Suspension, Steering and Brakes Replacing Rear Callipers on Saloon ICTDI

Discussion in '7th Generation (2003-2008) [Acura TSX]' started by Accord_N22, Wednesday 11th Mar, 2015.

  1. Accord_N22 Top Contributor ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆

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    Hi All,

    Just a quick one. I am looking to change my rear callipers. The procedure itself seems ok in regards to removing the callipers and bleeding etc but how does the hand brake cable come off? I have never actually removed one before?
    When the banjo bolt is removed does it need to be blocked to stop it from leaking?

    is it a matter of remove, bolts for slider pins, remove banjo bolt for brake hose, remove handbrake cable, remove calliper, fit new calliper fit all removed items in reverse order. Bleed.

    Do I need any special tools to remove it at all?

    Never actually bled brakes before, probably the only maintenance task I never attempted so very keen get comfortable into doing this.

    Should be getting an ALB560 pressure brake bleeder soon too if things work out :Smile:
    otherwise I will have to stick with my draper 37316 one man bleed bottle - LOL

    PS: if using the standard one way valve, brake pedal pumping and bottle method do I need to have the car on pre ignition or just totally off

    Thanks guys
     
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  2. Nels Moderator Staff Team

    For the handbrake cable, it is possible to lever it off the caliper, but it's not easy. The return spring is quite strong, so watch your fingers. Assuming its similar to my PFL, better to slacken the cable first. (Handbrake Adjustment on my CN1)

    You can see how it attaches on this photo (again, PFL)
    As for the fluid and bleeding, there are others that can advise better when you've disconnected the caliper.

    You will need a hex key (or similar) to get the slider bolts out (Rear Disc Brake & Pad Replacement
    This may help.


    IMG_5750  D.
     
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  3. SpeedyGee Administrator Staff Team

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    Have a look at this post Brake caliper removal by @DeviateDefiant it'll give you an idea of how to take the cable off.

    For other info on brakes, have a look at this guide Rear Disc Brake & Pad Replacement

    Can think of any special tools that you may need.

    One man bleed bottle should be good enough to bleed the brakes. Don't open the bleed nipple more than absolutely necessary. Apply a little bit of grease around the bleed nipple after you have go the on man bleed bottle connected to try and stop air getting in that way.

    Honda ABS modules don't need ignition on for brake bleeding, so need to do anything on that front.
     
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  4. Accord_N22 Top Contributor ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆

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    Thanks @SpeedyGee and @Nels
    That's great info there. had a look today at the clip which holds the hand brake cable and it seems relatively easy to remove. Its not rusty or anything so should be easy to remove. I will order some new ones from Honda just in case I break them.

    Should save me some pennies doing this myself, haven't replaced callipers before so should be interesting.

    Will keep you posted. new callipers are on order so hopefully get the work done in a couple weeks
     
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  5. Nighthawk Guest

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    Replacing calipers is nice and easy mate, pinch off the brake line, break free the banjo bolt but keep it snugged up just a bit, release brake cable, undo carrier bolts (17mm's I believe they are), remove caliper. If you are replacing the discs and pads, now is agood time to do those, and refitting the caliper is opposite of removal as they say. Then just bleed the system out.

    Really quite a nice easy job.
     
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  6. Accord_N22 Top Contributor ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆

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    Thanks @Nighthawk
    Sounds really easy :Smile:
    Hopefully it will be a success until I get stuck with a rusty handbrake hose clip - lol

    Thanks again guys
    Will keep you posted on how I get on
     
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  7. Accord_N22 Top Contributor ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆

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    Hi All,

    Just an update. I attempted to replace the rear callipers today but was unsuccessful. Very disappointed as I thought it would be pretty straight forward but as always with cars there is always something.

    I removed the clip holding the hand brake cable ok but the cable going through the calliper bracket seems to be stuck which I assume to be seized in place. After 8 years being splashed with muck and road water I wasn't really surprized. This stopped be in my tracks as I couldn't continue.

    I tried soaking it in WD40 and tapping gently with a hammer but was no use. I didn't want to damage it as the car is still useable.

    Would a good garage be able to free the cable from the calliper or is it new hand brake cable time?? Hand brake cables aren't cheap and checked on lings they are approx. £80 per side. Eurocarparts are around £40 per side.

    Very disappointed. More expense yet again - lol


    DSC02532_zpsfitlp3o1.

    DSC02528_zpsp740ynto.
     
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  8. SpeedyGee Administrator Staff Team

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  9. Nels Moderator Staff Team

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  10. Accord_N22 Top Contributor ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆

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    Thanks Speedygee.
    Would that nut above the torx screw need to be removed aswell?

    Is the handbrake cable assembly easy to remove? Would it be easier to just buy new handbrake cable assy?
    If I remove the bracket with the cable what tricks can be performed to separate it bearing in mind I don't have workshop facilities - wish I did - lol
     
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  11. Nighthawk Guest

    United Kingdom Richard Milton Keynes
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    Ideally yes mate.

