Suspension, Steering and Brakes Strange Noise when turning left at low speed

Discussion in '7th Generation (2003-2008) [Acura TSX]' started by Heckler, Sunday 19th Jul, 2015.

  1. Heckler Top Contributor ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆

    Found my first problem with the car today... Hadn't noticed it before because it only happens around 10-15 mph and only when turning sharply to the left... Take normal junction and you get nothing, turn it full lock and you get nothing, turn right at any speed and nothing... But turn sharply left around 10mph and you get this odd not quite a squeal and not quite a screech, it's not a mechanical grumbling either. I can't be 100% certain, but it does seem to come from the nearside of the car. I've tried it on full lock, stationary, rocked steering side to side, lock to lock and nothing.

    At first I thought it could be the belt... but why only left and at that speed range.

    Tomorrow or Tuesday I shall investigate further if I can and see if I can record it when it happens... hard to do when driving in the car on your own... I'll check fluid levels and consistency... was gonna change the PSF at some point in the next few weeks anyway... and changing belts is high on the list as service history doesn't indicate when they were last done.

    I just have this horrible flashback to 7 months after I bought the Mondeo and the steering pump seized whilst on holiday in Norfolk and it took 2 days before it could be repaired and cost an arm and a leg as it took out the tensioner when it seized and snapped the belt...

    Any ideas... pretty sure it's not a CV joint or a wheel bearing as I've had my fair share of experience with those and the noises they make are certainly mechanical grinding and grumbling.
     
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  2. DeviateDefiant Co-Founder Staff Team

    United Kingdom Leo Northants
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    I'd take a look at tie-rod ends and drop-links personally. The fact it happens turning only one way makes me think it's suspension related as opposed to the belt or any of the auxiliary components.
     
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  3. Heckler Top Contributor ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆

    Hadn't thought of that... would certainly be a lot cheaper if it was the drop links, and I've changed plenty of those over the years.

    I'll try and get it on a ramp later this week to inspect... I'll check prices, I've always done them in pairs before.
     
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  4. SpeedyGee Administrator Staff Team

    England Speedy Birmingham
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    Also I can't even recall one person on this site having to ever have changed their power steering rack or pump. So unlikely that it's that.
     
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  5. Nighthawk Guest

    United Kingdom Richard Milton Keynes
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    Get the wheels off the floor, and give the wheel a good rock left to right and up and down. I appreciate you don't think its CV joints or bearings but no harm in double checking to be sure.

    If thats the only issue you have found so far on a 10 year old, 160k mile car, I would say thats pretty good going.
     
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  6. Heckler Top Contributor ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆

    @DeviateDefiant @SpeedyGee Been checking out the costs of droplinks and tie rod ends... might get some regardless as they're so cheap. They were a common failure on the old MX6 at the rear, especially if you'd fitted an uprated ARB like I had. No one made uprated droplinks for that car.

    @Nighthawk Will certainly do that, as you say... doesn't hurt to check. But the car runs free and straight... when braking hard, a tiny pull to the left if hands are barely touching the wheel. (not uncommon on most cars). No vibrations at all from 1-80mph, and no creaks or groans from the suspension that I have been able to hear... in fact it's so quite we could hear the wheelchair squeaking in the boot as we drove it home on Friday, we'd not put the brakes on the wheels. :Smile:
     
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  7. Nighthawk Guest

    United Kingdom Richard Milton Keynes
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    I have done some step by step guides for the changing of the droplinks and tie rod ends should you need to refer to them at all
     
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  8. DeviateDefiant Co-Founder Staff Team

    United Kingdom Leo Northants
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    Drop-links are a common replacement every few years, can be sooner or later depending on whether OEM or aftermarket parts were used. Tie-rod ends can easily go 6 figure miles before needing replacement and aren't that common to go at all.
     
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  9. Heckler Top Contributor ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆

    I did manage to catch it on video... but upon loading the video onto my computer... it's go no fricking sound.... GRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR

    Going back and checking other videos... none of them have sound.

    Good job I ordered my new phone at the weekend... it's done me well for four and half years and was way ahead of it's time back then... But goodbye HTC and Hello Moto :Smile:
     
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  10. Nighthawk Guest

    United Kingdom Richard Milton Keynes
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    My missus has my old HTC Sensation and its finally starting to give trouble now with the pixels starting to fail on it, its lasted around 4 years so its not done too bad like yours.

    Why moto though?
     
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  11. Heckler Top Contributor ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆

    I wanted an Android phone, a pure Nexus was out of the question because I refuse to spend that much on a phone, and I don't do contracts and upgrades that tie you into a provider... The Moto G 2nd Generation is almost as pure android as you can get without going Nexus... It's the best phone on the market in the price braket, blows away phones that cost twice as much.

