Off-Topic Rusty nuts and bolts

Discussion in 'Off-Topic Chat' started by SayamaAccord, Wednesday 7th Dec, 2011.

  1. SayamaAccord Top Contributor ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆

    What's the best stuff to use to get rusty nuts and bolts off?

    PlusGas seems highly recommended although when I tried it once or twice it didn't solve the problem I had in front of me.

    I've found WD40 works well but some people say it's not really designed to do this.

    In America they seem to rave over PB Blaster and Kroil but I don't think you can really get them over here, or if you see them they are silly money as they include postage from the USA.

    I've even seen it suggested on the web that a 50/50 mix of automatic transmission fluid and acetone works better than anything you can buy in a can!

    For me the best results have come from using good old fashioned bog standard penetrating oil containing graphite and leaving it overnight.

    Anyone found any miracle cures to this age old problem?
  2. Paul Expert Advisor ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

    I've got a small cooks blowtorch which I've used a couple of times. Takes an age but has helped.

    Failing that good quality tools and a long bar usually do the trick. The secret is to get it freed slightly and soak again with spray and keep doing this until it's out.

    For carbonised injectors I've been told a can of coke left overnight eats it away and allows a stubborn injector to come free.
  3. SayamaAccord Top Contributor ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆

    Funny you should say that...I invested in a Rothenberger Superfire 2 with some Christmas money from last year...not had cause to use it yet but I will sooner or later, because one or two usually seem to stick no matter how much you douse them!
    Last edited: Wednesday 7th Dec, 2011
  4. Paul Expert Advisor ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

    Bit larger than my cooks torch. Can you do Creme Brûlée with yours though :Smile:
    Ichiban likes this.
  5. I-S Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    Soak in wd40 or similar, then spray with freezer spray.
  6. Ichiban Founder Staff Team

    England CJ Leeds
    The one I have been using for years has been Silkolene silkopen fortified with graphite it works wonders and never disappointed me. Otherwise its WD40 if I have run out of SS.


    I may have to try out Rothenberger Superfire 2 or when you down my way get it down with you lets have a look at this wonder fluid.
  7. SayamaAccord Top Contributor ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆

    I looked at something called Kroil, but it's really difficult to get in the UK except for silly money, so in the end I just got a can of this, which I think will do the job fine left overnight:-

    Carlube Motor Oil - Carlube Penetrating Oil
  8. Beefy Expert Advisor ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

    United Kingdom Stoke
    big hammer.....enough said!
  9. Ichiban Founder Staff Team

    England CJ Leeds
    I like it :Wink:
  10. SayamaAccord Top Contributor ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆



  11. Ichiban Founder Staff Team

    England CJ Leeds
    I want a compressor for my garage all these penetrating fluid can sit idle... In theory.
    SpeedyGee likes this.
  12. Mike c Valued Contributor ★ ★ ★ ☆ ☆

    United Kingdom Mike Telford
    Gt85 is very good, smells nice too!
    Also good for spraying on leads etc in the engine bay
    Mike c
  13. jaywood Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    Flat cola works as well as WD or GT, lemon juice (not the fake stuff in the plastic lemon) works as its a chemical present in citrus fruits that breaks down the crud/rust/muck and more rust.
    Big hammer, bar or two, a good kettle and give all the nuts a good soaking over 24hrs pays dividends.
    Nothing beats heat though.
  14. Ichiban Founder Staff Team

    England CJ Leeds
    I don't like heat when there is a seal behind you end spending more hours than required not to mention a new seal.
  15. hedleyf Senior Member ★ ★ ☆ ☆ ☆

    Do a lot of restoration work and been surprised at the nuts and bolts that have come undone, the problem with soaking is no matter what you use if it can,t get in to the thread it won,t do its job, the rust forms a seal that will not allow the oil through, if you can get a hammer in there and hit the bolt top this breaks the thread pitches apart ,same for the nut ,shock it to break the seal, then I soak in plus gas for a while and then heat with a blow torch,try to work back and forth with a good fit socket,6 point hex if pos and as best as poss leverage, this always seems best for me, the same for sump and diff bungs etc that have a alloy or copper washer,by tapping the bung you can then sometimes undo it without even a spanner,in this instance it hammers the washer and crushes it rendering the bung loose,seen so many people struggle with bungs as they sometimes have a very. Shallow grip,
  16. SayamaAccord Top Contributor ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆

    How hard do you need to hit it to break the thread pitches apart? On a scale of 1 -10 from a gentle tap to full force.
  17. Ichiban Founder Staff Team

    England CJ Leeds
    Is the thread pitch of a bolt is already in its casting how will you break it let alot get to it.? if the top shears off its a case of tap it or notching the top and then grabbing it with pliers and rotate.

  18. hedleyf Senior Member ★ ★ ☆ ☆ ☆

    As you see in the picture the thread pitch only slides/contacts on one side of the pitch depending if you are tightening or loosening it makes contact on the side of the pitch ,the thread angle,this moves freely when all is well but as time goes on the contact surface [ which was possibly assembled dry] binds together ,this could be worst if different metals are used for the thread and bolt as a further problem of chemical reaction takes place. .hitting the bolt will cause shock waves to travel through the bolt shocking the contact surface and loosening its hold, its a bit like the set of steel balls some have on their desks where you drop one and the transfer of the wave causes the ball on the other end to move, and visa versa, when a stubborn nut and bolt is stuck you need to work with the nut shocking it with a hammer and another hammer or a steel dead weight on the opposite side to where you strike if you have room do this on all flats of the nut, you need to hit fairly hard and make sure the counter weight opposite makes good contact with the nut, its the same effect you use when releasing a suspension ball joint,you hammer it with strong blows with a weight on the opposite side the shock waves release the ball joint taper, hope this all makes sense.

    If you get to the picture above and shear the top off the best way I find if there is anything left sticking out, is to weld a large nut to it ,then you get extra grip to undo. put the nut up to the stub and weld inside thus creating a new bolt which now has a bigger head.
  19. SpeedyGee Administrator Staff Team

    England Speedy Birmingham
    Not only do you get extra grip from the newly welded but but the heat from the weld will also help it free the stuck sheared bolt.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Compressor makes a big difference, especially when doing big jobs like gearbox work or engine replacement.

    Build one like mine CJ :Smile: