generation (1997-2002)' started by k20a3, Saturday 4th Jun, 2016.

  1. k20a3 Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    So I had a leak in the boot for ages before I solved it, but this took its toll on the well in the boot. The hold down for the spare wheel tore off. image.

    So I cut out the rotten part with a cut off tool. Also peeled off some of the sound deadening to make sure I got all the rust.
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    Here is the dirty rotten piece I took out :thumbdown:

    image.

    Really rotten....

    Then I cleaned up and re shaped the area with a die grinder, wire brush and sand paper.
    - - - Updated - - -
    image.


    Under this part of the boot is a crossmember under the car, for strength I think.


    image.

    I tried the new piece in situ and it seems fine, so the I coated the top face of the crossmember which will be very hard to do once the new piece is welded in place.


    image.

    I am going to give the paint a day to dry then weld the new piece in.

    This is an underneath view showing the crossmember, you can see a little of the protective paint dripping through.
    image.

    Will feel better once this has been sorted
     
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  2. Nighthawk Guest

    United Kingdom Richard Milton Keynes
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    Look forward to seeing the finished article
     
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  3. k20a3 Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    Thanks, it's a job I've been trying to get around to for some time now. I should have attacked it earlier but it's nearly done now anyway.
     
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  4. exec Premium Member Club Supporter

    United Kingdom London
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    Good job man, important lesson there too.
     
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  5. k20a3 Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    Thanks,

    I have got as far as welding the new plate in place. I started grinding the welds down but it was getting late.





    image.

    Next job is to fabricate a small anchor point for the spare wheel.


    Joe
     
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  6. Harvey Expert Advisor ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

    Looks good that mate. I've also had a leak in the boot in the past. Mine was coming from the electric aerial, what about yours?

    Also as for rust. Watch the cills at the front where the wings join, mine went by the rear jacking point, and also where the engine crossmember support brackets join the body.
     
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  7. k20a3 Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    Thanks Harvey,

    The water was coming in from a split rubber boot which connects the tailgate electrics. Thanks for the heads up on the other spots to look out for. I hope to do some more work to it this week.

    Joe
     
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  8. Harvey Expert Advisor ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

    Cool, hope everything goes to plan. I have to get my cill patched again and where the bottom hinge at the corner of the windscreen where debris builds up. Will get that done tho as it's a good car
     
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  9. SpeedyGee Administrator Staff Team

    England Speedy Birmingham
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  10. k20a3 Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    Thanks guys.

    I hope to start welding up a new spare anchor soon. Will put up more pics when I do it.

    Joe
     
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  11. Harvey Expert Advisor ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

    Is it worth getting the part from another scrap car and welding that in?
     
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  12. SpeedyGee Administrator Staff Team

    England Speedy Birmingham
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    I've probably got a few lying around the garage as they get chopped off when installing LPG tanks LOL
     
    Last edited: Wednesday 15th Jun, 2016
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  13. k20a3 Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    :Smile:I did try my local breakers yard, but when they checked the car they had it also had the same problem and was not a good donor. It's an excellent suggestion but I think it will be ok with the bits I have. I will make sure it's just as solid as the original.
     
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  14. SpeedyGee Administrator Staff Team

    England Speedy Birmingham
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    Found one

    IMG_20160617_193349.

    If you need it just let me know, I'll post it out to you.
     
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  15. k20a3 Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    A big thanks to SpeedyGee for helping me out with this part. So glad I joined the forum with such a great community :Happy:

    Will keep you posted on any progress this coming week.

    Thanks all....
     
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  16. Nighthawk Guest

    United Kingdom Richard Milton Keynes
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    @k20a3 - what are you using to seal around the ground back welds prior to painting?
     
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  17. k20a3 Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    I was going to use zinc spray to coat the bare metal which is a similar colour to the original anyway. What do you think?
     
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  18. Nighthawk Guest

    United Kingdom Richard Milton Keynes
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    If it is a decent quality anti corrosion zinc spray then that will be fine (something along the quality lines of Scotch 1617 zinc spray would be more than enough). Alot of people don't bother (or don't know) and just spray over it with primer and the rust just starts up again so its good to see you are going to protect against that :Thumbup:. Make sure you coat the underside too
     
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  19. k20a3 Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    Yes thanks.

    I thought today I would make a start on the rust around the front wheel arch area. Boy was I in for a suprise:depressed:

    I found that where the subframe bolts to the chassis above the driveshaft was rotten. Good job I am off this week. I managed to lower the subframe about 2 inches so I could clean around the area and shape some metal to fit, very tricky work!

    Sanded all the rust down with a 4.5" angle grinder with a metal sanding flap disc. Anywhere I couldn't get to with that I had to use an angled die grinder with a grinding bit.

    Got rid of nearly all of the rust then sprayed it all with several coats of zinc spray. Once it's all welded I will coat all of it with "fortress metal paint" from b&q. I have used this in the past. An incredibly sticky paint which sticks to anything and lasts really well.

    Finished for today, wrecked:sleep:

    Tomorrow will be tack welding in the new plate, hammering it into final shape then seam weld it....
     
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  20. Harvey Expert Advisor ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

    oh dear that's not such a good thing to hear. Have you got any photos of the rotten area?

    Glad you got it sorted though mate.
     
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