    It's also dual sim... so when I go abroad I can pick up a cheap PAYG sim in whatever country I am in and avoid any roaming charges.. and it has a micro SD card slot... which a lot of builders are leaving out and forcing you to pay more for more capacity. I didn't bother to go for the 2nd Generation 4G version, because where I live... we don't get a 4G signal... half the time I can barely get a decent 3G one... and the phone is hooked up to the wifi here or elsewhere 90% of the time.

    I picked it up for £116 brand new... retail is £150... Amazon still have them at this price and you cannot buy a better phone for that... you can't buy a better android phone that that for less than £250-300.

    I'm a techie... I do my research on these things and I never buy top end, I buy the best value one after comparing prices/features. :Smile:
     
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  12. Heckler Top Contributor ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆

    Update on the noise... I went out for a quite drive this evening... filled up the car and then took the scenic route back home... this was mostly back roads, through villages and average speeds around 20-30mph.

    It's not just happening when I turn right... I'm hearing it when going straight if it started when turning right at low speed... and if you turn to the left just a little... it goes away... I'm also no longer 100% certain it is coming from the front end of the car... and now that I've had a chance to listen to it for more than a couple of seconds... I am starting to hear what could be metal on metal rubbing/scraping.

    I tried testing the brakes to see if applying them made it stop... it didn't, I tried rocking the steering as I drove along a bit of road with a very slight long curve to the right and it came and went. I tried applying the handbrake gently whilst doing a few miles an hour with the noise present... it didn't go away... But like with the brakes, the noise did change pitch and speed as the cars speed dropped... Now I don't think it's a brake issue, but it could point to a wheel bearing or CV joint.

    Tomorrow I will take it to the garage I use and ask them to have a listen to it on a quick drive... see if they can shed light on it... get it on a ramp and give all the wheels and drive shafts a good checking over... or see if they have any other ideas to the cause.
     
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  13. DeviateDefiant Co-Founder Staff Team

    United Kingdom Leo Northants
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    I think a garage will be able to lay this to rest, there's a lot of variables to consider and while we can stab in the dark more at potential causes - that's going to be the fastest route to an answer :Laughing:
     
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  14. Zebster Expert Advisor ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

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    If the noise varies while gently weaving left/right at a constant speed (which it appears to), then my money would be on either a wheel bearing or maybe even a brake pad wear indicator just beginning to contact.
     
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  15. Heckler Top Contributor ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆

    I'm heading down to the garage in about an hour to ask them to take a look at it.
     
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  16. Heckler Top Contributor ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆

    Two mechanics later, and a visual inspection of things.... and both of them said the same thing... Brake pads.

    One commented that one side at the rear was more worn that the other which could indicate a sticky calliper... which is quite common on these cars I understand.... Must be a Japanese thing, because all of my Mazdas had the same issue with rear callipers.

    It was on my list of jobs to do over the next few months anyway... So I'll be ordering some EBC greenstuff pads for front and rear and getting some new discs too... if I can find some decent mintex grooved ones I'll get those, not sure I can stretch to black diamond.
     
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  17. Zebster Expert Advisor ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

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    While I have had to replace both of my rear calipers due to them sticking, more commonly I've found the actual pads to be sticking. A gentle grinding/filing restores the sliding clearance... I now do this annually during the oil change/service.
     
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  18. Heckler Top Contributor ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆

    Didn't go for the greenstuffs in the end, couldn't find them at a sensible price. Rears were fine, but fronts were more than double and I know they're not normally that much of a price difference... and it's pointless using greens on the rear and not the fronts... I even looked at the redstuff... same issue.

    So I settled on Mintex discs and EBC ultimax pads for front and rear. Whole lot cost £135, and the garage I use for little stuff like this will fit everything for £70-80... Local franchise garage chain wanted £180 just for the fronts using gawd knows what parts.
     
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  19. Nighthawk Guest

    United Kingdom Richard Milton Keynes
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    Glad you got them sorted in the end :Thumbup:
     
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  20. Heckler Top Contributor ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆

    Tick another job of the list and problem, solved and cured.

    Replaced brake discs and pads front and rear. Mintex discs, and EBC pads. Went for Ultimax in the end rather than greens due to the cost. Total spend was £206 and that includes all parts and labour. £146 for the parts and just £60 to fit them... First place I ordered rear discs from couldn't tell their arse from their elbow... kept telling me that they were 260mm discs. I kept telling them that was on the saloon and I had the tourer. In the end I cancelled the order and got the locally which cost me an extra £10 but they'd spent so long arguing about which size I should have that they couldn't have delivered them for when I needed them.

    Whilst it was up on the ramp I was able to spot that it's had both rear hubs done... quite recently too as they're still gleaming like new. Slider on the rear drivers was a little sticky, he cleaned it up and greased it thoroughly... but I shall get a spare at some point so I'm prepared. Works fine when reassembled but I'll put it on the list of jobs to do over the next 12 months.

    The noise is a distant memory, and the braking is much, much better. Bites harder and doesn't fade of like it did before.
     
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