Engine & Gearbox Slight hesitation.

Discussion in '6th Generation (1997-2002)' started by Rhys, Tuesday 2nd Jul, 2013.

  1. Rhys Valued Contributor ★ ★ ★ ☆ ☆

    Whilst driving to work this morning I was just coming off the exit on a roundabout and the road was clear ahead so I decided to give it the full beans in 2nd gear (I can't help it the noise is wonderful ;-) ) and as the revs built up I had a slight hesitation in power I could feel the car back off slightly and then it carried on revving away as normal. As this happened I think around 5500rpm to 6500rpm I thought I'd take it up that far in 3rd gear and it didn't happen again !!! Any ideas what would cause this slight loss ?? Thanks in advance.
     
    Last edited: Tuesday 2nd Jul, 2013
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  2. Ichiban Founder Staff Team

    England CJ Leeds
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    try it a couple of time to see if it was just a one off and not something permanent . No point doing something to the car when it doesn't do it again.:Wink:
     
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  3. Rhys Valued Contributor ★ ★ ★ ☆ ☆

    Gave it a good ol blast on the way home and nothing :Smile: so let's just leave at that !
     
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  4. Ichiban Founder Staff Team

    England CJ Leeds
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    blown the gremlin away :Smile:
     
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  5. Rhys Valued Contributor ★ ★ ★ ☆ ☆

    indeed :Smile:
     
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  6. Rhys Valued Contributor ★ ★ ★ ☆ ☆

    It's come back :-( but this time it seems to occur on and off through VTEC from 4000rpm ! The best way to decribe it is while accelerating you can feel the engine pulling then it backs off and then pulling again etc. Any ideas what might cause this ?
     
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  7. Doc Expert Advisor ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

    Matt Peterborough
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    Unless it's bringing up a fault code it might be a hard one to trace. Or it might be something a simple as a blocked air/ vacuum pipe though. If you can get the car to repeat the fault consistently you could try hooking the car up to a data logger that might help isolate the fault.
     
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  8. Rhys Valued Contributor ★ ★ ★ ☆ ☆

    I've found out what is causing it :Smile: low level of oil can cause VTEC to act in this way and tonight I topped it up and gave it a blast and the problem has gone away :Smile: one to know for the future !! I know im going to get all sorts of stick for not checking the level in the first place and usually do but my job has changed and I don't use the car as much anymore so I genuinely forgot to be honest. Will be carrying out a full oil and filter change very soon and I'll be using the how to that some put up not too long ago if I can remember who did it ? I know it was a diygotm. One thing that concerns me is the fact that I poured a litre and a half in and it still doesn't show a level on the dipstick and im worrying that it might not be the correct dipstick for the car (if there is such a thing ?) Or the car is that low on oil ? I'm worried about putting too much in.
     
    Last edited: Thursday 25th Jul, 2013
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  9. AndyB1976 Valued Contributor ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆

    United Kingdom Andy Aberfoyle
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    Hmmm...it takes 4.4ltr for a oil n filter change on the f18,f20 engine. I'm not sure what the lower measure mark is, but it is usually 1ltr between min and max dots. Remember to give the oil time to run down into the sump and new oil will be almost invisible on the dipstick.

    I done this howto, hopefully this can help.

    http://hondakarma.com/threads/5931/
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Sunday 23rd Feb, 2014
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  10. Rhys Valued Contributor ★ ★ ★ ☆ ☆

    Thanks AndyB I will be following your guide for the oil and filter change. Can I ask where you got your filter from and how much was it ? After topping the oil up I ran the engine for a bit and then let it settle for at least 10 minutes before checking the level.
     
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  11. AndyB1976 Valued Contributor ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆

    United Kingdom Andy Aberfoyle
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    Yeah I got it from Holdcroft Honda. I can't remember the price, I think it was about £8-£9 delivered, can't really beat the price tbh unless you want to risk a your engine with a cheapo from elsewhere :Wink:. Get a sump washer too, they cost pennies from Holdcroft you might get it foc with the filter.

    Also the oil filter tool I got from Ebay. Its a 65mm 14flute, the one with the 17mm nut on the end (same size as sump bolt). They go for about a fiver-ish and will make life easier as there is not a whole lot of room amongst the subframe and (mid)driveshaft.
     
    Last edited: Friday 26th Jul, 2013
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  12. Rhys Valued Contributor ★ ★ ★ ☆ ☆

    Just ordered the filter and washer from Holdcroft for the very reasonable price of £9.01 :Smile: now for the tools :-( I don't have a torque wrench so I'll probably end up buying one of them aswell lol.
     
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  13. SpeedyGee Administrator Staff Team

    England Speedy Birmingham
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    You mean torque wrenches (plural) .. one for low range, under 20Nm and one for everything above this :Smile:

    Essential tool though if you want to do the job properly.
     
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    AndyB1976 likes this.
  14. AndyB1976 Valued Contributor ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆

    United Kingdom Andy Aberfoyle
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    The Halfords Pro 8-60Nm one isn't the cheapest nor the most expensive but it does come with a calibration certificate and lifetime warranty. I read a review that said it was easily configured. You just twist the base of the handle to unlock it then rotate the main handle turn the gauge to the relevant setting in ft-lb or Nm then lock the handle. Its recommend to store the wrench with the gauge back down to zero apparently not to stress the spring.

    I've got a couple of useful tools, bought for the 6th Generation and a few howtos done (oil, valves & sparks, pollen filter on here) I have the air and fuel filter howto's done. I am doing the front and rear drop links - hoping to do this painlessly with a 1/2" impact gun and MapPro blowtorch maybe on vid if not certainly a step by step howto. I could not budge one of the nuts soaked in Plusgas even with a DeWalt Dw059 , but 20-30secs with the Rothenberger Superfire2 and MapPro had it off in literally seconds on the rear offside test. Front and rear brake service is also on the cards with an unscientific test on slide pin grease (Castrol Red Rubber or Permatex Silicone Brake Lube - neither recommended by the forum fyi so don't rush out and buy it lol) but won't find out how well it holds up till a year or so down the line. It will be specific to driving style and milage and I'm not heavy on either.

    I just wish I had bought all my gear sooner rather than paying labour and time at the garage. The 6th Generation is a relatively easy car to work on IMO.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Yeah I've got two of the Halfords brand 8-60 and 40-200Nm. Critical not to strip anything and to ensure they are set to the correct torque rather than leaving to guesswork and possible costly misjudgments.
     
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  15. Rhys Valued Contributor ★ ★ ★ ☆ ☆

    I'll have a butchers at them in halfords. Cheers guys.
     
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  16. Rhys Valued Contributor ★ ★ ★ ☆ ☆

    I managed to get one but the halfords one was way out of my budget ! I got a draper one which operates the same way as you have described the halfods one and it also comes with a calibration certificate. :Smile:
     
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  17. SpeedyGee Administrator Staff Team

    England Speedy Birmingham
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    Cool . Whats the range on it ?
     
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  18. avander.uk Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    My car has just done the same after I frew it round a bend only thing is my EML has came on :-( it felt like safety mode n wouldn't rev so dropped a gear and away it went. But my EML is still on though any ideas?
     
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  19. SpeedyGee Administrator Staff Team

    England Speedy Birmingham
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    Best to get the code read and see what that says.
     
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  20. avander.uk Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    Just topped up the oil it was reading empty lol gave it some beans and the light went off. Think al have to keep an eye on it as I've covered nearly 9k in the past 3 months
     
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