Electrical & Lights Top Console LCD Display (Clock/Air Con/Radio) Flickering On or Off

Discussion in '7th Generation (2003-2008) [Acura TSX]' started by Camberwell, Friday 14th Dec, 2012.

  1. Camberwell New Member Getting Started

    UK
    3
    I have had my 2006 I-CDTI Navi Sport saloon for a couple of years and I now have an intermittent fault where the central display flicks on and off as if there is a loose connection. Can anyone please point me in the direction of a set of instructions to remove the central panel of the dash and check the wiring? I took it to my local dealer and after 15 mins they said there was nothing wrong, but I can't believe that they took it apart and replaced everything that quickly! I have googled for several hours and the only info I can find is for American versions which are completely different dashboards!
    Thanks!
     
  2. SpeedyGee Administrator Staff Team

    England Speedy Birmingham
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    Hi Camberwell, why don't pop over to the Introduce Yourself section and say a few words about yourself and your car :Smile::Thumbup:

    I've removed the central console stuff before upto and including the clock cluster.

    It's very similar to how this guys does it 2003-2007 Honda Accord Storage Pocket Removal/Replacement - YouTube Yes thats an American video but the steps are the same.

    You pull the gearbox cover off, then the cig tray then next section up. This is where the video stops but what you need to do to remove the sat nav section is remove the two screws at the very bottom and then just tug the whole thing out. If its never been pulled before it will be sat snug and tight. You'll need to keep tugging the bottom gently. The clock cluster and the whole top section is separate from the sat nav section. After removing the sat nav section I think there's another two screws for the clock cluster before that can be pulled free of it clips.

    However, I think more likely than a loose connection its going to be a circuit issue somewhere.
     
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  3. eternal422 Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    I did an article here on how to remove everything as part of fitting an Xcarlink - it's quite easy to do, but not sure you'll be able to find the cause of your problem easily.
     
  4. Camberwell New Member Getting Started

    UK
    3
    Thanks very much for a great response, I will give it a go. The reason I think (hope!) it's a loose connection is the way the display goes on and off over bumps etc, but I will let you know how I get on!
     
  5. Camberwell New Member Getting Started

    UK
    3
    Thanks, would you happen to have a link?

    - - - Updated - - -
     
  6. rayhoop Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    Keerat Amersham
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    Hi mate, I have the same issue. The to part of the dash comes out easily without taking it the sat Nav etc, you just carefully pry up the to section... The x carlink instal guide tells you how.

    I took mine of once to see if the plug needed resetting... It made no difference. . The white clock unit will need to be removed and opened for investigation. I'm hoping it is just a lose circuit ribbon or something. I need to get round to doing this too.
     
  7. rayhoop Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    Keerat Amersham
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    I took another look at this over the weekend. Once the dash panel is gently lifted off, the clock unit unplugs and unscrews. You can then gently, bit by bit remove the plastic covers.

    You can only get as far as accessing the printed circuit board (PCB). You cannot remove the PCB without a solder iron - and you do not need too.

    The connectors from the LCD unit are soldered onto the PCB. There is a long line of them, about 2 dozen or so pins soldered.

    I found there was a crusty build up between the pins which I suspected of possibly causing a short circuit... resulting in the flicker/dimming of the LCD.

    I cleaned up the connections - admittedly I was a little rough... I just gave them a scrape with a small screw driver... I could not see any other burnt/loose components or points where a short could occur. So I put it all back together.

    The display now stays on a lot longer. It is still not perfect, but it spends more time on than off.

    I'll give it a proper clean tomorrow after work, and take some photos of the process... Hopefully it will fix the issue once and for all.

    Saves paying for new/second hand replacement unit.
     
    SpeedyGee likes this.
  8. Ichiban Founder Staff Team

    England CJ Leeds
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    Uum interesting I will be interested at this.
     
