Exhaust System Smoke on start up

Discussion in '3rd Generation (2006-2012)' started by Kpn, Sunday 3rd Feb, 2013.

  1. Kpn New Member Getting Started

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    Just wondering if anyone could tell me what is causing blue smoke to emit on start up in the morning. My CR-V is a 2008 diesel and has covered 75k. Full Honda service. It does not appear to be using any oil. Any help would be appreciated.
     
  2. i-DSI Top Contributor ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆

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    Blue smoke should come from oil.
    You don't need that much to get the smoke.
    With turbo diesels it comes most of the time from the turbo bearing. With petrols: valve sealings.
    Reasons: wrong grade of oil (to thick/to thin, both can cause this), not letting the engine warm up after cold start, not let the turbo cool down after a hot ride (most common reasons).
    A little bit of blue smoke only when cold is not dramatic.
     
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  3. RichT Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

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    from
    Smoky Diesel engines. Smoking and Smokey.


     
  4. i-DSI Top Contributor ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆

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    Aah: valve guides. That's the word I was looking for in stead of valve sealings. Thanks.
     
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  5. Ichiban Co-Founder Staff Team

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    What i have seen the i-DTEC car does not emit a puff of smoke on cold start up.. however I have seen them puffing out water vapour which is normal.

    The i-CTDi on the other hand emits it regardless what you do it .Can the i-DTEC owners confirm the same.
     
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  6. TheDarkKnight Expert Advisor ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

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    Yes I can indeed confirm as an i-DTEC owner that there is no smoke at all on start-up. The water ejection varies - its not always there and consequently is nothing to worry about.
     
  7. Kpn New Member Getting Started

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    Thanks for the suggestions, looks like the valve guides, take it will not do any harm
     
  8. rotcat Junior Member ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

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    i had a bit of smoke but nothing to worry about but now i add a 1/200 mix of 2 stroke oil into my diesel tank at each fill up and i feed it nothing but shell v power ,, no smoke quieter and smoother ,, can't tell others what to do but it worked for me. as long as you use mineral or semi synthetic NOT fully synthetic something to do with ash content etc too complicated for me JASO b or C grade if possible.
    don't take my word for it google using 2 stroke in diesel and you will be very suprised i know i was!!!

    I was very sceptical at first but the proof of the pudding shall we say!!!!!!!!!!!!!
     
  9. alloy36 Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

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    I've been getting a puff of blue smoke on my 2004 cdti ever since I bought it 2 years ago. It seems to be quite bad in the summer and almost negligible in the winter. I suspected the valve seals as well. During the summer when it is warmer, I imagine more oil gets into the cylinder as the oil is thinner.

    I've done 40k with this and other than being slightly embarrasing in the summer there have been no problems with the engine.

    IMO its not worth getting it done
     
  10. Ichiban Co-Founder Staff Team

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    Engine which are overfilled will also exhibit smoke puff this so always ensure your engine oil level is bang on! if valve guide were worn they will soon start to puff a lot more.

    I personally won't worry the i-CTDi does this
     
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  11. Primarycare Expert Advisor ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

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    Don't want to jinx it but mine not a puff of smoke when starting
     
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  12. Ichiban Co-Founder Staff Team

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    No two i-CTDi perform the same nor produce the same power delivery. The i-DTEC is more predictable in a standard platform of performance and power delivery.

    You will be fine Keith.
     
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  13. Quacker Banned ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

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    I agree with the bold bit being a turbo-killer. So what are the chances of lots of failed turbos from now on with these 'eco' type diesels that auto-stop/start as a default? I have one and have already got the habit of pressing the cancel button every time I start the engine. Others might consider it to be a 'good thing', which it might well be if mainly used for tootling around town, but then they will have DPF issues instead in all likelihood.
    I love the latest Honda diesel engine and wouldn't consider a petrol version, but is it, or similar rival engines of the current generation, an engine that suits every man and his dog? The kind of person that just wants an appliance?
     
  14. RichT Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

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    Same here. Otherwise, I find that if I know the traffic will be moving in a while, I'm sitting there with the clutch depressed which is not a good habit to get into. I also wondered what effect all the stop/starting will have on the dual mass flywheel - there must be a bit of a shock that goes through the DMF each time the engine starts.
     
  15. i-DSI Top Contributor ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆

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    Hi Quacker, I wouldn't worry about turbo killing with the eco's. The idle stop does not work when coolant temp is high (>110°C). I'm also convinced the materials are different in an idle stop engine than in a normal engine, just as other parts have been adapted: starter, flywheel, battery,... so why should the turbo be forgotten? And as you say: in case you don't want the engine to stop, you push the cancel button. This might be a good choice if you ragged her.
    The Honda 1.6 is no more or less THE reference in its class (torque, fuel economy, driving pleasure...). If this 1.6 diesel doesn't suit you, than please buy a (Honda) petrol :Wink:.
     
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  16. Quacker Banned ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

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    I have the 2.2 diesel in a 2013 CR-V.
    Haven't seen a turbo yet that doesn't need to be idled a while before shut-down. Perhaps these, as well as having forced water-cooling of the bearings after shut-down, also have forced lubrication for a while? But what about thermal stress?
    Besides which it does still warn to idle for at least 10 seconds or up to 30 seconds if hard worked, before shut-down, in the driver's manual. Yet the careless or carefree will come to a halt from high speed, perhaps on the way up a hill, and pull the handbrake, lever into neutral and release the clutch to cause a shutdown, all within a second or two from hard work. My mechanically sympathetic side tells me that this cannot be a 'good thing' and could indeed cause expensive damage.
    I know it doesn't shut down automatically with high coolant temperature but components can be very hot and fast spinning even without the coolant being that hot. I know also that there must be an electric coolant pump [or there should be] to continue cooling the top of the engine and turbo bearing housing after shut-down. If it doesn't have a cooling system that continues to circulate coolant after a shutdown, in my opinion it should have.
     
    Last edited: Friday 22nd Feb, 2013