    When we did @DeviateDefiant ATR, that screw rounded off so we had to use other methods of disconnecting the cable. As shown in the pictures on that log, used a dremel to cut away the rust holding the handbrake cable onto the bracket which allowed me to break it free and disconnect it from the caliper and then pull it free. As your car is newer, and likely to be in better condition, then it shouldnt be that bad (hopefully) to remove it.

    The handbrake assembly where it connects to the caliper isnt hard to remove in theory. On the picture above, see where the cable connects to the caliper, pull that lever back, should be able to do it with your hands or a pair of grips, and then use a screwdriver to slip the end of the cable off. All you need to do then is remove the cable from the bracket, this caused us huge problems. The other caliper, passenger side, just disconnected in about 30 seconds flat.

    We didnt have any workshop facilities, we worked on a driveway by torchlight for some of the time.

    BTW, in relation to the one man bleeding method, keep the ignition completely turned off. Its a mechanical process rather than any sort of electrical one on our cars. Some cars need to have their ABS modulators activated, but on our Accords, we don't need to. Bleeding brakes is pretty easy, bleeding your clutch is even easier.
     
    Last edited: Saturday 4th Apr, 2015
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  12. SpeedyGee Administrator Staff Team

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    No, that's for the handbrake lever mechanism itself. Leave that on.

    If you've got a (handheld) impact driver, use that on the torx bolt it will loose off dead easy with that.

    One like this
    JSAK208.
     
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  13. Accord_N22 Top Contributor ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆

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    Thanks for your help guys, much appreciated :Smile:

    I managed to get the hand brake cable free this weekend.
    I got the car tracked at kwik fit by a mate of mine (mates rates) yesterday and I asked him if he could have a go at freeing up the cable assembly for me

    With a crow bar and hammer it gave it a good whack and after several attempts the hand brake cable was free.(He hit it pretty hard several times and I thought it was going to break something - lol)
    Very relieved :Smile:

    DSC02561_zpsxc6zihsg.

    I changed the calliper over today and installed brand new OEM Honda pads also for the front aswell and gave all callipers and the disc hub a nice coat of paint. All successful.
    I also coated the handbrake cable full of copper grease so next time it should be easy to remove

    DSC02576_zpsxyr486vu.

    DSC02597_zps5x0t7yag.


    I bled both rear callipers using the ALB 560 unit and all seems ok. (Have to say the ALB560 pressure brake bleeding unit is an impressive bit of kit)

    DSC02551_zpsr9ixyres.


    My next issue now is that the pedal feel doesn't seem quite right. After I replaced the rear callipers and bled and adjusted the handbrake the pedal feel felt ok. I then replaced only the pads on the front callipers, during this time I pushed the piston back in with the brake reservoir cap off) . After re-assembly, wheels back on I drove it around and the pedal feel is pretty soft at times and it seems there is alot of pedal travel then before. It brakes ok and I can still probably drive it around but it doesn't feel the same as before.

    I know the pads are new so would take a few miles to bed them in and regain some bite but surely i can't have induced any air into the system by pushing the front piston back in with the brake reservoir cap being off?

    When I ran the Pressure bleeder on both rear callipers I was 100% sure there was no more bubbles travelling through the tube. When I bled the rear callipers do I need to do the fronts too?

    Do I need to bleed the entire system?

    Any thoughts would be appreciated :Smile:

    Thanks again guys
     
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  14. Nighthawk Guest

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    Good to see you got it sorted

    Unless you have clamped off the brake hose when you opened the system to replace the caliper, you need to bleed the entire system.
     
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  15. Nels Moderator Staff Team

    I would have bled the whole system, if only to ensure I've got good dry brake fluid throughout. Bit odd if the pedal is soft. Sounds like there may be some air in there somewhere.
    There may be other reasons, but that's about as much as I know. The pressure bleeder is a great piece of kit.
     
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  16. Accord_N22 Top Contributor ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆

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    Thanks guys.
    Nighthawk, I clamped the hose on the first calliper I did and when I went round to do the other side I forgot to clamp the hose . When I released the banjo bolt from the calipers it started dripping. I then clamped the hose to stop the leak.

    So it seems I would need to bleed the whole system.
    I'll give it a go this coming weekend

    Your right Nels I should have bled the whole system but I think I crammed in too much to do this afternoon then started to lose light I started to rush to finish and pack everything up.
     
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  17. SpeedyGee Administrator Staff Team

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    Air travels upwards very quickly, so some must have got in and got up the brake pipe before you managed to get the clamp on.
     
    Last edited: Monday 6th Apr, 2015
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  18. Accord_N22 Top Contributor ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆

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    I see, thanks speedy.
    Even though I bled the rears and no air bubbles were coming out , could air still be trapped effecting the fronts ?
     
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  19. Nighthawk Guest

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    Its possible.

    When was the last time you bled all the brakes on her? Its a good idea to do it every 2 years regardless
     
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  20. Accord_N22 Top Contributor ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆

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    The brakes were bled in May last year, I did a brake fluid check with an electronic meter today and the fluid is still ok

    IMAG2303_zpsys4cndlh.

    Prior to the calliper change today the brakes had an excellent feel
     
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