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  9. rayhoop Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    Keerat Amersham
    115
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    I cannot guarantee that this process works for everyone, but my clock is staying on for much longer... but it still eventually flickers when driving over bumps after approx 45 mins of driving. I'm guessing there is a dry/loose joint somewhere. However I do not have the skills or tools to check this (I might get my Father-in-law to take a look).

    Just a quick walk through of the process I followed.

    Carefully pry up the top dash panel up with a small flat head screwdriver and pull the panel up and towards you.
    1.

    2.

    3.

    4.
    If your screwdriver leaves a mark on the soft touch dash - give it a rub with your finger to massage the mark out.


    Unplug the green plug that goes into the clock unit. Remember to press the little clip at the top of the plug to release it.
    Unscrew the 2 philips head screws that hold the clock unit to the panel. These screws are quite short so are quick to remove... be careful not to drop them down the back of the dash board!
    5.

    Carefully unclip the white plastic cover at the back of the clock unit. I used my finger nails - screw driver not required.
    6.

    This presents the top of the PCB.
    7.

    The below photos only show one end of the connections zoomed in... You will need to clean them all (as I don't know which connections relate to the power to the backlight of the LCD).

    Before - there is a build up around the pins.
    8.

    Carefully (I used a large opened safety pin needle) pick away the crust.

    After -
    9.

    Reverse of the process to put it back together.
     
    hondream likes this.
  10. Ichiban Founder Staff Team

    England CJ Leeds
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    I will sort the images for you fella .
     
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  11. jaran Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    Mine sometimes flickers, sometimes not. If i put pressure somewhere close to the clock surface then it stops flickering. But after 15 minutes of driving the "clock display" goes black, always. Thanks for advice. I will try that, thx.
     
  12. rayhoop Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    Keerat Amersham
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    I've not managed to fix it. I have found the colder the day the longer it stays on. As the car (or weather) warms up, the display stops working. It is probably a lose connection/solder joint somewhere.
     
  13. rayhoop Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    Keerat Amersham
    115
    34
    1
    Right

    Im on a mission to fix this. I'm guessing it is a bad feed/loose connection on the backlight power source.
    Does anyone have a wiring diagram for the 7 Gen Exec?

    I was hoping I could study it to figure it out rather than sit out in the cold with a multimeter :Smile:
    Also - I was hoping the diagram might also cover the circuit on the display unit as well, so make it easier to identify the offending pin/soldier joint.
     
  14. Ichiban Founder Staff Team

    England CJ Leeds
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    I will dig it out for you.:Wink:
     
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  15. johnboy69 New Member Getting Started

    United Kingdom johnboy north kent
    4
    have you managed to fix this yet, as i have the same prob too..........
    regards[
    johnboy
    QUOTE=rayhoop;56839]Right

    Im on a mission to fix this. I'm guessing it is a bad feed/loose connection on the backlight power source.
    Does anyone have a wiring diagram for the 7 Gen Exec?

    I was hoping I could study it to figure it out rather than sit out in the cold with a multimeter :Smile:
    Also - I was hoping the diagram might also cover the circuit on the display unit as well, so make it easier to identify the offending pin/soldier joint.[/QUOTE]
     
  16. stratos Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    Andy Worcs
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  17. rayhoop Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    Keerat Amersham
    115
    34
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    Sorry gents, I've not solved this one either.
    My father-in-law and I were going to attack this with a magnifying glass (to look for dry joints) and a multimeter, but didnt get round to it.

    My car is up for sale now anyway... so :Sobbing:
     
  18. Ichiban Founder Staff Team

    England CJ Leeds
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    sad you had a good run with the old girl what replacements have you got in mind ?
     
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  19. rayhoop Club Member ★ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

    Keerat Amersham
    115
    34
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    posted in the general section :Smile:

    PS - I never did receive the workshop manual. Guess it must of gone missing in the post
     
  20. Ichiban Founder Staff Team

    England CJ Leeds
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    Wow I sent it for sure.. Now I have lost a genuine cd ... Grrrr it does matter now does if.
     
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